GTScotT

nonsense, look thru the dyno results thread... lost of ppl making 200+ before 5000 and hardly anyone under 250kw with sensible boost. If your aiming for 250kw, no more, I say GTRS is cream, 270+ 2835/3071 but then you run into other issues (money n that).

double post FTL

OK. i havent read all posts, but sounds like the mechanic had grounds to blame the pump. now if he checked fuel pressure inline at the rail, he could have possibly overlooked the fuel reg. to test, find a way to clamp the hose after the reg. to do this i usually use vise grips. DO NOT drive the car like this for long, it will kill the pump and/or spring a leak. I know this is a very crude method people, but it will overcome the possibility of the reg, i recommend you try.

well yes, it could have come up earlier, yet as ive suggested it could be intermitent and pressure/flow dependant. also the oil pickup as trent said could easily do that too, i have also heard of bad gaskets on oil pickups causing all sorts of issues. so as stated, drop sump and inspect... but if not confident please get a mech you TRUST to do it, you need to retorque everything 100%. the original builder would be preferable for the job.

+1 can vouch for this

as stated above, sounds like oil pressure is an issue... you already mentioned you lost pressure once already.. if it were to lose pressure for a while it would result in damage capable of making a knock sound that only appears when oil pressure drops slightly. the theory i am suggesting is that you now have a clearance issue on one of your bearings which is only evident when oil pressure OR flow is low a gap is created and you hear the noise.

read the last post on page one mate, the GTRS is a 2871 52T in HKS housings. the 2535 has yet to be mentioned. geraus, if you want to do a budget HKS equivilant turbo, HP in a box sell the GT2871R 52T turbo with a "RB" housing and S15 style comp cover for $1925. that should be hell easy to set up and I believe will net you within reasonable amount to the HKS GTRS, provided the exhaust housing is a .63..... I would be interested to see a 56T version combo'd with a .82 RB housing on an RB25

I wouldnt count on them for a 6... have beat one with a mitsu express van in the past.. actually had a few mates with them also, they were quick, but only when you wringed their necks with an absolute passion. the avg driver got killed by 1.3L charades. driver and conditions are the major contributors mostly (bad launch etc). I dont see the need to stay rwd either, gay hype. everything has its good points.

those bolt on spacers with adaptor are too long anyway, you will need to get an exhaust shop to make one that angles the turbo which you can then get them to add on your 50mm attachment altho i cant take credit for the info, i wont say who told me for his sake

if your a P plater looking for a fast legal car, you got the wrong one. the skyline is cool, handles well, goes fairly well, IS a SKYLINE (bonus points in itself) etc. but unfortunately, FWD is king of the traffic light hussle in the P platers world. an SSS/NXR will see 100 in 7s, and a DC2R or DC5R in 6. there are many other similar options.. basically, anything of comparable straight line performance (be it all performance IMO) will either have a turbo or be significantly more expensive.

if the 2540 is a 2876, i dont think it would be all that RB25 friendly, a 76mm comp wheel on such a small turbo is just going to see it die too early in the rev range... while the 2530 is actually a smaller turbo its also not going to max out the hotside as quick. food for thought.

Giggity Giggity Sunshine Thats the real deal. Cant wait to see results from adding the gate, tho wish you were doing it off the manifold instead

How about following the craze. Current shitfight is getting the ultimate GT30 based setup. So how about a manifold that doesnt have the turbo sitting up in the cops face, has a provision for a 44mm Vband gate (Vband so an adaptor is easily welded on) and does not foul a GT3076R anywhere. Something that we can buy, bolt to the motor with gate and turbo, have a new dump pipe made and have working, cop friendly, high power capable, steady boost control ability for those who want to run smaller housings and readily available at the above mentioned great price. I think your about to be rich.

check the ebay feedback, it seems to be good, noone with fitment issues for the GT3076 RB25 kits and a few sold. message the seller and ask about materials used, highly doubt it is cheaply made. alot of items that seller has are OEM.

Man you are the excitable type arent you lol, I thought you were happy with your hypergear?? If you have the part numbers to the core and housings you want you can order the turbo through GCG. Example, call and give them the part number for the 2860R-10 with a .60 AR front cover and nissan RB specific .63 rear housing, you will end up with something extremely similar to a HKS GTRS differences would be the HKS exhaust housing is probably better suited to the application (the GCG one is a VG30 reproduction i believe) and the HKS comp cover is port shrouded. Make some phone calls and report back to us Geraus Giggity Giggity

the GCG is a good unit, they dont play games there. 800 is a decent price too you may want to snap that up Kailaas they charge 1950 i think? for their hiflow service.

like all hot topics, doesnt seem to provide a clear concise answer. from what i can tell, the VE30DE ecu is tunable, but noone mentioned if its definately nistune compatible and what type... but if we can even get that ecu in aus it wouldnt be worth much.. might look into 'borrowing' one of those ecus if i can loc one EDIT: all skip specs used VG30s and later VQ30s, so its a no go for a local ecu

ill giv u 200 bucks, let you know how it goes too lol throw up a part number off the ID tag so we can help work out what it is. HKS turbos are built from garretts so nothing new.

dont bother finding random banjos and hoses here there and everywhere. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbo-Oil-Water-lin...=item45f12bcd70 thank me later.

i once got an intercooler setup done on a turbo NXR, i thought it had this new awesome induction noise! later i realised the massive high pitched scream was from the back 2 nuts on the turbo to manifold gasket my (former) mechanic had undone for a little extra revenue. with the above mentioned topics, they are all fairly simple, give them a go. check all ur pipping, and if not buy a turbo and dump gasket and take the turbo off for inspection. if its rooted you will know when it comes off, and ull probably find its an easy job anyhow. GL

if its the rubber hose from the bov itself onto the return pipe just slip it off and go buy a length of the same ID hose from any auto place and replace it. simple. but dont leave it, as said it will create stuff ups on the AFM signal.

No soup for you! Pwnd stagea 25det auto, bilsteins catback boostup giddyup. Doo eet.

Any indication on info like this please? am very interested in your service stao, still need help to make up my mind.

Stao, any result from the 2530 spec turbo yet? Im aiming for 250rwkw but want response like a HKS GTRS. I have a both the stock 2IU turbo and a stock VL RB30 turbo to work with... maybe mix and match?

lol SNSW or NS all the same when it comes to CA bashing. the turbo usually reffered to as the T28 is the OEM turbo found in S14s and S15s. personally i dont believe the hype behind the JDM S15 ballbearing turbo so if ur not a fanboy dont bother. a disco aka discopotato has a a couple of milimeters more on both compressor and turbine wheels and are in slightly bigger trims. basically they take a mild amount more to spin up and flow abit more up top. "T28" http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_466541_4.htm Disco http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...RS_739548_5.htm Cheapest option would be to find urself a used T28 out of an S14, thats the way id go anyhow. GL