GTScotT

This is really off topic, but, evo's 4 - 9 run 1 bar from stock. Unsure of the 10.

Anywhere between 1000 and 2500 depending on who you get to do it.

Fuel rail conversion kits to suit R33 side feed injectors converting to top feed items such as Seimens deka.

Gee you went straight for gold there... a 4G63 is in a league of its own, there is no comparison between it and an RB20. I use to own one of these things, one word comes to mind, ridiculous. IMO the main ingredient in the mix here is the bore x stroke and the turbo in question. A square engine is more than the best of both worlds, its almost the best of both worlds. Unmatched torque and an ability to rev. The SR is square: 86x86, where as the 4G has a minor offset: 87x85. That slight change put together with a really well flowing head from the factory results in a motor that wants to rev infinitely and has loads of power and torque. Surprisingly though, the EJ25 in question is nothing great in that sense, its something like 75 x 99. BUT, dare I say the whole 'boxer' principal plays a major part. I think the major issue here is turbos. In no shape way or form do I think the RB's true character can flow through those tiny housings they come with from the factory, and high flowing is IMO no form of a fix. Run either a GTRS or 2835 and I think you will see the motor really start to shine. I am fitting a 3037 and know for a fact it will be no chop when it comes to on road feel to a 2835.. Its like an evo with its factory turbo and cams, or an SR and a T28. While they might not make eleventy billion killawasp's they definitely drive like true animals. Dont forget, the EJ25 is running some form of an MHI turbo.... When mitsubishi makes a turbo, you know not to question it. Since the evo 4 they have been able to have them on power from nearly idle, revving to 8 and making over 200kw at all 4 wheels. That rexy turbo might look small but theres a something magic going on inside. (Sideon needs to learn to log out of my PC) As for IHI turbos, just a heads up - Mitsu turbos are called MHI. They have some shared models like TD turbos etc, which is what is on alot of stock rexys. I believe the development is done by mitsu for those. FYI your Nissan CAS has a mitsu logo on it too, as does your BOV (as do the 2 BOVs on the R35) go have a look.

Gap to 0.8 and ull be fine. Be careful when gaping non copper plugs as the tips are delicate. FYI you are not meant to gap them. Next time you will remember to check the gap.

Ash, this info is a little misleading, could you please clarify. Someone may interpret this info as the flange size. The ID of flanges should never step down in line of flow. IE having a 4" flanged cat meet a 3.5" flange on a catback is bound to cause turbulence issues. From experience, a cat with 75mm ID meeting a 80mm front pipe on a fairly typical SR setup held back power by roughly 50rwkw. FYI gutting the cat did not help either, yet sure enough replacing with an 80mm cat to match fixed everything.

Looking forward to this!

Get a $30 tap and set it to 0.7 bar (8psi) yourself like I did. Better than stock IMO, more torque down low (obviously) and spools a little sooner. The turbotech one on ebay is the one I have, well documented on this forum as to how good they are. GL

If your setup is good, more boost and better tune should see you in the 400s.

FYI Your economy wont be effected once its tuned properly. If you keep them you will have headroom for more power later.

Just give it to me, Ill fix it. FYI you have one of my dream setups. I dont personally see those returns being an issue. How is crank ventilation taken care of after the build? Running stock or has added breathers/catch can? +1 comp and leakdown to proceed.

Are your turbos new and are you sure it is your turbos? Start with the basics.

Justjap sells them for 300 BRAND NEW OEM bosch. I got my plug from pick n dont pay out of a R31 RB30 skyline. Justhjap also sells the plug for a reasonable price brand new with instructions.

What motor is this going on? NEO or R33 RB25? And no ethanol does not harm injectors. (forgot to answer this earlier) The mythology is, that ethanol corrodes old fuel lines. Realistically this is a non event for most skyline users anyway, really only a variable if you run an E85 setup, and even then there arent THAT many rubber hoses to replace in the car anyway.

pics or ban

+1 for RB26 This motor has the power you are looking for almost out of the box, not many modifications will be needed to acheive your goals. As stated above a cheap single turbo manifold and a decent single turbo will bring the slug to drifting life. The RB26 ecu is also easily remapable where as an R33 RB25 is not and a NEO requires a fairly delicate daughterboard. AFAIK R32 ecu's can have an eprom chip flashed and installed (no board needed). RB25s cannot and using an R32 ECU will disable your ability to use VCT (desirable on an RB25). A friend of mine made 350WHP on an R32 RB26 using just front pipe - catback, boost up and reflashed ecu. Stock dump pipes were retained as would be stock intercooler piping, injectors and afms. Pick of the bunch would be a 94 model R32 RB26 or R33, for the long nose crank (far more reliable). This option is not available on any RB25s. GL

You will be hard pressed to find that info, you are better off asking the guy your buying that gearbox from to measure his. Then measure it against you car or what you are replacing.

Have you cleaned the engine bay lately? Perhaps you have water down the plug gaps, sounds typical of this.

With 'bolt-ons' I believe the simple answer would be, yes. With head work, I think the T4TS would rain on everyone's parade.

This can be misleading, its hard for a novice to know the difference so I would not advise this often. Comp test and leak down are the most effective ways of testing for signs of wear that would result in excessive blow-by. Realistically if you are burning lots of oil, you can fit a catch can to try and rule out the turbo, then you can start thinking about blow-by.

Neg, still ceramic. But a nice upgrade for your 20 either way. I remember driving a 20 with 1 cracked exhaust valve running an R33 turbo, fmic, tbe and it was nice to drive. Lag was superficial and added mid-top end actually made it quite exciting to boot around. GL.

The bell housing will be the same, yet as I do not know the gearbox myself I cannot say if the shifter position or rear mount would suit. What car is this gearbox out of? Chances are it will fit like factory if not identical.

Assuming you are friends with the OP, did the KAI come with a dump or is it an OEM bolt up scenario?

I think your query is a little more specific than the flow of T3 to T4, more so the flow of your specific turbos you have just mentioned. I gather you are trying to make a turbine housing to one of your options to match the flow rate of your other option in its set housing. As disco said, they are not directly comparable, but looking at the turbine maps more so than the AR sizes is a good start. GL

You do not know what he means by 'tuned', thus should not be jumping to conclusions. The RB20 ecu has a socket for a rom chip that can be tuned (painfully) as well as any other daughterboard modified ecu. To the OP, recheck your works and try installing the actuator from the turbo you removed and running stock boost.