GTScotT

Buyer beware: There is currently a supply issue with Tomei cams.. I recently had a lubrication issue with my motor that saw quite bad damage to my Tomei sticks. I replaced every relatable part and really struggled to get another pair of Tomeis, which is when I found out about this apparent supply issue from multiple stockists. No names, but most of the big local guys are talking about removing them from shelf as they are too hard to get ATM. I was told there was a 5 month wait to get the ones I purchased and they could only supply 2 pairs. They did however sneakily send out a lot of left overs from a custom order in place of both 256 and 264s and many stockists were simply selling them on. Moving on from this, the brand new lifters I installed turned out to be faulty and failed within an hours use. I drove the car home on the noisy lifters and opened the motor to find that the brand new cams had copped pretty bad wear already (just from noisy lifters). I've never seen damage that bad from noisy lifters, its shocking and cries out to me that their little 'supply issue' is not so much related to demand as it is to quality. I just thought I would chime in with a warning as I am down a set of cams and am unsure what to make of it. Will most likely be going another brand and forking out for the touch up tune as a result. GL

Tool skill being a quarter of it, sure. The other 3 quarters lie in first hand experience, most of which can be read on forums like this and are authored by people like those in this thread. Just need to be bothered enough to read, and read for long enough, so that you can save that 10k for something more important.

Drive in drive out at a shop - prepare to get $$ raped. If price is a question it's best to learn to do this yourself, rather than pay anyone. As already noted the factory makeup is already well equipped enough to hold what you want so a little over engineering on pistons, rods and studs should be more than adequate, and is something any reasonable mechanic can achieve with a little brain power. You will spend 5 grand doing this yourself and knowing you did everything 100% or 15 grand at a shop which would more than likely have their local reconditioner assemble the motor for them. I have a few friends in the industry and this is the general norm, these big name shops seldom actually assemble the motors post machining. Those motors have a tendancy to come back with clearance/tolerance issues and/or issues with cleanliness leading to bad contamination damage. I am rebuilding 2 motors right now previously built by pros with these exact flaws (I am not a mechanic). Do it once, do it right, do it yourself. My 2c.

A few observations; You want to retain standard manifold, have more response and hit 350kw. Cannot be done. Pick 2 of the 3 only. Just to reaffirm my position.. Going to the twin scroll will make it the opposite of the 'more aggressive' that you are asking for. Here are your two options based on the requests you are currently making: 1. Run E85 and max out the 3037 as is to get as close to 350kw as possible. 2. Swap to a GTX3071 core and run E85 to get probably 20kw less than the 3037 but a reasonable amount more response and possibly a little more punch.

Run the dampers at maximum and work your way back until it doesnt feel like a rock. Cheap coilovers don't have good dampening ability so you generally need to overcompensate with the damper settings. Running them too low will make the ride a lot harsher as the heavy springs will be doing all the work.

Damn I didn't even think to mention subframe positioning, I keep assuming those mods are the norm. I've got pineapples in place which are locking the subframe at maximum height. The diff is a helical from an S15 with a 4.3 ratio, hook up from this is good. Always predictable, pulls the nose in rather pushes the arse out. Non HICAS in the S14. Adjustable toe rods are rose jointed and near new, as are the camber and castor. Haha no rear ARB, that would possibly be quite scary. I really want to be able to get the gas on earlier with a bit more confidence, grrr.

GTSBoy: Sorry to throw a spanner in the works, I was SURE they were F6R6 but have just looked online and found that Tein list them as F6R4... That would probably explain why the car has a lot of rear end traction for what it is. Sorry for killing your time on explaining the suggestion, my error. Now comes the part I hate. I've analysed your response a few times and have noted a few key points surrounding frequencies and variation between high and low speed driving, and am getting the impression you are basing advice on the fundamentals of regular street driving. The reason why this is the part I hate is because I don't like being that guy talking about how fully sick they drive, so don't get me wrong here. I'll explain more. For regular driving most people think the car is close to stock. Its solid, firm, well behaved, absorbs bumps well etc.though the car feels incredibly light on power, and the lift I'm describing is when I'm trying to use upward of 70% throttle. In the last couple of weeks I have been fiddling with boost control and the car has come off the ground twice when fully loaded in 3rd. Not exactly what I would consider low speed nor low frequency. I am actually trying to resolve the opposite of this, where I'm going fast and the wheel cops a reasonably hit from the road. The whole exit speed thing does make sense in what you were saying before, but after checking advertised rates I am a little confused again. I guess the trick may be in ARBs but I am not sure at the moment. Originally I was leaning heavily to a stiffer setup with larger diameter monotube shocks. Now not sure what to do or think, wishing I could just work it out for myself..

Are you sure about this? I'm aware that dropping the rear rates is going to make it have more traction as it will be able to squat more, but how will it also help out of corners? Once this issue is sorted im fairly sure that I will need a bit more resistance all round to compensate for the increased corner speed. Maybe new sways front and rear will make the car feel firmer on the road? And perhaps an increase in front spring rate will give the effect you are describing? Or do you feel the softer rear will definitely be better? lol I expected this for an answer.

lol you first

17x8 +15 front 215/45 Potenza RE002 17x9 +28 rear 235/45 Potenza RE002 Offsets are being achieved with spacers to give the car 20mm more track than standard with 20mm wider front track than rear (factory ratio front to rear). As noted the cars got a lot of traction in most ways, but its less than stable when you want to try use that traction to its fullest. I really want to push it out of corners but its possibly squatting and picking up the front too much when I do.. Which I believe would also be why when on power it tends to want to catch air (squatts a lot and picks the front up). Cheers man. Can you confirm if these are MM or degrees? I need to re centre my steering wheel as I went to a quick release so will get these done when I do.

Morning all, Whilst I'm not currently a skyboat captain I am a diahard SAUer and am looking for some direction re my wannabe F14 fighter jet (read; S14 that struggles to stay on the ground). I've recently finished my motor setup and have had it tuned, which resulted in 295rwkw on a DD roller.. Its definitely motoring along when set to 'loud'. For reference its the usual SR business with a GTX3071R. The problem I'm having is that the car seems to want to catch air with the smallest bump in the road, and generally wants to break loose a lot. Let me be clear though, the car has a lot of cornering traction (I fall out of the seat before it understeers) and it has a lot of straight line traction for putting power down. Its when I want to use BOTH that things get silly, AND the obvious issue of taking flight on bumps. Now I know everyones going to say that its normal for the amount of power etc. but I really do want to hear some feedback on what others have done to make their cars more manageable. What changes and mods have been performed that will make the car more 'seated' on the road and generally able to belt a little harder through the twisties. The existing chassis setup as follows: Tein superstreets 6/6kg (quite smooth and comfortable, generally absorb bumps well) Castor rods Rear camber arms Rear toe arms (full camber and toe adjustment) The alignment as follows: 0 toe front 2mm toe in per side rear 2 degree camber front 1.2 degree camber rear So, what sort of things will help keep this thing better grounded? Heavier spring rates? Fatter sway bars? A different alignment? And what will be the side effects if any? I want to drive the car in a little more anger, which was easily achieved @ 240kw. Please give some suggestions on what could aid this. Cheers!

+1 A good EBC makes a world of difference. Going from gate pressure to now running an EBoost Street40 has made a remarkable difference to my car.

I've only been in 2 GTX3071 powered cars, though have experienced a myriad of GT3076 and can say the GTXs definitely have the upper hand. To the point, OP is asking about doing a twin scroll upgrade to get a little more response. Dollar for dollar I am more than confident that the swap to the GTX will get him the little extra zing he's after without the flatter feel. Whether or not it is really a worthwhile change is as subjective and dependent on personal preference as can be, but I think the comment serves to answer the question.

Guess who's back??!! Had my car tuned by Anthony a few weeks ago and couldn't be happier. The car runs like a dream and has never been as well behaved as it did after Anthony had a play. Well behaved stops at anything past 20% throttle though as Anthony managed a stout 295rwkw from my SR on 98 with the GTX3071R. Anthony was also the most straight up person I have ever worked with in this sort of environment who took on my feedback and suggestions as we wen't along. Anything we were unsure about was discussed and all alternatives were considered. I couldn't ask for better service!! Anyone wanting a GREAT tune should go the distance and see Anthony at Guilt toy racing development. I totally recommend.

If you changed to twin scroll it would do these 3 things: - Make boost a little earlier - Not push you as hard in the seat when it does - Cost a lot of money to do My recommendation: Replace the 3037 cartridge kit with a GTX3071 and keep your .84 EWG setup. Known winning formula. Case closed!

My response was moreso in reference to a hybrid thing of potentially mismatched technologies, althouth in respect of this question I would say no. I don't. The current field feedback doesn't appear to indicate a void between the two that would necessitate a new product, particularly considering the smaller demographic at the target outputs. Most of the early comments (admittedly from the likes of FR) read to the tune of "go bigger, you won't miss anything". Sometimes its good to roll back and have a second read of the thread to form a better opinion on this sort of thing. A varied knowledge base like what most full-time SAUers have leaves our opinions a little tainted, and I feel we may be searching for a 64mm alternative purely because other hot-topic competitor outfits have them. Correct me if I am wrong but even FP have jumped on the PTE sizing bandwagon. Anyhows, such is another opinion.

My brain says buy a 9180 and be a lot happier.

Lol Darren I don't fit in the S14. Currently considering chopping part of the floor to mount the seat lower. Furthermore, it was a quote from the first Harry Potter book. I won't go there on that last bit. I almost need counselling for it.

Reversion is not caused by the BOV, in fact a bov would help prevent it if done properly. I also don't believe in the pepsi can method, no no no. Reversion is the AFM reading a signal from what is coming back out of the turbo. So when you shift and your turbo makes that zututu noise that would be causing reversion. Reversion is most likely to happen when you vary the throttle or throttle off while driving. Especially when under load and then closing the throttle. What, you want to pick the time??? I thought you wanted to borrow my Z32? Suddenly it seems like I owe you something Yeah ok, we can try for afternoon. I cant guarantee I will be able to but I can try.

Have you seen my fix for reversion? I guess you will tomorrow.

I'm in Liverpool now, can you do.... Sun up? Sunday is ladies day, and she isn't much of a lady if I don't properly spend it with her. Though she's lazy and takes forever to get up so there is a reasonable timeslot. I am almost twice as tall as a normal man and at least five times as wide. I look simply too big to be allowed, and so wild - long tangles of bushy black hair and beard hides most of my face, I have hands the size of dustbin lids and my feet in their leather boots are like baby dolphins. I will also be the only dickhead sitting outside an open garage in my driveway at 7 AM.

Ahk, if its when cruising at those sort of revs or trying to gain speed its likely to be too lean. Do you have the ability to change values? Give it a bit more fuel between 1500 and 3000.

I'll lend you mine mate. What is the problem exactly?

Disco one thing that's a little contradictory there is that the king of the ocean itself, the GTR, is the very car that sparked the hatred in 92. The GTR is probably the level between hard edged EVO and pudgy old GTT. Though with modifications is on par for speed with the evo in many ways, which would suit many of the ladies looking for the said change.

Oh so you are back to being Skyline man again? Come out and lets go race our 290kw Nissans! Pick a 3 lane road at least though as mine takes up 2 in the first 3 gears. Looks like a weapon! I hate EVO transfer cases with a passion Particularly the later ones, the bearings seem to be made of bluetac.