GTScotT

Trent, is this what you are talking about? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...atchlink:top:en I note you stated 330rwkw, what would response be like in comparison to a 3076?

Have a read of this thread mate; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Hy...ce-t261613.html You will learn a bit about what is possible and also have a good contact of who to call.

I had similar issues with some of the pads you have mentioned. Best pads I have ever used were ferodo formula (DS2000) used these on a heavy street application and they outlasted my clutch (there is more to this story than my seem). I would want to give the new range a go if possible. GL

FYI you can also use a regular 17mm nut or most generic lock nuts on these types of wheels. You will need to use a single hex deep socket to use that type of nut, such would also be available in an alloy nut. Also, dont forget alloy nuts have a limited life span.

If you paid a mechanic to install these injectors, you should take it back to him to find the source of the smell. And yes, the smell is vapor. Vapor is the thing point in which fuel goes boom best.

I and a friend are seeing a similar issue with a pair of 2510s on a 32R. Half a bar before 3000 is a piece of piss but it wont start building serious boost till close to 5000. T-Rex do you have cam gears in yours or no gears? What cams too etc? I find it very strange the two cars suffer from the same problem. I am also (semi) encouraging my mate to swap to a single, while I dont want him to fork the cash I also think the twin setup is easily flawed by the smallest of issues. In this case its only going 302rwkw where as he could attain the same figure from a 3076 and possibly have a lot of action a lot sooner. Personally I am also tossing up now between a 35R and a 3076, I have previously run a 3076 for a brief period of time on my RB25 which was not laggy at all. Best description for delivery was like a big T28 on an SR20. Now I am contemplating how to get above 350rwkw without the sacrifice of too much response. The 35R IS the go but just how much response will be sacrificed I dont know.. As mentioned above a thought would be a 3040 with TS 1.06 rear housing. I have considered this setup put together with a high rev limit and a goal of 350rwkw MAX. Yet as stated.. the ATP housings leave some to be desired, a cast that could use some work and the fact its only really a T3 flange despite being TS. All in all it seems difficult to track down the right info on these housings, I would want to see if the 35R is available in a good T4 TS housing as that may be the key to getting the power AND the delivery out of a sub 3L motor.

Considering that most oils on the market are not that great to begin with, and the fact that we probably all drive our cars harder than grandmas churcher, you should probably not worry bout the $3 saving you will get from extended interval changes In other words, keep changing your oil at the recommended interval regardless.

Split fires SOLD Taking offers on long motor and gearbox

http://hippiekiller.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/troll.jpg

I wont be staying with the CT12's for long, Ill probably try and break them first then ditch them for a garrett. I honestly think a garrett is better suited to your needs than one of these turbos, but I would be interested to see your results either way. Perhaps look at: http://www.gtpumps.com.au/trust_turbos.html

Hey Zebra! Don't do it, the 20G is what they use on evos to get them up to the 250ish awkw mark. You are really going to be selling yourself short if you run that small a turbo. For the effort of running custom manifold and gate you should look to something that will yield better results. If you are chasing response, consider the 52 trim 3076. I just took delivery of my jz today, I will be running the stock turbos for a while. Just out of curiosity, have you looked at the drag times thread on toymods? Some people are running the JZZ30 into the low 11s on the factory CT12A, one or two even into the 10s. I am honestly not of much use when it comes to running the TD06-25G on one of these motors BUT seriously, dont underestimate this motor.. You wouldnt put a 20G on an RB25.. Which means you would be damned to try the same on this thing

Firstly, if you are going to get the 3076, you should get the surge ported .6 AR front cover. Secondly, I believe the 2.75" version is a .5 AR front cover. Similar to that found on a 3071. Now, from all the variations of this turbo we have seen people use, the best option is the surge slotted .6 AR front cover. You will make the numbers with this and you will sound like a semi spooling up behind everyone. The 4" intake is honestly a PITA IMHO also. When I had my HKS 3037 (same turbo) I had it with the HKS only 80mm front cover. It is the same one as used on the garrett yet with the 4" snout cut off and a 80mm (3.15") snout bolted on. I would not even start to dream of bothering to make something to replicate this. However - the turbo I always wanted to run was a 3071. The 2.75" .5 AR front cover is standard to that particular turbo and should not suffer from surge on the RB25. You are likely to be hard pressed to hit the 300rwkw mark as easily, however you will pick up some punch in the lower RPM. For reference, see usmair's thread of his GTST with 3071 (.82 IW rear housing): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/29...l&hl=usmair See also: http://www.gcg.com.au/index.php?page=shop....t&Itemid=53

If you do not have oil coming out of the return at the bottom of the turbo while the motor is running you have serious problems! Do not drive the car until this is fixed and seek a mechanic if you are not sure what the issue is. You should check your oil feed for flow, to do this, crack the nut on the oil feed to the turbo and start the car BRIEFLY. If oil pisses out of there you know its the turbo thats blocked, if not its probably the line and you should replace it ASAP, you may have a crimp in it.

Something along the lines of my thoughts. Actual engineering is bypassed by a big wheel that lets a lot of gas through it easily. Seems like an awful lot of trial and error going on for a pretty heavy price.

Hes using the VG30 housing in that thread, its just an op6. You need to read the whole thread to see how the turbo developed, there are a lot of typos and misleading information. The final specs are also in a different thread that u need to find the link to in there. The actual reason I pasted that link was to give thought to the possibility of porting the exhaust housing exit to held hold higher boost? It would mean more lag yet ability to flow for longer. However, EVERY high flow I have seen lately has an ENORMOUS rear wheel that is seemingly infinitely ported already so, this is probably a dream at best until you take the turbo off and take a look. If you have a look at something like a HKS GTRS, the rear wheel is nowhere near the size of the wheels we see in high flows, yet still cuts the mustard as we all know. I feel these high flows are sort of like commodores, every time they make a newer and better one its grown in cubes and they throw bigger band aids on it to compensate (brakes, tyres, etc).

I honestly think there is a lot of knowledge to be had in this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/35...-9b-t22706.html This guy managed to make the same sort of power from nothing more than porting the rear housing and running a big compressor wheel. Stao, I have seen your exhaust wheels, they are enormous. Have you thought about running a milder exhaust wheel and porting the exit more than a standard profile? Maybe you can experiment with some of the theories found in that thread. I will be working with a pair of Toyota CT12A soon, so I might give you a call about some bits we can try with them.

A friend had one on an evo 9, was very quiet running around and let out a loud shriek like it was gating when booted. Bare in mind this was with a factory dump and next to new/working cat.

I have a FULL kit, PM me if your keen.

Alternator SOLD Flywheel and clutch kit, all bolts, clutch is fairly new (oem valeo kit) - $150

Motor and box now out of the car, ready for pickup. Stock coil packs SOLD.

The compression is also fine mate, motor is a LITTLE tired but its fine. As much is to be expected from an old motor, it will still do what an internally stock RB should do if you keep up the maintenance as you should.

Very nice! Love the 3L + 35R combo Keep up the good work champ!

Gearbox is now $1200 with fork/slave/clutch/flywheel Pedal box and master will be kept for my conversion. This price is generous as it is, no more low balls. Cheers

From what reading I have done, E85 is rather different from 98. 98 has a sweet spot where it burns well with AFRs of 11 - 12.5 out the tail pipe (11 being a guess because I forget the actual figure) where anything inbetween is good for making peak torque or power. Now I also forget the exact numbers for E85, however the lean max and rich max suposedly have a massive gap between them with a small tollorance for each. For example rich max being say 7:1, lean max being 13:1 and running at say 10:1 would acheive poor results. I noticed this when trying to work out why people were pulling almost ALL timing out of their tunes to run the E85 while using a 'reasonable' AFR. Realistically I know hardly anything about the fuel and dont plan to, yet its interesting how wildly its properties vary from 98.

I wonder just how hot it would run when pushed hard. I see people saying it would be OK for good power on the street, but personally that would mean dead engine in my hands.