GTScotT

The exit of the HKS dump is 70mm from memory. Redo that to be something a little nicer than what youve got, yours looks more like 65mm ID, even if it were 68mm it could potentially hold back a lot of power. The other issue is the flexi intake pipe, its GOT to be an issue. Redo both ASAP. You WILL need a retune.

Alex, what have you changed since your car last ran well? I remember your car ran fine when you took me in it last. I would say the major component you have changed is the ECU. The ECU is in control of all the components and the readings that would be telling Yavuz that its wrong would be coming from the ECU (RPM signal etc). I have a strong feeling that your ECU could be a dud. Perhaps water damaged? It was 2nd hand from memory..

I prefer to use NEO oils in all cases, the NEO gear oil requires an additive to fine tune the LSD slip amount when used with any LSD application. The oil itself makes for a very harsh LSD experience. Perhaps the oil you are using is similar, maybe you can try changing the oil or try an additive. Maybe try mix 1 part dextron into 2 part of gear oil (30ish%) and see if they frees it up a touch.

How about you do this: Front mount $550 self installed Hypergear hiflow $1000 self installed JJR bellmouth front and dump $179 self installed Z32 AFM and plug 2nd hand $250 self installed Toshi remap $700 230rwkw (Toshi has stated this is doable with the above without injectors) If you changed your mind down the track you could onsell the turbo and dump with the ecu to match (as anyone will be able to use these). Your monetary loss will be low in this case, maybe under $1000 considering what the turbos go for 2nd hand. So thats under $3000 and your car should be quite substantially faster, and less regrets. Best part is it will look the same as it does now except with a FMIC. GL

If it was built right it should last as long as your usage implies. If you pump your -5s to max capacity and run it on the knifes edge on the track every day of its life, you will get about as long a life span as you would any other race motor before it needs rebuild (not very long at all). Yet if you were to daily it and take exceptional care of it I anticipate it would possibly last as long as a factory built motor. I would probably change that N1 oil pump to a Nitto or JUN item though, that is the weakest link at present.

From memory I read the autospeed article about changing the GTR turbos and thought the overall result was less than mediocre. They port matched the manifolds and ran -7s IIRC. Most people on here acheive close to the numbers you want without touching the manifolds, thus I would simply follow suit. I have always wondered though, which turbos come with the cut size T25 flange and which come with the full size T25.... I would IMAGINE the full size flange to be on something -10 size or possibly even the -5s. Can anyone confirm? Running a full size T25 entry turbine housing on the stock manifolds would definitely warrant porting IMHO.

Found, thanks.

Have also got one. Is complete from rocker covers to sump. Can also provide CAS, ECU, AFM and most sensors if needed. Comes with intake and exhaust manifolds (turbo model). PM me your number.

I also have one in good RUNNING condition. Came out of my car for purpose of a conversion. PM me to discuss if above falls through.

This is my actual job, I work on cases like yours as a profession (claims officers). Realistically your issue here is that you probably do not have insurance (silly you). Insurance basically works on 2 key elements; honesty and a balance of probabilities. Her story would be that you tried to overtake her on the oncoming side of the road, where as yours is that she was pulled to the far left and you were passing to her right. The balance of probabilities would make it more reasonable to assume that you were overtaking to her right rather than she was turning right from the left lane. The other element to take into considertion are road rules. Without having my road rules PDF handy I cannot confirm, yet there would be a number of rules for the insurer to fall back on in stating that the circumstances put you at fault. Not supposed to overtake to the right of a vehicle that is indicating to turn yada yada. I know you said she was not indicating, however her story would say otherwise. It is more reasonable to assume the person making a turn would be indicating to do so rather than her not indicating and the poor guy overtaking to her right being the victim lol. (key words "overtaking to her right", the photos are of a single lane road with provision for parked vehicles - read the road rules). Its a hard cold world, buy comprehensive insurance and the worst you will EVER have to endure again is your policy excess. Its that simple. Pay the excess, insurer fixes your car NO MATTER WHAT. Driving is a risk, just need to accept it and move forward. Unfortunate that in this case the circumstances are not in your favour, better luck next time. FYI being a P plater is usually a non issue for an insurer, we hardly take it into consideration (its neither fact nor probable). The best you can hope for is EBO (each bare own). Argue your point enough and atleast the insurer will be able to see your story as "reasonable" and determine that either could have happened. This is good as they will not pursue you for monies for their loss. You will not need to pay for the damage to the bad ladies car nor will you need to lodge a claim if you have third party insurance. Instead she will need to pay her excess to get her own vehicle repaired. GL

200 prototypes is quite the number, I wonder what becomes of all these known prototypes... The heartbreaking thing about new car development is bringing them to THIS country... ADR states a vehicle built overseas must be brought in for ADR testing. Once passed and cleared the test model must be destroyed in full by means of crushing. I got to sit in the Red GTR brought in by Gibson motorsport a few weeks before it got the crush apparently they were trying to work out a deal where it could become a track only vehicle yet apparently it was not worth the effort. FYI commonwhores do not need to be crushed once tested Piss ant red necks get to have theirs I guess, the price of being superior is that our first born must die lol. Lol anyway interesting read, cheers.

Do not turn your hobby into a chore, that is the most important thing I can say. Good mechanics are hard to come by, because the majority of them end up hating what they thought they would love. Buying a business is a great idea, yet you should look into a well established franchise and you should try to go it with a partner, preferably a wife or your dad. Good franchises these days are places like Subway and Easyway. Theres 2 of each in both Liverpool and Parramatta westfields and the places RAKE it in. Theres basically an Easyway ever 5 mins walk on George St in the city and, you guess its, they are all busy.

Hey guys, Need the input shaft bearing cover. Its the cover that has the knob for the clutch fork bolted to it. If anyone has a toasted gearbox lying around I will reward you a reasonable sum for the front cover, or I can take the whole box and turf it for you. Must be from an S13 SR20 5 speed box OR any other known compatible part. PM ME to organize. Thanks!

Turbo the DE with a minor alteration to an off the shelf intercooler kit, stock exhaust manifold and your selection of turbo. I would say under 300rwkw to be maintained for reliability. I would aim for 260rwkw from a GT3071R .82 IW on 14psi.

With that sort of car the tyre size you run is not sensitive. I would either stick to the OEM size to suit the coupe (being essentially the same car) or I would alter the size based on fitment. To clear any question you might have, cars that have sensitive tyre sizes are things such as AWD. Your car is RWD and as such doesnt matter too much if you run different sizes front to rear etc.

CHRA means something like cartridge housing rotating assembly. It hasnt got anything to do with being oil or water cooled. T25 is a 'loose' term for the type of turbo in question.. They are infact a GT25 of some form, the exact part number for a R32 GTR evades me.. As for having them rebuilt with steel turbines and a 360 degree thrust bearing, this should make them good for 20psi (as a rough figure). How much boost they actually make power too is anyones guess as they have been rebuilt and we do not know the exact specs. The same goes for how long they will last.. They could potentially have been rebuilt shit and die on you prematurely.

Do not just keep throwing money at it. Find a real mechanic if you cannot get the thing to work. You have not mentioned anything about the motor itself. What sort of head work do you have to support 292x10.25 cams and what sort of motor have you got that would do the 10,000rpm those cams imply? If the answer is none you have some major issues. I am horrified of the thought of this thing.. I would personally put pencil to paper and plot exactly what I want from it and the setup I anticipate will get me there. I would then pull the motor out and strip it back to a long motor, refitting only parts that suit what I have set out to plan. No number of band aids, double sided tape, sikaflex or zip ties will stop cut wrists from bleeding out. Get onto a real fix, maybe even start your own thread in the members ride section to properly introduce yourself and the car so you may start an active discussion to help your cause. It honestly does sound like you have a hungry money pit, see below.

Hi Yoda, welcome to SAU. Can you please explain what you are actually trying to say? I gather you are trying to say your skyline came with a HKS turbo, which you found to have GARRETT markings. This is fairly normal however the tag ID no and markings from the front and rear housings would help us determine what turbo you have. Cheers,

If you plan to run E85 and 35psi I think you will be VERY happy.

+1 to 3 months. If your fuel is beyond 3 months old you should drain and replace. I do not recommend running it and letting it out the drain if it is say 6 months old. You are risking blocking the injectors.

I have one in near new condition sitting in the garage.. I would like to hear what your thoughts are on what the thing could be useful for. It is the 3576 with the IW T4 TS housing.

I also had a set done by cef1ie and found them to work fine. Later sold them to another member and never heard back on a complaint. Cef1ie also ran the same thing in his own car to great results. In the end I got a set of injectors back with one hole rather than 4, so it seems consistent with what was mentioned in the thread above.

From the mouth of one of NSW best known CAMS officials, raising the bonnet hinders cooling ability. As Paul said the windscreen is a high pressure zone and would alter the airflow through the engine bay while having it propped up. This should be changed back to normal however I do not think this is the source of your problem. I believe you have airlock in your head (poorly bled). The other thing I have seen with alloy radiators are the tubes expanding and not letting any air through.. While they still flow fine they do jack all for cooling. I have generally seen cheap alloy rads to SUCK at cooling regardless. Recommend swapping to stock radiator (for test) and being very careful while bleeding coolant. GL

Hypergear highflow. Send him your turbo and tell him you want atleast 270rwkw. Take your car to a tuner and get it retuned. This is almost your only option.

Check plugs and check your idle control valves. My money is on idle control valves. The problem will be exagerated if you do not use stock BOV's.