GTScotT

stock ftw, lots of RBs doing big performance on stock cams. get an exhaust cam gear and dial it in 3-4 degrees retarded, as stipulated in many threads u will find. +1 for management and fuel pump, very very important

noone said anything about them being universal, just ask and you shall receive. I spoke to GCG 2 days ago, they supply a turbo built to the housing sizes and core you want along with water and oil lines, a spacer plate and studs and a new dump pipe to suit RBs for $2950 thats not the CHEAPEST option but surely is if you want a bolt up kit. this is also a garrett IW housing and a dump GCG have made to suit the stock skyline position, i am yet to confirm this with them but i belive if you have a 2 peice dump on your car this one will bolt up as Mark from GCG said it is designed to be a direct replacement for the factory cast item made to suit the garrett housing.. so im assuming it replaces it position wise but with the garrett flange. all too good to be true. time to man up and read a little more, saying stuff like "f**k around buying parts here there and everywhere and also having to know exact specs" will really come back to bite you in the ass when you realise your setup is not meeting your expectations. mistakes are one thing, being lazy and negligent is another.

WB o2 and drive it around. i bet the problem is at idle and low speed driving being too rich rather than WOT

like nismoid said above, thats the old T04S wheel.. their not as efficient as the 6 blade wheels, less flow down low. but it should be a fair whack better than the 3582 job you had.. is that going to be using the same cover as your last one or u going whole new turbo all together?

it is true that P plates are not allowed to drive modified cars, but which p plater doesnt own a modified car and get away with it? cry moar. its a rather nifty mod you have done there, very simple, obviously effective. i would have tried plugging in a DE ecu/injectors/afm for better economy and drivability but hey if its working OK just leave it. fact of the matter is when you do end up putting the turbo back on the car will go back to exactly how it should be. quick service along with it and new plugs and its back to normal. the link really does put meaning to the name 'boostlosing' doesnt it.

RBs drifting *shudder* lol ill give you 10 bucks, ok deal. seriously you should contact the ppl u bought it from and tell them its the wrong product, its some form of hybrid and this is the real 3076R PN, its meant to have a .60 surge slotted front cover and a 6 blade wheel and im not happy yada yada yada its bnew so i dont see why they cant order u the right turbo and swap it over... unless u..... fapped on it in excitement.... that changes everything.

basically, i would do one of 2 things.. 1. use it as is (wait for disco to tell us what is wrong with this particular turbo) 2. send it back to tweakit. the link you posted quotes a .60 AR which is not what you got, you can also go as far to say that its not an actual 3076R (even tho it is). give them the part number for the correct core and tell them you want it with the proper .60 surge slotted cover its meant to have. if your gunning for power, perhaps the existing turbo isnt so bad.. i have a feeling it will make more top end than the alternative.

Unfortunately you have the 7/14 blade version... *que disco for tech salvage* what you want to know about it should be available in the following two threads... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ne....html&st=40 + http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ga...-L-t142989.html i have been reading about GT30 stuff for weeks religeously, yet cant for the life of me remember what the story is with this particular type of turbo..

most expensive JDM exhausts come with a cannon. majority of cars on this forum have a cannon. owners choice. 1150 sounds fine, extractors are the most expensive part. try get the exhaust shop to supply all components as if you supply your own cannon they are likely to swallow the costs where as they would probably supply a decent muffler included in the price if you didnt ask for a hotdog in the middle too, should make it sound nice. GL

ohh ok, if u have had a t3 flange welded onto it, it should be fine. what about wastegate? i dont see a wastegate outlet on the manifold?

Great, thanks for this write up. cleared up a few things for me with the stupid window. damn thing was open while i was working just as it started to rain... then it gave up LOL.

RE001s aye, nice write up mate

yeah, iv taken note of those items. it does sound like the turbo might be rooted, but im being optimistic in the hope that you are mistaking fuel for oil with the smoke. i still recommend you try the above before taking the turbo off. driving it home like that will block your cat etc. your better off putting a pod on the end of your cooler and driving it home with the turbo disconnected all together.. try put the AFM between the cooler pipes while ur at it.. then u can baby it home

as i already said, did you check for pulse at the back of the ecu aswell? if theres no pulse coming out the back of the plug on the ecu then either your ecu is shot or your plug is not seating properly, you work it out.

firstly, check if it is infact the turbo thats blown. the first thing ull need to do is look for anything obvious, like blown off cooler pipes which sound more like ur problem. if you cant find anything like that wrong with it, take the intake pipe off the turbo and see if you can spin it freely, if you can and it feels fine, then try start the motor and see if the turbo spins up, if it does take off the cooler pipe from the turbo and see if its blowing alot of air out when u rev it etc. have u got a boost gauge? it will help if you do? yet list your other mods, i really think uv popped a cooler pipe off.

check for voltage pulse at the injector plug, then at the ecu's output. if the ecu is putting out signal and its not getting to the injector itself, clearly there is a breakdown in the wiring somewhere between A and B.

have used both. DBA 4000 seem to be a very soft material, no end of warping with these on a previous street car. have spoken to a few others in the know, this seems to be agreed. Only used RDA for a short period. seemed like a harty rotor, pads caught fire then stopped without cool off, did not warp. Yet, was used in combo with combustable bendix ultimates.. stopping performance was pathetic, having never used ultimates before and having them catch fire on the street im not sure if the issue was purely the pads or rotor too. for reference this combo replaced ferodo DS2000 (ferodo formula) and stock rotors which had no such issues, and months of pad burning driving and thousands of ks saw them finally down to the metal and a minor warp on the OEM rotors. food for thought.... OEM FTW.........

the best thing you can do is get under it and look for it. it can be any number of things check everything is tight and check all bushes etc for movement.

by any chance you did spin the shaft and stuff making sure both sides of it spin right lol, like u havent shit an exhaust wheel without knowing it have you haha other than that look for big leaks, but somehow i doubt it.. based on the offboost drivability i mean

that was a fairly mint series 3 you are destroying. best believe you will pay in the afterlife

that and the design contributes to its operation. internal design quality and actual build quality will go a long way to make sure it operates how its meant to.. a poorly constructed gate is likely to creep like mad.

that looks like a twin scroll T4 manifold? best thing to do would be identify what you have, then buy a new exhaust housing to suit that manifold OR a manifold to suit that turbo. I cant see a port for the wastegate on that manifold? does it have one?

Good to see shes running on all 6 now mate! that goes to show that even tho an injector is clicking away it could still be blocked internally. Props to you for working it out and adding an excellent thread for future reference.

sounds promising, look forward to seeing the results

the term your looking for is turbulence. the step down in size in the exhaust causes turbulence which slows down the flow of exhaust gas backing up the system. once the gas slows it cools and causes friction on itself, causing it to slow further and further preventing you from spooling.. till suddenly you get enough gas thru the turbo to spin it. next gear and ur back where u started, pushing shit up hill. that and the VCT issue paul has mentioned... poorly functioning VCT can and will make the motor a DOG to drive. you dont want to go building a turbo around these issues for the sake of it.. you want a turbo that works to your expectations when the motor is running how it should be.