GTScotT

The 2871 with a 52 trim compressor is AKA the HKS GTRS. Going the 48T version IMO would be a miss match (as otherwise would have been used by HKS themselves) and is likely to be less responsive than the -5s. I do however see a theory forming... Essentially the exhaust side on the 2871 to the 2860 is the same... Perhaps this could help resolve the surge issue. I am a firm believer in pursuing what works though, this could be an odd mismatch.. There is someone on this site that could provide a better opinion though.

lol Ash, you of all people should know no number of threads or posts will ever over come the morons. You will always get SOMEONE saying "Ive run 1.5 bar no problem for a year straight" and up comes the new thread with everyone say YEAH YEAH 1.5 BAR!! Such is teh forum. Make a 3 digit IQ part of the registration process

2 things I have learnt recently with E85 that you guys might like to know. E85 has a particularly short shelf life. Unfortunately I cannot recal the exact figures or terms yet within weeks the mixture sepparates and the fuel goes off. You will have a drum with 2 compounds completely sepperate from eachother, sort of like oil floating on water. This would be relevant to storing the fuel in drums.. The other issue with this is that the fuel is prone to absorbing water, if left to sit for a while the breather on your tank can absorb enough water over the coarse of a few weeks to have your next turn of the key pump straight water through your rail. Issue 2; more so an interest thing rather than a precaution. The points for max torque on a lean mixture vs a rich mixture are very wide. I believe the people running FAT injectors are generally going for the rich max for peak torque yet there is also a point on the opposite end of the spectrum where combustion temps and detonation arent an issue. This could see us using much smaller injectors if this theory was explored a little more in depth. Food for thought.

Speed cameras are meant to be put up in known blackspots, thus motorists 'outsmarting' the cameras is actually fuulfilling the machines original purpose - stopping motorists speeding in that particular place. Obviously we arent meant to speed at all, but were also not meant to go to war or fight with eachother. There are certain things that no matter what you do you can never stop a human doing. We will all break the rules, we will all do stupid things. Meh, do what you can do mitigate the risks (IE deter drivers from speeding with cameras ETC) but dont take it personally (enter angry cop man here). This article goes to show the whole revenue raising stabs are far more accurate than the 'blackspot' safety speil offered on the RTA website (to which they are still pushing with the mobile cameras). MEH.

Always use the sender from the gearbox you remove. With 15-20 year old cars the only thing that is sound is what you know DOES work. Why gamble a sender from another gearbox if your own works, thats the moral of the story. Plus Nissan has been known to change sender gear sizes from model to model in the past, you will probably find the two of them have a different size gear. GL

If the slave cylinder swap doesnt work, I would be trying a different clutch kit. Basics, unfortunately with custom setups they are the hardest to work out lol.

A 240 with that kind of power... Someone has a wangan fettish +1 vote for throw it all together and see what youve got Dont want to go buying new turbos and parts etc etc if your not even sure how your current setup suits your wants/needs. If its not what you wanted, you will atleast have an idea what characteristics you want to change and the relevant data on where to start.

Personally I think its a little late for an oil contamination test, the bearing has let go so you are guaranteed to find metal in the oil. Best to pull it down and inspect. Keep a sample of the oil just incase. As for rev limit, it speaks for itself. Set the limit to the actual limitations of your build.

This was something I was considering for a long while. Things start to get rough at the 250 mark, braking distances multiply and its hard to tell the difference once your above 200. I advise caution... To the wind. I dare say 3.9s out of the auto S13 might not cut the mustard. I am fairly sure you can get a touch under 3.7s in an S14 5MT, should be able to swap the crown and pinion over to our setups and retain our half shafts. Me + this thread = epic lulz.

LMAO

Its more so a wear and tear thing than it is a single event mate. I dont think a single over rev of 9k would take out the bearings in one hit. You are more than likely looking at prolonged user error here. How do you treat the engine? One spirited morning without the motor on opperating temp (and I mean more than the water temp gauge) will do more damage than one 9000rpm rev when its running.

I dare say that the reason the RB26 gear is interchangeable between RB25 heads is that there is stuff all between them. You can swap the cams, the springs, the shims, the buckets, the caps. I dont see why you couldnt do the same port work and mods to the NEO head as the RB26 and do the same revs. From some reading, head wise you will be looking at port matching/springs/retainers at a minimum. Valve sizes could use some work, AFAIK the exhaust valves are a little small on the 25s. Im not sure what is done to the cranks to get them to rev, yet rods and slugs would be off the shelf items for this application. Lubrication mods would be a MAJOR point to cover. You may want to look at well documented cars such as the Mines R34 for specs to see what they did to rev to 9. Remembering that the bottom end of the 25 is not far from the 26. This has been done to death Im sure, just the sort of information that those who know are never willing to give up . GL, your cars a machine as it is.

This really is the point where we are meant to say search . Yet, you will need to change just about all your current mods bar your clutch. 500HP at the wheels will warrant a set of slugs so, if your not interested in spending 10K minimum to get there, dont bother. If you shot for 400 instead you could go injectors/ecu/turbo which could cost you less than 5K if your smart about it. Please see: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yno-t55845.html

Would like to see prices on this RPM tyre, sizes 235/45 and 255/40 17". Cheers,

This sort of issue is consistent with a bad earth. Remember voltage is only as good as the earth, its a circle system.

+1 try this.

Thread is 2 years old young man. The guy has a very successful RB25 setup, point taken /end thread.

Such is the attitude that earns R35 owners their name. Smile

Not much can be said about your vibration mate, you will need to get the car looked at to identify what could be causing it. Based off the info youve given it could be anything. As for oil, follow manufacturer spec of make your own decision. Generally a 10w40 would be fine, I like to use a thicker oil such as a 20w50. Quality should be your focus, dont skimp out on it. If you owned a skyline previously you can continue to use the same oils you were using previously (Theres no special requirement for an RB26 over an RB25). Also, the handling difference between your GTST and your GTR would be based on condition and mods Essentially they are the same car, just the GTR is alot heavier. Sorry to break your heart lol.

lol no problem. 3" is actually 75mm and I only need that the flanges are no less than 70mm. My pipe is off the car and I wont be needing it back on any time soon, I dont drive it. No rush. Ill go down to the post office and ask them about postage, PM me your details for an accurate quote.

Mine is an 80mm one piece front and dump. And id be wanting your front pipe, not ur dump pipe lol. The bit that goes from the stock dump to the cat. PM me what size the inlet and outlet is, and I can more than likely post the item to you if we agree to do the deal. Im wanting a pipe that is 70-80mm at both flanges, no less than 70mm. As stated, PM me.

A used HKS one would be an excellent option, I saw a few on yahoo japan and local egay lately. While I do agree with disco to the 2 piece affair, I did just removed my stock turbo and 1 piece dump from my own car. I actually was able to remove the dump quite easily with minimal stress. I simply unbolted it from the cat then unbolted it from the turbo and slid it out. There was no magic to it, it was just a well constructed item that had plenty of access clearance for the dump flange bolts. And now for a shameless plug: the item is now for sale I am looking to swap it for a half piece like what came off your car Trozzle. PM me if you want to do a straight swap or even cash your way (depending on quality of your item). Cheers,

Can you try swap ECU's with somebody? I had all world of trouble with mine when I bought it yet it turned out to be a dry joint in the ECU. I would have never known till swapping it to another just to test. This is by no means me trying to tell you that you have the same problem, merely advising you may want to try. GL

Not to break your heart, but 2530s (aka 2860 -5s) are good for 450rwkw. The last member I spoke to who hit the 450 and couldnt go further due to limitations of his intank fuel pumps. This was with garrett -5s too, not the more expensive HKS branded item. Then again you could be aiming for 600rwkw, I wouldnt know .

Yes, same.