GTScotT

A few things you need to clarify: Under what conditions does it over heat? What "thick as" radiator do you have and did it have the problem before you put this in? What intercooler are you running? Have you bled the system correctly? Have you done a comp test? Have you done a co test on your radiator? Fill in the above to proceed, thanks.

Someone find me a 1JZ 6boob for the right price and we will see how deep the rabbit hole goes

If the 2530 is working well for you then stick with it. HKS put a lot of engineering into those turbos to begin with. The 2871 will result in a fair amount more lag and pull UP TO 250kw, but no guarantees. Friends have had 2871 (GTRS) powered SR20s and they honestly werent faster than the 200kw cars running regular T28s or Disco's (2860RS) around the streets. Sure enough from say 5500 and up it made a fair amount more, yet the down low where the SR usually shines was suffering. SR's make good torque and rip through the rev range, I would want to stick with a turbo that accentuates that character. Your 2530 is probably quite on the mark. GL

Do these come in men's?

5PSI is stock boost without the solenoid plugged in.

Here is my list of things to do: Remap $350 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Po...ad-t210097.html High flow turbo $880 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hy...Hi-t313313.html Fuel pump $130 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wa...ps-t322242.html Grand total of $1460 You will have much better reliability out of the turbo once you highflow it, and toshi is rather good at maxing out stock ECU and AFM. Remember to get the remap done LAST and be very accurate with telling him your mods. Alternatively you could spend $1100 on a nistune and $130 on a walbro or $200 on a bosch = $1230 or $1300 respectively I know what id be doing, its small change for the additional benefits.

Looks real to me, that sort of thing is honestly not uncommon lol. Just funny to see it done to a 100K car. "Most advance technology" - LOL

Same.

rolls for teh lolls

As you have stated, there is no need. A good tune will be economic when you are light on the throttle and have the power when you boot it. Running multiple tunes would suit running different fuels (as mentioned above) or in a dedicated track car where the team may want to switch between tunes for different tracks/setups. Stick the the one tune, goodluck with it

You will need to dismantle it and try and use a tap kit on the top piece, then replace the adjustment screw (any bolt same thread similar length will do). Short of this you could try to drill and tap it for a larger bolt. I often say this, but if the question needed to be asked maybe its not the job for you. Honestly no offence intended, I just dont think there would be anyone specific that would be able to do it for you. Perhaps take the bov down to a mechanic, I dont see them charging over $100 MAX.

Disco, get the bloody JJR bell mouth. The end. I will personally contribute $10 towards it if you do. Anyone else?

Does it have a dump and front pipe along with a high flow cat? If not, please see the below before chopping or changing your existing cat back http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...cat=&page=1 http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...cat=&page=1

They will be fine. Seen this a few times before, particularly on non-bb units (my fav). Run a quality oil once they are back on the car and it will balance back out. As long as you dont have shaft play theres nothing to worry about here. GL

If he bought this turbo by accident I would recommend him to see you about the above. However, seeing as its $700 and he hasnt bought it yet, I am sure your CHRA wont cost under $1000 which is around what this turbo is worth new genuine from garrett. A .63 non gated one went for $1000 recently on this site I believe, brand new also. Another thing to note which is yet to be covered, OP stated he assumes it will spool similar to factory. I would like to put on the record that a GT35 of any sort will not spool anything like factory. While I have plenty of faith in them the best description for it compared to factory (in lamens terms) would be laggy. Consider a highflow if you have the stock turbo at home, they are good when on a tight budget. Hypergear can help. If money is not an issue, think "setup" rather than "bolt on" and go for the good sheit.

TBE, boost controller, ecu. If this isnt enough start thinking about thousand$.

Mitsubishi have had internal waste gate twin scroll turbos since the Evo 4. Nothing new, but still cool.

Its a truck turbo and its going to cost you lots of money to put it on only to find out its rubbish for what you want to do. Get hypergear to make you a 300rwkw highflow and bolt it back on.

Definitely intercooler or BOV related issue IMO. You have either popped off a pipe, split joiner or broken the BOV. Should start trouble shooting.

Consider this also: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...cat=&page=1 Much cheaper and will work just as good for a stock turbo. There will come a time that the stock turbo will bore you and the chances are you will want something like a garrett, which your expensive HKS dumps wouldnt work with. With the cheaper pipe your losses are much less in that case.

I would say it was a case of wrong gear rather than wrong pedal. Very sorry to hear, RIP. As stated in your last thread that disappeared, if you need any insurance advice please PM me.

As stated, it really does depend on your goals. There is a thread I think all RB20 owners should read before giving up on the motor. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bo...20-t330619.html Personally Im not an RB25 fan boy. I think the lag limitations of the RB20 keep it grounded as far as usable and reliable power goes. I personally am a fan of Roy's results, and I think a 260rwkw RB20 with delivery like his would be an excellent motor. Maybe consider going down the TD06 route before you give up on your RB20, at the end of the day you can transfer your turbo kit over to your new motor should you decide to go RB25 later. More TD06 info here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Le...tml&hl=td06

Yes and what duty cycle are you trying to tune? If its your boost controllers duty cycle (which is what I am assuming based on your posts) you will need to monitor your boost delivery and adjust the controller accordingly. If it is spiking you will want to turn the duty down. If that takes your target boost down then turn ur target boost back up. Fiddle with the two until you get the happy medium you are after. If it is your injector duty, you really need a wideband AFR and a good knowledge of tuning to be able to adust this. There is no 'good setting' you can simply apply and use.

Buy a pair of -9s to replace them. It will all bolt up and you wont have this issue. Under $2500 from memory.

Ive got one thats done the better part of 2KM driving now sitting in my garage. I fitted it and 2 days later got a good offer on my turbo kit, and have since gone a motor that doesnt suit the return flow. The core quality is excellent, far better than what I remember from JJR coolers not so long ago. Am in Bankstown if you want to come have a look and offer me a reasonable price (for a basically new unboxed item).