GTScotT

Awesome news dude. Be sure to get feedback from your tuner and post up.

No, I just think it should be said if they have done that many. I'd like to know finer details like if there is plenty of wall thickness etc.

Wouldn't welding on a T3 flange to a T2 housing result in just a little bit of turbulence? I mean considering the side of the T3 discharge to the T2 entry.. I like the idea but I am not sure this is sound advice :S At least not without better instruction or insight into a successful procedure. Not to be a prick, but I have a T3 setup as noted and I WANT a 500HP EFR...

What have you run them with? Does Trent have any feedback? Even my tuner knocked them, but he didn't realise that I was running a set.. I find it funny because he made such a point to tell me how good EVERYTHING in my car was, in that it gave him ZERO issues. I guess that includes the injectors, right? It should be known that I get great economy and perfect drivability with them AND my awesome Hypergear turbo.

Its always best to check parts like that, so yes crack off the screws one at a time and reassemble with loctite. Also, a few years back a friend did similar with his GTR. After much research he went with an OEM Nissan long nose crank and a JUN pump. The motor is still out there somewhere doing the duties as intended.

Yep that article has been around for a long while. djr81 is correct, you need to measure the tolerances as you are assembling, like all things. It would be forgivable to ignore it, as a factory crank should fit a factory pump.. But the issue is there. To confirm, you would also need to do this with an aftermarket crank collar. In recent discussions it was noted that plate welding and machining to exact tolerances was the best way. For me I agree here, but need to stress the tolerance of the pump gear to their own housing needs to be considered also. Plate welding the drive surface can be catastrophic if you go too far, so be careful with your measurements if you do go this way. What is wrong with your existing crank? Is it cracked or not salvageable?

I have a mate with 2x R31 GTS2's which have RB30s with big cams, ported heads and management from stock. I highly doubt they would get out of first, either. Get yourself an 8 and you will pop the tyres a lot quicker frying 3rd. BTW this is the forced induction section. Try using the other cars section for something like this, or the naturally aspirated section.

No problem. Regarding the crank with collar try to source yourself an R33 GTR crank. They come factory with a longer crank drive and do not need a collar http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16277&cat=544&page=1

Your turbo is overkill for 600whp come back to a 6466 (even a 6262 will get you there if you plan to have top quality supporting mods) if you want to stay with a PT, they are good value. Alternatively you can opt for a FP 3586HTA which should be easy for you to get a hold of in FL. Regarding your engine build things sound fine for the 600whp level. The only change I would make is the rods and pistons. Manley rods are almost identical to Eagles in price and appearance, but that is about as far as the similarities go for the finished product. The Manley rods are much better quality and come as a weight matched set, the price difference is under $50. As for pistons I have used both Wiseco and CP and much preferred the CP's. When ordering do yourself the favour and order with upgraded bits. Order the pistons with the moly 9130 european metal pins and the rods with the +625 bolts. CP pistons with 9130 pins are good for 1,500HP and the rod bolts will help if you do decide to get a little more out of the available flow. Also, buy a micrometer, crank degree kit and rod bolt stretch gauge, they will prove invaluable.

Or ebay it as above. The 2871R/SR20 variant of this turbo uses the same compressor cover as an OEM T28 from an S14/15. I have not actually disassembled the RB version but I assume it will be the same.

You must be joking... You're willing to play games with RTV for an $8 gasket? Come on.... Even GCG would have one on shelf if you just asked. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Garrett-T28-Compressor-O-Ring-Turbo-200sx-Hybrid-Nissan-/320490240694?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4a9eb4fab6&_uhb=1

With any luck do you know if BW have plans to produce a T3 variant for this turbo?

lol the T04S is only a tiny bit larger than the T04E, the outlet size is the biggest change.

NOPE

LOL Garrett Dualboost, I hadn't bothered following garrett shiz for a long time. Double compressors is VERY interesting.

As said did you forget to reconnect the earths? Are you sure you have enough battery voltage? It is very common for aftermarket ECU's not to pulse ignition drivers when they have low voltage. Sounds simple regardless of what it ends up being.

an ss1pu is similarly sized to a -10/gtrs (core). However those turbos are normally sold in a .64 configuration, especially on a GTR so you will find twin .86 ss1pu to be quite laggy on a 2.6

Those are very 'rounded' numbers, too. An intake pipe on a skyline with a pod is very simple to make, and unless you want breathers and stuff added then you don't even need to have one made. A simple 90 degree bend with a pod on the end of it can be had. You can also source your line kit from Kando dynamic on eBay for less than I quoted. Where are you located?

Unless I can trade my existing manifold I'd be going T3, I just have a good bolt in kit I want to use. ill see what comes up in the lead time :-)

It would be for my built SR. Is cammed and forged. Ideally I want to see 500whp when pushed, am not sure the 7064 will get there despite the compressors advertised flow. Yet I am also worried the 7670 might not have enough poke down low.

Pretty steep. I'd want to be paying 200 for lines, 200 for an intake and not more than 500 for the dump and spacer plate. I would also expect these prices to accommodate install whilst on the job.

Are there any 7064 and 7670 .83 T3 results available? Preferably on 2L motors. Google tells me people either have larger EFR's with the .83 open or twin scrolls on the smaller ones. I am specifically considering T3 framed turbos ONLY at this stage.

bit of a catch 22 in my eyes... the 7670 is more likely meet your spool expectations but will probably max out by 450kw. the 8374 is likely to exceed 500kw but I am skeptical that you would have it all in by 4k.

1.05 7670

I have to agree, if shooting for lower 300s I would DEFINITELY go the Green over the Red. No 2 ways about it.