GTScotT

Getting a few of the same questions in PM, will add info here. Box was removed after noise developed. New motor, gearbox, clutch etc was installed, so I cannot verify that the box was infact the noise maker. The input shaft has very little freeplay which is normal, after a brief inspection I am assuming the intermediate bearing is what is causing the sound. And for those wanting to ask this, no you cannot put it in and live with it like that it will when it is otherwise a good gearbox in need of a minor fix.

comp test before u go any further at least

just to confirm it is a fully moded R34 GTR NUR minus a wing? ill give it a crack right now, got to make some dirty cash and find a nur

Hey guys, Have the following items to flog: 1 x S14 5 speed gearbox rather noisy on idle, runs EXCELLENT, no crunching no funny business what so ever other than the noise at idle. As soon as the clutch is engaged or the car is driven its entirely silent. Could have been the clutch? I turfed the clutch that was ROOTED beyond use when I did the engine swap and used my spare gearbox. I suspect the intermediate bearing, if you know how to pull the box down it is a $20 fix. The internals are all solid, no excessive play in the input shaft, and the oil that was drained did not have signs of wear (no shavings, no metallic residue). $200 FIRM. Pickup syd or ship at entirely your expense and effort. You know what it looks like. 4 x 17x7 FOX racing rims with Dunlop lemans 702 tyres Have only travelled 600km from new, was on a mates weekender that never gets driven. Hes now going for the sleeper look and swapped out for his stockies again. $700, again ship at entirely your expense and effort. The tyres are worth more alone. Would suit some of the NA kids of someone with silvia base that want cheap reasonable rims with excellent tyres. 2 minor scratches for careless parking, cry moar. Cheers!

The majority of your questions have been covered plenty, such as the fuel system. You will find that answer within minutes of searching. However, I am curious as to why your tuner has recommended you a 35R? What is it you are chasing with your R? Give us some detail

correct the turbo itself might not be that much cheaper, but the parts involved in bolting on something aftermarket change that. another advantage alot of people see is that it looks stock. cops wont bug you, and you get a good upgrade over stock without changing too much.

wait.... is this a troll?

thats imagining at max flow, which is not relative to a specific boost level.

so if you keep the vise grips on the return hose will it start? doesnt the RB20 have a dropping resistor for the injectors in the harness?

lol cheap enough as it is, why sell as pairs FTL GL with the sale

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...yno-t55845.html everything you need to know in that thread

Anyone want to get back into this? I want to a challenge for some times, cmon ppl

LOL @ lucky our SLS can drive on grass

based on that, I personally think you should stick to the 20. for the cost of parting out you will probably break even on a 25 conversion. without mods its a dud of a motor, especially compared to what youve got already. if you want to start over and spend all that money all over again on another stock motor, sure enough it will end up somewhat better on the 25. really ur only losing the tune and injectors, you can reuse ur turbo and ur z32 for good results on the 25, but ull need a pfc and injectors again.. fail. stay 20

yea, but ur a gimp. gimps love teh leather. only kidding, if its what you want go for it. personally i prefer cloth (not being a gimp and all) so id swap out for another pair of 2nd hand seats and sell mine for chips (could buy GTR seats )

dont be silly, ur still going to get pwned by hondas lol keep the cash and buy a faster car when the time comes

Luckily, we dont need to reinvent the wheel. Just as, we dont need to re-engineer the turbo either. When I was at your stage, the dyno thread along with a couple of other threads on GT30s told me all I needed to know. Efficiency wise the 3076 is one of the best, but that doesnt necessarily mean its the best turbo for your RB25. Personally I was most interested in the HKS GTRS at first, the delivery was just about spot on and would get a near guaranteed 250rwkw. Then obviously being a perfectionist, knowing that the 3076 made 300kw and that the compressor was nicely matched to the motor, I couldnt settle for just 250. The delivery of the 3076 just wasnt entirely what I was after, it seemed to progressive and lazy, this is only my personal opinion. Yet looking further into things I found that the delivery I wanted and the higher output were best compromised into the HKS 2835, which is seemingly alot more responsive and capable of roughly the 270-290rwkw mark with ease. Next thing I knew a HKS 3037 cropped up for a steal and I thought hey, maybe I can get that GTRS feel AND 300kw if I match that to that RB30 I have in the garage! Bingo, this was going to work. Right till I went to get my crank balanced and it was a dud. So now Ive decided to cut my loses and be the regular wanker with a RB25 and that size turbo rather than the special type of wanker I would have been otherwise. Point Im making here is, if I was to do it all again, Id grab a 3071 with an ex gate .63 rear and plumb a gate off the housing. Theres a chap that posted a thread with that on his mild RB25 with a .82 internal gate housing and got nearly spot on delivery to what I wanted and 292rwkw. You can find the thread in this section if you look hard enough. Hypergear can mod the housing for an external gate for $150 Im fairly sure, and theres a guy selling a suitable dump for $250 on NS. Then all u need is a 10mm spacer for the stock manifold and your off and racing. You can also get an internal gate housing for the turbo to keep a stealth like appearance, yet for some reason the garrett internal gate housings (especially the smaller ARs) dont like holding boost to red line. Dont forget HKS do most of the R&D for these turbos in the first place, thats why they get rights to them for 6 years while garrett cant sell them till after that. You will also find HKS housings are unique to the garrett ones, my 3037 exhaust housing is nothing like a garrett one. FYI 3037 wheels = 3076 and 2835 is a modified 3071. Viva la HKS for me and GL.

go for a bits n pieces rb30 isnt the RB25 from the r32 gts4 compatible with rb20 manifolds? even if not a rb25 manifold is easy to get with injectors, u hav the rest of the stuff. you could piece something together fairly cheap mate, but only if ur up for it. easiest way is definitely another 20, GL

check out the dyno thread mate.... ull see people with hiflows running 17 or 18 psi making 230 kw, while ppl running a 3076 will make 300kw on the same. pressure and flow are not relative, as crazy as it sounds. i wont go into detail, as i think this answers your question. to your next question: there is a reasonable limit to everything. a small turbo making 200hp at 19psi might not pop your motor while a big one doing the same might, most likely due to the power output.. no matter how much boost you run a standard RB25 isnt going to last forever at 500rwkw, even if its running 10psi of boost (ridiculous arguments sake) theres also the matter of tune state and how hot the charge air is etc etc this is a BIG can of worms.. so ill let you ask the next question. But beware, your going to be told to search.

Just the same way 2 turbos can make the same peak output and completely different delivery, 2 tunes can do the same. He might have the numbers, but might not have the torque to get the MPH down. The ET sounds about right for the car and MPH. Torque wins races, pulling timing and fuel doesnt.

pretty similar to what im speculating also

i got excited thinking it was a 30DET and would find someone posting some secret cheap injectors for the r33 dets fail!

+1 bell mouth 1 peicer, cheaper and easier. works well on stock based turbos.

Cmon play nice.. Lets discuss that actuator stopper, I think its fine. if the actuator was fully open all the time there would be no boost. The same as if it was to hit target boost and sit fully open boost would fall off. The wastegate flap is constantly regulating at a high rate, and would hardly be open fully to hold target boost, if even open for longer than countable seconds at a time. Therefore I see the wastegate stopper as a means to prevent sudden changes in pressure. The actuator could be reacting too slow as the revs rise and with an obvious increase in manifold pressure I can see how the flap would be pushed open too far and cause it to drop boost. The issue of pressure in the manifold should be something that could be worked out mathematically AFAIK. We are talking CFM in and CFM out after all.... considering flow = power more or less, as long as the turbine can flow the gas through it at those shaft speeds, I dont think there could be a problem. Id leave that for Stao to answer tho, he is the one who quote engineers these turbos.

i think the result is impressive and on par with alot of 3076 results. its making nearly 200kw at the 4000rpm mark which is well and truly on par, and it ramps on nice. considering the final output is also near enough to 300kw, for something that will bolt on and be very close to stock like appearance, i think we have a few too many whingers in this thread. please take note of my reference to the words 'i think' and note that it is my personal opinion that you are whingers, to which i am entitled lets not forget the value either!