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GTScotT

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Everything posted by GTScotT

  1. If you have a good dump and front pipe on it already, a screamer pipe wont do anything other than put a big hole in your wallet when the cops catch on. If you look at results for these turbos when done by HKS, you will see they usually dont have an issue holding boost to redline. Same can be seen on HKS 2835 vs a garrett 3071 equivalent. I feel the issue is more so the housing design rather than the need for an external gate. I personally dont think the addition of an external gate is necessary or beneficial. AFAIK Stao is using T25 housings and modifying them for a T3 footprint. Perhaps the design needs some improvement to adopt the altered flow dynamics. Hopefully Stao and some other gurus can step in to provide further insight.
  2. Trent could you confirm if you have ever wired a R34 neo ecu into an s1 33 gtst non ABS? I am trying to find a way around using either a PFC ($$) or a Z32 ecu (I have been told running it is somewhat buggy). I just finished wiring an S13 redtop into an S14.. harness is the original S14 item as finding all the ABS and parker wiring through it was too much of a mission. I changed the plugs on the motor side and then changed the ecu plug to the S13 item. Am sort of considering if this would be the same task on an R33 to R34.. Seeing as the ECU is different Im wondering if the sensors and accessories on the motor side are also different, and hoping you may have experience in this. Sorry for the thread hi-jack, although I do feel this is valuable information and is sure to hit some search results. Cheers
  3. Nice results, could you explain what you mean by 'status style piggy back nistune' ? Id like to know moar
  4. im sure it will work, although turbulence might become an issue... i always regarded the exit point of the turbo as crucial, no expert here tho
  5. Mate thats an awesome job on the paint, nice work!
  6. Hey guys, This is mine, for those who aren't sure by looking, yes it actually drives. The cars a 1:10 HB Cyclone S with some minor mods (pro diffs w/carbide balls, uprated sways and customized endlinks etc). Going brushless soon, soon as I can justify the power to blow it to pieces... Shell is the Tamiya Loctite R33, rare as rocking horse shit.. Originally sold in 1995 in a kit with a fairly basic chassis (i think the emphasis was on being a working model R33). Later tamiya did a re-release just for a tokyo car show where you could purchase a limited edition shell with no post markings, completely uncut and unpainted (did come with the loctite decal set although im saving that for something else). Mine is the limited edition model from that show, still stamped tamiya 1995. I chose to do it gunmetal to honor my humble GTST I dont use the shell much, the current motor and computer combo is seeing it walk past traffic with a zero to top speed of roughly a second.. trying not to damage the car itself is hard enough let alone my limited edition shell.. Hope you guys enjoy! And my race shell just for kicks, note my TE37s lol
  7. Fairly certain the housings are unique HKS items on the 2530s, Ive noted that to make quite a difference in the past
  8. it could play a part but its highly doubtful, as the current tune is more than likely built off a stock map with stock cold start config
  9. Dont get your nickers in a twist mafia, he did correct himself
  10. +1 annoying to mount a tank and poorly developed LPG systems
  11. he did state hes not planting it, just notices it goes better if he warms it up idling rather than driving easy. I think this is a common thing, ive experienced it on most all cars ive driven. One of my cars felt lazy if i did the opposite lol, it prefered to be driven within 30 seconds of starting and warmed up with easy driving, then it was alive. I have a feeling that this is oil related, if ur due for a service soon try run something of higher grade. The best oil I know of is neo gold and you can get it from gccorp.com.au delivered to your door for about $70 for 5L. My motors always ran tops on that stuff, it turned my sludge filled SR to a new looking motor within 1 service (talking about under the rocker). Its also an extended interval oil, i usually keep it in for about 8000. GL
  12. its essentially the same motor mate, the only thing that really changes for you is the lack of oil squirters. the oil feed is no biggie. the oil squirters ARE something you want tho, for your application. they definitely will make the motor more reliable. considering you are talking about whacking big turbos on and stroking the thing. over revving the thing makes no difference whether its de or det, just dont do it.
  13. Ive seen similar on a car with a cracked valve TBH, but Im not saying I think yours has the same issue. Id be chasing up a mechanics stethoscope and listen to the rhythm of the injectors pulse, see if number 2 sounds different to the others. The click will be loud through the stethoscopes.
  14. LOL stock GTR is illegal, killer!
  15. Ive actually taken the time to look at alot of results, and no matter how mild or wild the setup, the exhaust cam gear being retarded 3 or 4 degrees seems to tune out that dip before 4000rpm when using stock cams. If you check, most setups that have stock cams will have that dip bar those with the exh cam gear. You may want to look into that along with the rev210 intake mod. Great results too, congrats
  16. Great results I was confident such a setup would work very well. Congrats
  17. While testing the waters with various cars, I ended up reading abit on the supra forums. One thing I picked up from there, being a HIGH HP based forum, is a good method of turbo selection. The rear housing was selected to determine powerband, a larger housing obviously shifting the powerband higher. Remember here, if we get a .64 rear housing from a 2860rs for example, and compare it to a .63 rear housing off a 3076r.. which housing is bigger? We cant always compare housing sizes the same across all turbos.. just because a .63 is too small for one turbo, doesnt make it too small for the next. the HKS GTRS uses a .64 rear housing, its the last turbo ive seen choke on an RB25. Im pretty sure once Stao works out where the restriction is, he will work on a solution. that waste gate limiter was next to genius IMO.
  18. +1 for faultless results from mines and blitz PnP ecu's in various cars Ive had exp with. Re Z32 nistuned for R33: Spoke to unigroup week before last who advised against this as apposed to a PFC. I was told the Z32 would have some issues crossing over and may seem buggy. And according to the tuner at unigroup the VCT is too valuable to ditch for the sake of an RB20 ecu, something to the tune of 80% more power at boost threshold @ 3000rpm. Their results are always excellent, so Im running with their advice for my setup.
  19. Its meant to be plumbed after the TB, which is pretty small from memory on a GTR. I'm fairly sure you will need a standalone unit with a vac port to run a hose to, but I am open for correction as Ive never done one personally.
  20. AFAIK selbys have gone independant from whiteline/redranger now. whiteline is now offshore whereas selbys is still local.
  21. This happened to my last car after a MAJOR thrashing followed by a long time sitting. Nothing was blown but there was a significant amount of condensation trapped in the motor. I suggest a very good and thorough service before anything else. Mine was fine after I serviced it and ran it at opp temp and driven for a while.
  22. +1 for R&R over 10 psi I am running a stock SMIC tho, which i suspect may be holding it back. with the change in AFs once an FMIC goes on i think i may be able to run over the 10psi. This is not the first skyline I have thought the o2 sensor has effected R&R.
  23. depending on what you want, it is alot easier than whatever you just mentioned. if your aim is sub 200rwkw, you can do the following. -OEM SR20DET manifold and turbo, with bolt on exhaust from wherever -Any regular intercooler kit -T piece fitting for oil pressure sender and braided oil line to length -water lines picked up from throttlebody -oil return best tapped into block at factory location (see below) fittings with generic kit you get with the water and your braided fitting -managment (ecu and injectors, stock afm reads the same as all other sr20 afms) With the oil return, what you need to do is, you need to support the motor and remove the cross member and upper+lower sump (pan and upper alloy section). then you need to drill and tap the oil return to its factory location and make sure you dont get any fillings fly out into the motor anywhere (the whole point of taking the sump off). If even 1 word of the above is in the slightest confusing, you should NOT attempt this modification. Short of this, a redtop half cut dropped in is an excellent idea.
  24. he probably means the stock front pipe bolted to the hks dump that comes with the kit, and for all we know the ecu could have a FCD wired in. On topic, check out hypergears new ATR43SS, the results are amazing, and im fairly sure if you got stao to build it into the stock turbo and ran the stock R33 actuator at low boost it will run FINE. Not impressive as already said above, but it shouldnt give you any headaches in the meantime while you save up for a tune. GL
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