GTScotT

Trent, you seem to be the resident guru on intercoolers.. Could you tell me if you have seen any successful track cars running the standard crossflow (pass over radiator) intercooler kit by justjap? Am liking the price, want the cross flow for sake of engine bay setup.. but dont know if i should jimmy in a GTR cooler (i have lying around) with a cooling pro pipe kit OR just buy a cooling pro kit. options are: cooling pro crossflow kit, GTR cooler with cooling pro pipes choped to suit, GTR cooler with end tanks chopped and 2.5" outlets put on straight with cooling pro pipe kit. Would be good to hear some opinions..

get another T28 mate CAs and T28s are a great combo, as stated above they have also been known to rock on with Disco's. Personally I have had extensive experience with a stock bottom ended CA that had a T28 and then upgraded to a disco. Ran at 1.3 bar on the disco and made the 200rwkw range with REALLY good response. That was years ago, car is now a drift cop and original motor/turbo combo are still going today 200,000+ ks by now id say (last saw it in 06 with 180 lol). Im sure NS has tried to SR bash you just because your turbo blew LOL.. ull get that -_-. also, the disco gives a little more top end than the regular T28, but midrange on the OEM type T28s is great, still with 'similar' peak figures. Get a T28 from an S14 or S15 and ur laughing GL

labour ranges between 500 to 1500, expect the later. backyarders will do it for 500 as will small time mechanics and bigger places will charge the 1k range. there are other associated costs you should take into consideration for the cars reliability. do the job once do it right. replace hoses and gaskets on the motor that are otherwise a bastard to do when its in the car, and you may want to get a new clutch kit too, saves paying the labour twice when the current one dies. as for legality, thats a silly question isnt it. if in NSW you get a blueslip for an engine change and your off and racing, other states would be similar but duno what u bananas call your RWC.

You obviously think the world is simpler than it is. http://www.google.com.au/search?client=fir...G=Google+Search 1UZFE, real V8. Now go on, Git, don't embarrass yourself any further.

agreed on the boost control, while mine (E4) in factory trim held 1 bar to redline from the 2xxx it made it, a 'friend' using a factory E9 turbo and eboost2 pushes 27 flat to redline (on the stock 10pound actuator). yet the E9 has a revised comp cover, where as i later had issues seeing more than 1.2 to redline on my E4 turbo, yet it had no issue of 2+ in the midrange (altho i still want to burn that HKS EVC5). As for the shaft speed vs exhaust flow, thats more of a personal theory im still toying with... hard to describe at this stage.

while i agree with you on the comparability of the maps due to AR differences Juggernaut1, the point you have mentioned has pushed the 52T further in favor. thinking logically, the bigger housing will broaden both ends of the map, making the centre islands larger also. its a simplistic theory, the larger housing being harder to fill will obviously surge less, just as top end will also increase as flow capabilities do. being no rocket scientist it would be hard for me to back this up, but id also be quick to assume the larger housing would also see higher shaft speeds at the same exhaust gas flow (this is ONLY a personal theory). Ash, id say the hardest compressor maps to get are for OEM turbos. considering where we usually see turbos fall off the map with our 'rough maths' i think you would be hard pressed to find an OEM turbo staying within the top 60% by redline, let alone once were boosting and often revving them harder than the manufacturer planned. id say the key to the difference between the map and actual results is in the tuning. while the turbos trying hardest in the middle of the map, shaft speed acceleration slows as you reach redline rather than being exponential which would see charge temps plateau rather than rise stupendously, coupled with EGTs topping out at a certain point due to timing and fueling changes in the tune, i think that side of the map is more than managable. one thing to take note is in the factory evo ecu's, the top end of the tune see's target AFRs hit 9:1 and timing slamming rock bottom of 1s 2s and zeros, compare that to where you get the maximum ZING from the turbo and you can see why it might be like that. i always find it hard to put thought process to words, so hopefully im making sense..

lol each island indicates a turbos efficiency range, the higher the % the more efficient it is.. idealy you would want a turbo that as your motor spools and revs it passes straight thru the centre island of the map. in this case iv picked max boost (i was conservative as the 1.5 results were far too biased to the smaller comp) then plotted at that boost only to show surge or overheating. if you cross the edge of the map to the left side the compressor surges, if you cross the right side it starts pumping hot air. both are bad.

ask and you shall receive the following are the comp maps for GT37 series compressors 56T and 52T based on 90% VE and calculated at 1.4 bar boost from 3000 to 8000rpm in 1000rpm intervals the best part is, copy those values into the 3071 map I believe these will come in handy later for people wanting to do the research anyhow.

Just like real V8s, all noise no action

ladies ladies.. the curve is the curve so lets all calm ourselves and dry the tears the dyno is a tuning tool not the be all and end all of how fast the car is, we all know 3071s are faster... lol this was one of the current informative GT30 threads but it seems to have gone off track a touch back to it shall we?

Can anyone confirm if the Kansai strut brace will or will not fit an ECR33, GTST? need to know if it clears the motor and stock crossover pipe.

Correction Harey, he wants 300rwkw like his old setup yet without the lag. Hav u considered having a manifold made yet Justin? if you were in sydney I could recommend someone who would probably charge less than the average expensive manifold with quality IMO far superior. If you can find someone up there in banana town who you think is that good I say get that done.. as fancy as you want it and gate where u want it also..

stock shocks and springs in the rear should be the easiest setup to launch down the strip. i am also looking at the BC's from JJ as i use to have a set of the 'dreaded' G4s and with some road time tuning i actually had people on the evo forums believe i had ohlins in there.. HAHA.. it just took quite abit of time to tinker with spring seating and every click of the damper made a difference. by no means am i saying they are as good as ohlins.. but they were good enough to fool the average joe and did the job quite well as for that external gate, thats rather nifty isnt it lol. im sure that will fetch a pretty penny when ur done with it also, read the thread i link to below.. it will give you a better idea of the SAFC capability.. help you to decide, you seen switched on enough. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ru...fc-t308500.html

i cant confidently say it definitely doesnt, yet it would be the first ive heard of it. its not exactly an effective method of tuning either way tho is it? i still think a proper tune would be in order.. an SAFC in my eyes is a good tool to get your stock setup to jump a little higher.. not something you would use to get an aftermarket turbo to suit.

Hows he going to change the afm is he uses an SITC and SAFC, neither can support the change in AFM signal for the ecu? this would require a proper remap rather than an SAFC. my recommendation would be to get yourself a nistune properly tuned up and try find a set of cheap injectors and a Z32.. unless you go a hiflow i see the injectors and ecu being your only thing keeping you at 230.. may aswell spend a tad more and end up with 250 or even 270.. especially when your making mention of such turbos as 3071s. personally if your looking for 230, id buy a GTRS kit and get a really Gun 250.. with the above changes to your plan I have mentioned. price has gone up, but reliability and quality has also gone up ALOT too. also, get some pics of this stock turbo with wastegate arrangement lol id love to see it

have a look at the comp map Dale popped up on pg4, compare that to the map of the 3071... my findings and opinion leaned in favor of the 3071.. while on the map only a little, by my thoughts and theory it was a clear call... 3071 was a whole island more efficient in midrange, not AS borderline for surge and a decent whack better using the factory rev range @ max boost. tho results listed by simon in the rb25+3076 thread provide new light on the 3076 .63 horizon.. ive only really been ruling them out based on .82 results.. yet the .63 results seem to be alot more flavorsome today.. and we all know the RB25 is excellent on the comp map of that turbo...

thanks simon, appreciate you clarifying the setup so well gives me alot more faith.

care to clarify what setup that is? fairly standard RB25 or worked or more? 3076 56t? .6 surge slotted cover? .63 or .82 rear IW or gated? i dont like to assume, and would help me in picking the winning combo... i dont want the surge cover unless i truly need it.

Dale, always one step ahead of me haha... thats perfect mate thanks, i can get busy with it now. Dont ask me why i didnt think of that already LOL ill PM you the graph once its plotted kwikr33, your still stabbing in the dark. take a better look, ppl have fixed that issue with big can actuators while others have never had the issue.. each setup is different and the issue causing it different along with it.

anything other than factory is a defect, an external gate is a defect and nothing more. if it is plumbed into the exhaust system like it should be it an engineer can provide a certificate to legalize its use.

who the hell said they cant hold boost without an external gate? and who said they wont make their power unless its at 20psi? 20psi on a 3071 is off the map for efficiency on an RB25 by redline. sounds like you were looking for lemon party but found the current GT30 thread...........

I agree with you on many points there, perhaps you merely need to witness what I have in order to help make a decision. If your interested your welcome to PM me and ill give you my msn or something where Ill share anything I know on the topic. Dont get too far ahead of yourself tho, im no scientist like some on this forum.. This is just my chosen topic of interest.. knowing enough to save money and pick out a good turbo is actually fairly simple stuff, and there are benefits to doing so over a kit.. benefits I intend on endeavoring to find lol. The deal with 2835s and 3071s is the cropped turbine wheel. AFAIK the 2835 turbine wheel was a 60mm GT30 turbine cropped down to something similar to a GT28 sized wheel to better suit smaller housings for response type applications. The actual benefits/disadvantages to the cropped wheel I am currently trying to understand.. but from what it seems, boost control on the full sized wheel in a small housing could be an issue.. Hopefully disco will come to my aid on the topic of the cropped turbine in the 2835.. a why and a resulting benefit/disadvantage would just about fulfill my personal required knowledge on the 3071 platform.. Then I have the fun of moving onto comparing that to a 52T cartridge.. which im currently looking for comp maps to plot.. garrett dont have them up. Anyone got the comp map for the 52T 76mm compressor?

lithium is meeting and exceeding those figures basically untuned. im assuming its going to smash those numbers once he gets it all tuned up.

Bozodos, you really dont strike me as a person who cares much for your chosen hobby. I dont mean to offend you, there are some who want to know the ins and outs of their car and others who just want to drive the thing. That is the whole point of a 'kit', reference the results to what you want and buy the one that matches. As specified today, if you had a factory R33 GTST a HKS kit would mate right up and off you go. Speaking of 'common sense' as you put it, your entire confusing saga could have been avoided if you had just accepted your interest level in the topic before you started. Its literally as simple as looking what is available to you, HKS kits, hiflows, they all are very easy to bolt up and get working. All you needed to do was reference what was available to you with 30+ pages of results, then pick your poison. HKS provide for the following, 250KW GTRS, 280KW 2835, 300KW 3037. all come in kits and despite all us other idiots talking about the ultimate combinations of similar based turbos to our applications, we will probably all be hard pressed to beat the HKS alternative. Sounds like ur sorted anyway, the 2835 is a fine piece of kit, GL.