GTScotT

+1 for nismo 740s, i have heard from a reliable source they are better to tune than most. also +1 for stock rail and stock FPR, get trade from nissan it shouldnt be too much. buying an aftermarket has zero advantage other than more useless bling bits you need to worry about at this level. if your going to run twin external pumps or some BS then by all means go for gold on an aftermarket

Thanks mate but no worries, I took the chance on trying the RB26 ecu and it worked. Issue was officially the ECU being a dud. Hope this thread ends up helping someone in future. JD

can someone at least tell me if running the GTR ecu with no dropping pack will harm it?

Hey guys, I got my R33 not too long ago with an electrical issue that Ive been tracking down. Originally the previous owner told me the car would stall going over bumps. Without having owned it for long I realized that it will also stall when I close the door hard. So after pulling the entire drivers side of the car apart and returning every bit of electronics back to stock, I still found nothing. Today I woke in my boredom and decided to work on it again. This time I decided I would give the fuel pump earth and ECU wiring a shot as per my search results. The fuel pump earth did jack shit although I then realized the car stalls when you play with the ECU. I found a few weird add on connections in the harness so got soldering and fixed up any of those clip on connectors with proper solder. Then while testing my luck banging the ecu with my screw driver to watch the revs drop and hunt, I banged it one last time.... and now it wont turn back on lol. Now to save me throwing an absolute hissy fit, I want to fit another stock ecu into the car and see if it runs. I only need to do so to test it, and the process will not take any longer than half an hour tops. My cars also in the middle of my backyard without a hope in hell of pushing it back up to its parking spot, and I own a jack russel. Since I got the car hes scratched every panel down to the metal by simply jumping on it to look over the fence. So, before I misplace my sanity and throw my dog onto the M5, can someone PLEASE OH PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE come for a drive to bankstown and lend me their ECU. If you have something in mind you would want in return, name it, maccas is just down the road as is a good servo etc.... but please be reasonable, I am deeply unemployed Im in bankstown, just off queen street bro, under the M5. PLIIZZ PLIZ PLIZ PLIZ I beg of you. My ECU model no is MEC-R521 A1 3Y15, and the car is a 93 R33 GTST, altho for this I think any R33 turbo ecu will do. also, if anyone knows about plugging in a RB20 or 26 ecu into it without re-pinning and without blowing it up, that would be great.... as I have access to both. Thanks, JD

pick a hose, any hose. preferably a vacuum hose. if your honestly stumped here, are you sure ull be able to find and fix a leak if you cannot identify a vac hose ? lol im not having a dig at you mate, just being realistic

my 93 r33 uses one of these, its the heater tap

ud hope so lol

and so your HKS EBC saga begins.. first ull try to work out how to use the thing, then when you have a doctorate in using something that has a GUI as primitive as a highschool calculator ull realize its a POS and HKS dont make anything good other than turbos. im no boost control noob, ive had a few and always been successful. ive sworn about this top bloke of an EBC many times on evooz. everyone will tell you to learn how to use it, then will tell u to get someone who knows how to tune it to do it, like ISMR. every EVC5 i have touched tuned by ISMR has no settings dialed in other than the desired boost at 1.5 bar and the duty set to 90. surprise surprise they also all ran 1.5 bar actuators. what a master of tuning. mine would never hold boost to redline, it would always drop back to actuator pressure, yet you could get it to spike to 2.8 bar without a problem. in the end i got rid of it for a profecB which i had used before and my issues were gone with it. to note, i have never seen a HKS controller work in a car that wasnt running actuator pressure, only 'heard' of them. have also uninstalled 2 other HKS models in mates cars and replaced with alternate units to resolve the same issue mine had. sorry to be so negative, but i really f-ing hate this boost controller. if it doesnt work out for you, i SERIOUSLY recommend pissing it off.. but it might just work out seeing as your not asking much of it. GL

disco disco disco... of all the wise things you have said over the years, this is the last thing i expected from you to be honest, ive never seen one. Yet an old rail and some brass work with a barb doesnt sound too hard to me mate, surely youd have thought of that yourself?

your kidding right? as in the GTR in that clip is totally destroyed, also is in the states, and the pics of it there are in a metal yard. knowing yanks that GTR probably got a few more cars piled ontop of it awaiting its turn to be put into the grinder. you cant honnestly be trying to say your planning to buy it? lol

the turbo back side of things definitely wont work, the dumps are completely different position. yet from the sound of things the catback could be made to work.

like what was said about the hole in the housing.. theres a right and a wrong way. that adaptor will work, but not optimal

for starters too small and secondly its a T25 flange. get it hiflowed by hypergear, cost alot less over all otherwise buy another stock unit 2nd hand.

have you inspected the cylinder for damage? is the reservoir cracked? all lines tightened well and not split? i doubt an internal leak as its running down onto the rail.

its a daughter board thats added onto the factory ecu enabling it to be re-tuned. somewhat similar to the concept of a powerfc yet not as convenient/capable

fabricating a decent custom manifold is usually a grand a pop, then you have turbos worth close to 3 grand a pop, plus dumps that are included worth atleast 600 to fabricate a pop along with a new hi volume sump pan worth god knows and oil feeds and returns. plus all the other shit it probably comes with. now if you really think 7k is expensive, do the car some justice and hand it in at the salvos or something on ur way to buy a charade and get a dirty little exhaust shop to make you a turbo kit.

theres a quick reference guide in this section stickied at the top of the page. inside you will find the powerfc FAQ there you will find instructions on hybrid PFC models. if you cant put two and two together from there, seriously dont bother. 5 seconds of search would have found it, now who has no idea what their on about? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fa...req-t64201.html and incase you really are blind: http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm and once again incase you get lost: http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#55 Search

you should claim compensation regardless of if the motors been running fine or not.

http://www.nengun.com/hks/special-turbo-system-set-up-kit the price is excellent, pick your poison with 3 different kits available. personally id get the 2530kai kit. once done you will need to do your cooler and induction plumbing, plus exhaust plumbing from the dumps back. you will also need an ECU and tune, along with other supporting mods such as injectors/fuel pump. the kit makes no mention of water lines too so you may also need to have a mechanic fabricate these. I forsee the price doubling with installation and the above listed from the original kits price. GL, just dont wind up on the 6 o clock news.

lol a year later lets hear it unless he tried to fix it before the wedding.... and... did not.. make it..

find a plug for your VCT solenoid, then work out which pin goes to what on the ecu. solder 2 wires to the plug you bought, and run them to the appropriate pins on the ecu. should be really easy. from what PM-R33 is saying you connect 12v from batter to one wire to the solenoid and run the other to pin 113 on the ecu. simple simple simple. BUT make sure you double check EVERYTHING as in how its wired and what pins what via a wiring diagram BEFORE you proceed. GL

what would be even better is work out what pin it is on the ecu and run a wire thru ur dash wouldnt you say EDIT: Beat me to it PM-R33!!

EMS makes me think there is a VCT issue, also tune could be a BIG thing. my money is on the combination of both, so realistically its all tune related.. maybe put the stock ecu back in and have the EMS piggy back (to retain VCT etc)

have you googled that little word? its probably something like a blitz access. cant be retuned by an ordinary shop and is probably tuned so hard as it is that you wouldnt dare push it harder. suggest you dyno it.

there is no link, im saying your lieing and have not read *read have not read enough* READEDREADDEREDAED the dyno results thread had everything you want to know, there is also the GT30 thread which will cover alot of the information you want about things that are smaller and cheaper (especially later) the 2871 Rb25 thread is also good as is the hypergear hiflow service thread. start reading you could cover it all in a couple of hours, and I guarantee you will find people with results equal to what your asking, 250kw and 3200rpm spool