GTScotT

As above, just to confirm that the 3037S core is the same as the garrett item. Both the 52 and 56 trim CHRA can be purchased new from GCG. The unique items added to the turbo by HKS are the housings. If you were to pick up a busted 3037S WITH THE HOUSINGS for the right price, provided you can still use the housing (not damaged when the turbo blew) you will be able to replace the CHRA with ease. Both 56 and 52 trim versions available from GCG for under $1400 retail: http://www.gcg.com.au/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=161&category_id=28&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53 http://www.gcg.com.au/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=231&category_id=28&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53

I am sure you are aware, yet see this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347726-kando-dynamics-turbo/

I will say two things to all of you: The Kando dynamics/Kinugawa turbos actually seem to be an excellent product, especially when looking at the price. The T67 in question provides results inbetween a 3076 and 35R for response and power, cant go wrong for under $1000 delivered. If it fails it is simply a T3 flange turbo that you can replace with a garrett (yet it has been said research found ZERO reported failures on multiple forums). The second thing I will say is to OP, while the Kando turbos are excellent etc, please DO NOT be a tight arse. GL

High flow your stock turbo for about a thousand bucks, then get it retuned. 250rwkw from your current 190ish. You will have it all done for about $2000. Anything else will cost you twice as much at a minimum. Spending say $4000 will net you 270-330rwkw, any more will require more money (your injectors are maxed at this point). This would be with a 3071/3076/3582 garrett.

Yep, unfortunately the HKS 2835 kit has been discontinued.. You should still be able to source the 2835KAI kit which would actually not break the bank (in relative terms) compared to the GCG GT30 route. Speed cost dollars (and at times much more) unfortunately

Definitely under budgeting and poor part selection. To start with, do not buy top feed injectors with intention to do an AM rail. This only works when using a Greddy style forward facing plenum. The stock plenum will foul top feed injectors. You will need side feeds OR to highflow your stock items as 10WRB has said. Contact CEF11E on this forum regarding highflowing your injectors, he knows his work. As for how to do the job and how to budget for it.. I would do it like this: A GCG 3076 or 3071 kit for $2950. The turbo on its own is normally about $1700 new, the other $1200 is towards all your fittings such as lines and spacers, new studs etc. The kit also comes with a dump pipe that meets with the stock position front pipe. This kit comes with the CORRECT GARRET .82 turbine housing. The kit you are describing with a turbo for $1100 would have no rear housing, and an AVO housing is roughly $700. The AVO housing will have difficulty holding the right amount of boost and will struggle to make the power this turbo is capable of (as stated 250rwkw instead of the 300 its capable of). The GCG kit comes with THE RIGHT GEAR and is reasonably priced. Link: http://gcg.com.au/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=538&category_id=56&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53 From here you will need the following: Intake pipe custom made $200 (reasonable expected cost) Front pipe (if you dont have one already - one piece front and dump will need to be replaced if you have this) $300 Highflow cat (if you dont have already) $400 Intercooler pipes will meet up as the GCG kit comes with the silicon bend The turbo will now be on the car and running. Now you will need: Injectors $150-300 to highflow, $400-1200 to purchase sidefeeds (700+cc recommended) ECU I would go a toshi remap $700ish to be safe - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/210097-power-fc-and-remap-ecu-road-tune-and-dyno-tune-available-in-sydneysending-to-other-state-and-over-seas-also-abailable-now/ Z32 AFM $300 if you shop around BNEW and then a R31 or VL AFM plug from pick and dont pay less (aka pick and pocket) So theres your round $5000 or more. By the time you get a few extra niggly bits here and there too, its well and truly over that amount. Another thing to note, if you opt to purchase the turbo elsewhere (not liking the $2950 price tag from GCG) prepare for the costs to add up very quickly when trying to source all the bits. You can get the lines and silicon bend sorted for around $300 on ebay, however the dump pipe will cost atleast $500 to $1000 depending on who you have make it for you and at what quality. The GCG kit is a reasonable price, do not overlook it. If you really are tight on money, consider this option: Hypergear hiflow (can get one made to do 270rwkw) $900-1200 Hiflow injectors $300 Toshi remap $700 Z32 AFM $300 One piece front and dump $179 from justjap (if you dont have one already) Cat $200 (3" ceramic catco from justjap) Theres $3000 tops and you will get your 270rwkw. It will not be the SAME 270rwkw, it will have different delivery and the debate about which is better still rages, however it will certainly equate to a decent and FAST car. I am pretty sure this is the 4th time I have written such a post.. Maybe a guide is in order for the turbo FAQ section (mods let me know if you want this done - im happy to write something up with links and results).

Dont sell the car and become a miserable prune forever. You will resent your new wife and your family in 5 years time when your only pass time is the gardening. Do yourself and your relationship the favour and keep the car. As stated already, be sensible about how much money you spend on it Just drive the thing and maintain it. Put a small amount of money asside here and there for things you want to do to it. Take your wife out in it on sundays to nice places and make her appreciate the fact you have it, like you do. Simple!

Hey mate, What sort of skyline are you after? Prices vary wildly between an R32 GTST and an R34 GTR. See www.carsales.com.au for accurate pricing on a skyline from here. Keep in mind the car will be RHD. Registration costs are roughly $1000pa. Exporting the vehicle back to Germany may cost you as much as the purchase cost of the vehicle itself. The question then comes down to, are your motives to come to Aus mainly based on your skyline dream? And are you not better off purchasing a local skyline there in Germany? The cars are quite common in the UK and as with all cars in the UK would be dirt cheap in comparison to Aus. Aus car prices are usually ridiculous compared to the rest of the world. Call it $20-25,000 for a R32 GTR, $25-35,000 for a R33 GTR and $40-100,000 for an R34 GTR. Obviously pricing is highly dependent on model, such as V-spec etc. An R32 or R33 GTST will cost you roughly $10,000 and an R34 GTT will cost $15-17,000. Tunning costs in Aus are also fairly ridiculous and most "fun" things to do with a car carry a prison sentence. Import and export of a vehicle can cost up to $10,000 by the time you pay duties and shipping costs. The UK is a far more sensible option, assuming the whole RHD and LHD option suits your situation (not sure which you use or what you would get out of the UK). Good luck!

Just like last year, and the year before, and the year before, and the year before, and the year before, lol. Just kidding, happy new year mate

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347726-kando-dynamics-turbo/page__st__40 Basically based off post #58 on page 3. Not exactly Hard info, but a reliable source. Keeping in mind the new billet hype is based on different wheel technology. The new Garrett range has full blades, no half blades, and is a much deeper designed wheel than the cast items. It would only make sense that buying a 25g wheel in a different material would not boast necessarily insane results. What would be interesting though is the 11 blade T67 turbine coupled with a GTX71 compressor custom turbo anyone?

Get this in NSW and I would quit my job to support him. Most of the laws are all well and good, yet you cannot lock someone up for doing 200k in a 50 zone when you pursued him for 200k in the 50 zone for over 20 minutes. P plater, experienced driver, Police officer, race driver, any of the above, if someone walks infront of your car at those speeds there is nothing you can do. Common sense in that someone might not be in the right frame of mind would prevail in all cases. Not only have I witnessed first hand the exact above scenario, however 2 weeks later have seen the exact same cop pursue a 16yo in a stolen corolla for over an hour TO HIS DEATH. Enough said, I wont start to harp.

Very sorry for your loss mate, if anyone is reading out there who may know ANYTHING I just wanted to highlight the above. Best of luck mate, hope it turns up in the same condition it left

Interesting opinion here, as the HKS 2835 vs the Garrett 3071 is merely some cropping action. Obviously they have trimmed the OD and kept trim the same, yet have achieved the same goal. I find that by results, the 2835 clearly gets higher shaft speed with less gas, and does not seem to limit total flow capacity. Seemingly opposite to the above theory.. Yet in my mind smaller trim (regardless of OD) would result in better response in most cases. Perhaps it could go both ways, and capability of each would be highly dependent on application (I use the word application in a very broad sense).

No offence intended, however I believe this would be a horrible setup. I think the AVO housing is a fantastic idea for GT2871 52T to make a GTRS competitor, however I believe the housing too compact to take full advantage of a GT30 sized turbo (especially with 500+ HP of flow). Personally the most I would run through one would be a 3071 core with a T04B front cover, however I do think that also would be a great option. Keep in mind that a GTX3076R has more flow than a 3540 on paper, it essentially is the replacement to the 35R. Ofcoarse the debate at hand (which is yet to really fire up) is will they really push the extra air while being as responsive as their predecessors. I will save my opnion for now as I am still pondering, however it was said in another thread that similar tech was applied to trust turbos some time ago with negligable results (not sure if it was simply a billet wheel or if the wheel was milled deeper and with different blade design as these are). It really is very hard to compare a GTX to an older GT knowing the only similarity to the older wheel is the OD. Food for thought.

-9 will be better than stock in all forms. From there get cam gears and a retune, the cam gears are essential to your cause. Result will be more power and better response.

Not sure if it was unclear earlier, Z32 and 700cc injectors sold. still have stock AFM and ECU available for S1 R33

Despite all the garbage, has anyone considered maybe he is single spinning?? A worn viscous LSD will generally slip when less load is applied, IE loose surface or when the wheel speed is close enough to engine speed for it not to load up. Lighter load on a worn or slipping LSD could see if flare 1 wheel on that sort of power (admitedly not alot). Try buying a $1 shim from nissan and popping it in.

Hey guys, Very sorry for ignoring my thread for so long, possibly best to PM in future. Geabox is now sold, clutch and flywheel assy still available. Long motor still available. Stock shocks and springs in regular old condition, pics available - no obvious leaks or anything and they drove fine. RSR springs were actually for an R34 and dropped the car to a good height. I have a photo of the front of my car if still interested (with the RSR's fitted)

I suggest you contact Toshi on this forum about resolving the matter. He can put the right chip in it and remap it to suit your setup. Despite people saying remaps are crap there are no negative results from Toshi and plenty of people use him.

Indeed. Now back me up on the split vs single entry lol

Split pulse housing on single entry manifold as per post 3. Considering the ports off the head arent perfect and we have well and truely established that the turbo flange is wrong, I am willing to put money on it that this is the issue. I would go throw that chinese made POS back at GCG and get the real deal. If it was them who sold you the turbo with the manifold you should seriously flame them (though I would just cut my loses and move on). Im not sure how many times I have harped on about this, yet on an basic SR, I saw a 76mm test pipe mated to a 80mm system stop the motor from making any more than some pathetic number.. Popped an 80mm cat on and hey presto pushing over 200rwkw instantly.

I dont know why anyone has not realised yet, but I believe this is definitely the problem. You have an open frame T4 manifold with a split pulse T4 turbine housing, the entry to the turbo has a serious restriction in it. As does the manifold if it doesnt like up perfect. I think you should ditch whatever manifold that is and switch to a 6boob immediately, you have 400kw to crack.

The roof was off within 2 or 3 minutes and we did the majority of work on one disk. Once the roof was off we cut the thing in 2 in another 10 minutes, within the hour the rear end was a rusted shell and all the HO related parts were in the back of the van. The front was sectioned and stripped over the course of the remainder of the day, which was mostly mechanical and fiddly bits (trying not to damage the stuff that makes it what it is).

Under a grand, get one and pop it on your car lol Weve seen you go thru the paces trying to find a turbo you like (back to a 35R I see)

I am assuming Simon's last post is a video... and Im stuck at work with no F'ing youpoop access... GRRrrrrrr