GTScotT

Scrub a dub dub. Fronts would work with a serious lip and pull of the guards, rears are closer to a No unless you dont mind pumping with a bit of a flare. If your into any sort of serious driving these will not suit you. Look for something roughly the same size yet 30ish offset.

Yep, XW GT phase 2 HO. Bogans around the nation would be in cheers and tears all the same. For the record the 9" grinder wasnt for ease of disposal, it was a salvage operation of a car that had not moved since 1981.

Hi all, Yes, it is what the photos imply. Genuine. Say goodbye, Begin!

Long motor $600, No offers, Good motor, Taking up space, Come and get it.

Stripey horse, seeing as you are going to need a custom manifold anyway.. Why dont you get something like the GTPumps 20g SL2 and get a 6boob with no gate attachment and an evo flange? Response on that would be balistic and you should net the higher region of 2xxrwkw A link: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item3f0595cb7e I have driven these on evos.. They are scary. I dare say a J-pipe would suffice and would be CHEAP too. Like this: http://cgi.ebay.com....=item1c17f04f9e It would obviously not need a gate.. Can be low mounted.. And can be made a lot cheaper than his price. Keep in mind stock manifolds can support over 300rwkw.

I am on the figure side of the fence, more than the percentage. I also think a car with 150rwkw would be losing more than a car with 400rwkw. Simply that the drag becomes negligible against the power at a certain level. But hey that could also work in opposite.. The higher the power the more load on components and the more mechanical drag... Who honestly knows, yet a "rule of thumb" for a power figure in loss is probably the most reasonable way to look at it.

I honestly cannot hear valve float in your video, however you are well beyond the known point for stock valve springs.. So I would change these and save the heartache later. To get to your powergoal I would agree with what has been advised as is: Run a fuel surge tank, lift off your existing walbro then 2 x pumps up the standard line. Completely new TBE. 4" dump minimum and 3.5" catback minimum. More boost. A proper intercooler (not a generic china item). - my addition If the above doesnt work for you.. you know a change of turbo SHOULD be the trick (assuming you dont just have a dud motor). Be it myself chasing 400+rwkw (550rwhp), my turbo choices would be T04Z, GT3788 and GT4088. I think the T04Z is the safest option, it is documented to death on this forum... Give the search a wurl. I honestly know Nothing about your current turbo.

Simon, if possible, can we see a few "private road" videos? Would love to see the delivery I anticipate from this bit of magic.

Wasnt it fineline who pushed 400 tops from a 35R on E85? There has to be more than luck involved in the difference between US and Aus results.. Guys over in the US seem to get great results while we seem to make them look pretty boring. At present I am thinking the T67 is the better option to the 35R.. I guess as these become more popular we will find out.

lol @ live with 550rwhp on dynojet - funny guy. I really want to note here that your current supporting setup is lacking for 550rwhp, and it is possibly what is holding you back at the moment, as has been said already. I believe the cost to benefit ratio between hitting an actual 550rwhp and swapping turbos to max out your current setup may weigh heavily in the smaller turbo department. I forsee selling your turbo and a retune could see costs under $2000 with all things considered... Where as supporting changes to see 550rwhp could easily be double. As stated also, the car is light and having it on power sooner (and with similar power to what you have currently) could be an awesome change for the best. Have you seen: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347726-kando-dynamics-turbo/ That turbo seems to be of 35R power and has been seen to produce 3076 type response (in posts by Status with 180rwkw[250rwhp] by 4000rpm from memory)... It also costs under $1000 AUD delivered.

hmm the drop in boost is from roughly 23psi down to 21psi, so nothing major. I think that is one epicly good turbo by all results I have seen, and I have no doubts in reliability. The power seems to exceed what is typically seen of a 35R, and DARE I SAY the response seems to be also better.. These must have been an amazing turbo when new (however many decades prior), its anyones guess why they werent all that popular. Big ups Simon! You deserve congrats for pioneering the home grown kando! (yes we do know status was probably the first to post results from one of these and thank you to him also) I think I will definitely be joining you on the T67 side soon, we shall see the gap between the RB and the JZ Meet you in SA or NT for some fun when my crap is together, WOO

Put it this way, you have the pick of the bunch as far as the "stock" item goes. If you really want to keep the thing stock, its fair to say you have the better one (honestly not by much). Yet if you decide to high flow, that is the better rear housing to work with.

Looking at a stock engine bay on a VL turbo, I would personally tackle the job by means of an off the shelf VL cooler kit along with the addition of some cleverly positioned silicon joiners. It appears just about everything is in the right spot, just needing to extend or reposition a couple of sections to suit the difference in motor/intake design and the same for the turbo (comp housing as stated and position). Was a decent question IMO, simple resolve too. Best of luck.

For price of a GOOD cat worth running on a sub 350rwkw car: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16441&cat=&page=1 As for jjman's comment, police in NSW call an EPA van to attend and within an hour your vehicle will need to be towed. The fine is issued by the EPA, not by NSW police.

Hi Charlie, I recommend you go down one of two paths. The first being that you read as much as you can on this forum before making any form of decision or asking conclusive questions, and two.. If you cannot be bothered to do the reading, simply state how much power you want or how fast you want to go along with how much money you want to spend and go see a local reputable performance mechanic. WIthout a reasonable knowledge of cars and motors OR a will to take a great deal of time learning, using a good mechanic is your absolute best option. GL

This. Agreed you cannot tune out the issue, but you can centainly try to change the mixture so the smell is not so evident. Either way I think it is a silly idea, just put a damn cat on or wear the risk.

I have been of the understanding that it was $15,000 for the last decade, unless times have changed. It will be a circumstantial penalty, depending on your situation. Yet do you really want to take the risk? And do you really want to leave noobs with the impression they may just get a defect notice? Obviously it is the owners decision, yet a well known POOR one at that. A few KW really isnt worth the hassle. A screamer on the other hand

he wants to tune out the smell from a decat exhaust. the only way to do that is by changing the mixtures, which would alter the motors tune etc. not advisable. if you want to run decat you will need to wear the risk of $15,000. pretty much end of story. otherwise you are welcome to lose 3kw and run a decent cat for the price of an extra $400 FYI $15,000 > $400

Guys, keep in mind the 2835 has a cropped exhaust wheel. The CHRA might be the same original unit but it is in no way the same nor can it be considered the same as a final product. Cropping the rear wheel can be all the difference regardless of what the dyno says. Those HKS turbos DO make for special results. The on road effect seems to be amazing, do some youtube.

Turbotech controller or bust, the turbo smart ones are just bleed valves. The turbotech is ball and spring, it is so good I refuse to buy another EBC until I need to run stupid levels of boost.

Yes I do believe grass is green. I would also go the more responsive option of the two. No I am seldon found to be of 'fanboy' material. By no means does the housing AR indicate which of the two would be more "responsive". My comment was based on peak output ONLY. You said it outperforms in all ways, I just wanted to clarify that the .82 garrett will match in peak power (some people may not be able to justify the additional outlay for the HKS item). I think if you reference the member "Usmair" for their results using the .82IW, you will see the response is also good, just not quite 2835 range. That thread was quite well documented from memory, tuned by unigroup so results were genuine.

While I would love to agree with you (for once), the GT3071R in a gated .82 has been known to produce peak figures on par with the 2835. From what I have seen the crop in rear wheel results in a much harder hitting boost threshold, I would say that is the lower RPM shaft speeds more than anything. But by results they DO seem to make similar figures.. A proper garrett .82 will do the 290kw mark.

Agreed the GTX3071 looks excellent in theory, yet I believe the theory behind cropping the turbine wheel is the opposite. I believe HKS crop the wheel to get higher shaft speed at lower exhaust gas flow. The full rear wheel would allow for more outright flow. If Brads Mate's theory is correct then we could all build HKS killing combos with 3037 proS rear housings on Garrett 3071s (or in this case GTX3071 WOO). There is one person I know who would be able to confirm...

www.nengun.com is your best bet. So far we are unsure about the "KAI" kit and recommend the regular "GT2835 proS", not the one listed as "KAI".

Guys, to note.. It has been shown many times that the .63 housings on these turbos (and when matched to RBs) are very hit and miss. I have seen a few that have responded in a decent way yet most will have boost control issues OR excessive heat control issues. My own brother has an issue with a 3076 and a .63 glowing white hot at 18psi. You also seem to limit yourself to roughly 250rwkw before things go pear shaped. These results are not to be confused with a .63 35R.... Strangely the 35R with .63 can be used to a completely different application and powerband. This is related to the trapping efficiency of the turbine wheel (open enough to allow gas to bypass the wheel when the housing maxes out). islade, I respect the fact you state you have screwed around enough now... As such I am only willing to recomend ONE option to you, 2835. The HKS 2835 kit is tried and tested as one of the most balistic sub 300kw turbos around. Be it myself still with an RB, I would definitely be buying one of these. The kit from new would come with all fittings, you would simply need to bolt it with the other off the shelf support parts you would expect. Viva la BS fast skyline. Let it be known, I am of the opinion the HKS housings outflow the garrett equivilants a substantial amount. HKS all the way (and kando T67 for me).