GTScotT

Somebody thinks your a hoon and wants to scare you, find out who it was and do a burnout on their driveway. I would. To OP: Use a heat gun to try soften it up as said earlier, you should be able to get most of it off and nothing abit of paint wont fix if it does go horribly wrong. Sorry to see that sort of crap, GL.

Yeah, they should be able to correct it. Realistically, if you go outside now and try to move the actuator rod and find it moves quite easily... Then your preload is set wrong. Another way to test is, bypass your boost solenoid so its running from actuator pressure ONLY and see how lazy it is... if its running sub standard boost and is very lazy, you know its wrong.

Unless he wants it RWD only? MEH

If you add extra preload you should start your boost control settings from scratch, then dont over do it on how much boost. Try to keep boost to its maximum points that they are at now and go for more with a touch up tune. Maybe run it at 1 bar with the added preload to see if you can feel a difference in delivery and how well it holds boost then go from there.

On my HKS pro S I needed to run a LOT of preload on the actuator to have it hit 'rated' pressure and actually SPOOL. I dare say someone has fiddled with your actuator or the preload has never been set. Seriously go and adjust this and have another crack... I shortened mine until it needed some good effort to slip it over the flapper arm.

Hey Buddy, PM me. I have a 10mm in good order from my GTST that I would like to swap for a 12mm to suit my new shifter. Cheers,

Your running a cast manifold from factory so additional support is next to useless. Failure rate on the one piece dumps is fairly low provided you use the gearbox exhaust hanger to brace the front pipe where it meets the cat. As I said, $179 and you cant complain lol.

I also believe its better to use the stock lines, best bet is to not unbolt them from the turbo when you remove it. That way it simply bolts back on. Remember there are only 2 to contend with lol, the other 2 are the return and one that connects to a rubber hose. If you must remove the lines then only thread them in loosely until you mount the turbo, then start up the threads on the block and tighten it all up! That will give you some extra flexibility to get the line back in place. Dont worry too much if you bend the lines a little, just do not crimp them.

This may start a war, however I feel with a .82 your car will be faster AT ALL RPMs. I also feel that a 1.06 may hold benefits that the additional 'Lag' would be worthwhile. I really want to point out that boost v RPM scale is not directly related to road speed. It is more than possible that going to the next size up housing would result in better road speed DESPITE being slower onto boost. To put this into relevant terms, if we could clone your car and drop a .82 housing on then line them up for a 40kph roll in 2nd, the .82 would be in front the entire time. I also feel that the same scenario with a 1.06 would result in the most insignificant of delays before the benefits shine. Not sure how you drive your car, but I also feel power delivery of the 1.06 would be superior in a fast street application (revs generally heated and 4K and up). FYI the 1.06 theory I am speculating on is not something dyno results will tell you.. Also something that would not be relevant on the 'first punch'.

Purely based on products available, the r34 brings up a different listing to r32/33. Generally 32 and 33 are the same listing. Short of the above as far as I have been following, your doing a highflow or GTRS? If so, I am confident a JJR bellmouth will not be far off the mark of the split setup. For $179 direct fit its definitely hard to argue lol.

Search Kinugawa on ebay, hes a reputable seller and has good quality items. If you go to pirtek or enzed you will need to tell them the sizes etc and it will cost alot. Kinugawa sells kits on ebay, just make sure you buy the right one. If you have any trouble finding one post back and Ill find it for you on ebay tonight after work.

LOL that detector looks awesome!

What setup do you have? I am assuming the gate is off the housing and you are running a standard manifold. As for the photo of the two turbos, the physical size is not necessarily an indicator of which is bigger. It could still be the same issue. Try and find someone with a cooler the same size as you and swap the cores over for a day. It sounds like your cooler is doing its job mate. The pipe out of the turbo is HOT as you state but the pipe into the motor is 'Warm'. Thats shows your cooler IS working and you have another issue. I had a similar issue in a turbo NXR a few years ago. I had a very restrictive exhaust on it and the turbo was being superheated. It was also superheating the oil flowing through the core and as such causing lots of issues. My cooler was also blocking the path of cool air into my engine bay which was exacerbating the issue. I tested this by removing the cooler and running it with just a pipe on low boost. Problem was so much less yet the turbo was still getting VERY hot. If it were me, I would replace the cooler core and move up in exhaust housing size. At a minimum I would go .82 and yes I would even consider the larger 1.06...... Whacked theory I have at present but even evos run 10.5cm exhaust housings from stock, and they are responsive as they get.

From what I gather your ports and valves are also the stock size/design? Just wondering @ 455kw is all. To OP, +1 for springs. This would be the weak spot in the head for a few extra rpm.

I honestly thing the issue here is the turbine AR. I dare say going up in AR would make for a faster accelerating car, despite the fact the boost would come on slower. You would see the power roll on better. Go for the 1.06 and a gate off the housing and I think you will be find yourself a massive upgrade.

Hey mate, If you cant find the bit you need at a regular parts shop justjap sell it with a premium attached: http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?p...cat=&page=1 Remember to look into why the shifter popped out in the first place! I dare say the circlip that holds the shifter in either wasnt installed correctly or you will find it snapped. GL

I'm confident your exhaust housing is the problem mate. Going to the bigger AR is not going to harm delivery, boost will come in later but road speed will increase. I know it sounds crazy, but by all theory the upped CR would be bringing the turbo in much earlier. The earlier the turbo comes in the earlier it maxes out. By my theory, your turbo would be maxing out (flow wise) probably before 5000RPM. It still continues to make power but really inefficiently. Heat builds in the exhaust housing and soaks into the cylinder bore. Next thing you know your next strokes are MUCH harder to make the power with and it starts to drop off. If you want to try and test this, try dropping the boost and see how consistent it is. I mean by dropping it down to about 10psi. See if you can get consistent run after run like that or how much better it is atleast. 18psi is an awful lot to be squeezing through a .63 rear end on a GT30 IMO. You may just be the unexpected pioneer to prove this theory right... Your example of the highflow is perfectly relevant. The housing size is tiny on a highflow, they generally run out of puff really early. This is why you see Stao using large pitch turbine wheels to mitigate the issues of the small housing. Once the housing effectively runs out of puff the pitch in turbine blades allows enough exhaust gas to bleed as a bypass and the turbo can max out alot easier. Remember we are dealing with shaft speed @ desired flow. Changing the exhaust AR changes the points at which you see certain shaft speeds, which will determine in effect how quickly we max the entire system out regardless of AR. Theres just too much to get into and its too late and I need sleep. And and and and. Yep.

Stao, just a quick one I think would be valuable to your thread; Are you able to back cut exhaust wheels? I want to do this to make 2835 from 3071 or 3240 from 3540, thanks.

OK, I have a theory...... Things I want to know: Housing AR Decomp mods? Boost response RPMs I bet your turbo spools nice and early... Not laggy at all. I have an odd suspicion that the DE+T compression has tipped your exhaust housing out of efficiency and boost delivery isnt optimal. $10 bucks says your cooler is as good as everyone else running a china cooler whos doing OK.. And your actual issue is EGT transpiring to in cylinder temps. JUST a thought, an expensive one to test too.

By the description of your accident you should not have a problem with your idlers or your pulleys for that matter. The radiator being pushed into the fan to the extent you have described is not likely to have damaged much more than the fan itself and the obvious radiator. Realistically you should contact the assessor who adjusted your quotes and inspected your vehicle. Motor vehicle assessors are ex tradesmen and will generally know what they are on about. Simply tell him what you were told and have him put it to your insurer FOR YOU. If you want to be successful you will have to know what you are actually talking about, hopefully this is where the assessor can step in and voice his opinion to the insurer. Realistically to damage that idler pulley you would need to have the car in a totally non drivable state. The radiator would have to be pushed back do far it squashes all the belts and pulleys onto the motor. That would be more consistent with hitting a car (or a TRUCK) rather than a kangaroo. It definitely doesnt sound like this happened and it seems you simply purchased a car with a noisy belt. Having only owned it for a day it is fair to say you knew SFA about the cars condition, having sat for a month at the repairers would also let any WD40 that might have been sprayed on the noisy component also dry up. Best advice, save your money and wear it.

front mount full exhaust tuned ecu z32 afm 550cc+ injectors big clutch coilpacks fuel pump call it 10 grand to be simple

Sounds like nonsense to me. I dont see a 42R running that much hotter than any other turbo we would ring the neck out of.. Someone with more experience may want to confirm.

You can take a coil out and pop a spark plug in it grounded to the motor, then take the CAS out of the head and spin the drive with your fingers. If the CAS has 12v going to it (and the key is to ON) the injectors should click and the plug should spark. If not, try replace CAS.

300-330rwkw go for 2860 -9, the most response you will get out of it for that power. 350-400rwkw go for 2860 -5, a little laggier yet lots of power. Best part of the above is it will still look like a stock RB26. If your heart is set on highmount go 35R as you said, expect 350ishrwkw with completely different delivery to the twins. Defect mania too. It has been covered a thousand times, so just choose from the above and get reading: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yno-t93880.html

+1 suspected heat soak. Changing that pipe would make it breath better that is a given, however I doubt the restriction would cause that much difference to power delivery. First things first, check your cooler core for excessive oil residue and consider intake location/setup along with cooler quality.