GTScotT

its a great idea yet ure proberly better off just drilling holes for the bolts u need to get to, as doing it like u have would put alot more stress on the un reenforced part and might acuatly make the arm itself weaker under heavy loads as any flex or movment instead of being over the whole arm will be on the spot that isnt re inforced, also the spot that already has extra load as the castor arms bolt there

my gearbox cross memember bolted right up :S yet i cant get the clutch to bleed edit after 20 times or so it finaly bleed properly, now the tail shaft center bearing is screwed, should of cheaked better yet i found out why the crossmember bolted up, looked at the tag from the halfcut, and it says the car was an auto, so it was converted in japan, so thats why it fit, someone modified it already.

10 min in, and the $60 tool (pilot bush remover) and the auto bush is out, took about 5 goes though

a few more things to add as in converting my car at the moment (not on a hoist unfortutaly) make sure u install the brake pedal first and i did the clutch and i couldnt move the brake around enough to get it out so just ended up losening it off and unbolting the pedal itself and putting the manual pedal in the old bracket. a realy realy super long extention is the only way u will ever get those top bolts on the gearbox out, and the starter motor in a pain for the top bolt to. tommorow i get to take on the spigot bush...how fun

pm sent regarding manifolds and dumps

it appears that the colour u choose doesnt cover easy, get a can of the ground coat for it cover it with that, then apply the other paint and it should come up nice

if your still putting people on the list for these put me down to please

might be leaking from something, or the slave or the master cylinder might be dead, is the pedal hight and such normal, as ive seen a few cars snap the pedal bracket where it bolts to the firewall, yet i think a leak or dying part might be the answer as u said it wasnt disengading properly, and now isnt at all

gearbox is realy up to you, i would just use a 2nd hand one myself, yet it depends on the condition and what your willing to pay, if your happy to pay the 1200 for the gearbox then get it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...on-t104200.html all the info you should need

if its awd i was also wondering this, and what exactly in involved on the mechaincal side of things, as in what needs to be done custom, (chassis work ect) is it a matter of getting the gts4 running gear and hubs ect and bolting on? (my cars a r32 and a mate of mine had a gts4 frontcut hes not going to be using now)

i use one, it works not much better than a turbosmart ball and spring in my opionion, yet much better than all bleed type (needle valves) ive seen, it works instead of bleeding off excess boost it restricts boost from getting to the actuator by blocking it off till it has enough pressure at the ball to push back the spring

changine from a pod back to a box gives a diffrent sound straight away, you get a cleaner sound for the turbo, less of the induction roar, yet a more refind small sucking whisling noise, yet any change that you not 100% about you should take the car to someone who knows, as it can be hard to diagnoise sounds over the net just off a discription

if your oil gets low then theres not much lubrication for the engine parts, big end bearings wear out in no time at all if they go dry, freeway driving will do this, yet a l and a half and its over full doesnt sound like its riduclously low, yet if u thrashed it alot like that, just thrashing in general can wear them out, you will need to goto a mechanic, you should be able to get a rebuild, u can get the bearing changed and crank linished if its just the bearing.

not realy sure if this counts yet as its still going and im still going to be using it for around a month before i put my other motor and manual trans in Engine/Car: RB20DET / Auto R32 GTST (early 1991) Type of failure: rings and head gasket Factors influencing the failure: broken fuel pressure reg so no pressure, so badly leaned out on boost (all by previous owner) State of tune of the engine: stock, now running a bar of boost though until i change it soon Suspension and tyres: stock at the time, now stock with gtr 32 rims and bridgestone grid 2's Oil used and service interval: unsure General comments: comp test showed up 120, 120, 120, 120, 0, 30, then a wet test showed up, 150,150,150,150,145,30 not good lol yet will be swaping it for a spare i have, found out about the compression as soon as i got the car, suspect it to be the stuffed fpr as it would do a thing similar to cut even on stock boost if i floored it and wouldnt like going about 5500 rpm, saw air fuel ratios on my turbo timer to be stupid (said like 16's and 17:1 on boost, like starting normalish them climing as the boost went up, suspected oxygen sensor, changed it, same, changed pump, then kinked the fuel line to test the reg and suddenly it says 11's and 12:1 on boost even when i turned it up to a bar, so now has a sr20det reg on it

quick note as ive forgetting this before, remove speedo cable

there is a legal rate that all cars in australia must flash between, cant remember what it is off the top of my head, fairly decent size range though, also on my 32 i noticed it doing this, stupid thing has 2 blinker globes in the corner lights, took me a while to relalise

for the few hundred extra just get the full system now

thanks for your help, ill need to contact DOTARS to get the import approval, becasue the few other places i spoke to today said even though it had held registration in nsw previously i still need that documentation yet i dont need the tag thanks

Hey all, always loved skylines and yet couldnt seem to afford one, and being a 3rd yr panel beater i decided to get my self a reparable write off, found one at the right price from a reputable salvage dealer, got my halfcut to repair it, repaired the car and now went to get a blue slip now even though this car was previously registed in the country and is listed on revs as a repairable write off, the guy tells me i need to have a compliance plate besides the japanese one, this car, like most of my friends imports only has the plate with a vin number starting with 6u9000 then the vechiles vin after it, and no other tags except the jap one, now i have been told i also needed a australian complience plate to be able to get this car re registed. i know the new imports have them, yet i know my car and alot of other older imports (r32 and silvias) dont have this other complience plate only the new number pop rivited on, so what do i need to do to get this thing registed as i know my friends have gotten things similar to this registed in the past, i love my new car, had it repaired for a couple of weeks now and cant wait to drive it yet im stuck here. also if ive started getting a blue slip one place, and they have said the above even though they have started to fill out the paper work can i take my car elsewhere to be passed? if so can anyone recomend a place that can help me, im in sydney and would like the place to be within 30 min or so of hurstville thanks scott

try nissan directly as they might be able to order one from japan for you

if its under the paint then its the clear lifting off the paint, thats bad and would need to be re painted, yet i cant realy tell from the pics, do the spots feel funny like a film sort or? if not then it might just cut and polish off, yet dont try a buff until u know as if its the clear a buff will destroy it

needed to post 3 times?

hey, just got it then, and about this time last night, i cant do anything on the fourms at all weather im logged in or not when it happens

Hey all, Trying to get my r32 GTST on the road and i need to following bits a front swaybar link a front castor rod either side will do i suspect there the same anyway and i might need a front Left hand upper control arm as i was sold one off a 300zx and told it was the same and its not so im going to see if i can swap if with the right one if not then i need one. prefered items in sydney thanks scott

hey how much for the ecu and afm posted to sydney? very interested postcode 2220 pm me thanks scott