GTScotT

Its not needed. The majority of aftermarket rods don't even have a feed to the pin bush. The rod itself has more surface area than the OEM rods and flicks oil up off its surface. Its meant to spray into the piston to lubricate the oil rings. Put your Nitto rods in your motor and forget about it mate.

^ that would be a good deal too you know... Adaptronic plug in with 1200cc Five-O injectors, tuned to safe margins for a given turbo and sold as a package. It wouldn't be tuned to ten tenths of its potential as you still need to compensate for the quality of peoples intercoolers and exhaust systems but I would be damn sure it is a predictable outcome. You could have 240kw plug in highflow kits rolling out the door, 250kw SS1PU kits, 280kw SS2/G3 kits... People can use this as a base tune that works AS IS or give it to their tuner needing a simple tidy up to push for MAXIMUM power. I think this is a good idea! HKS and other outfits have done this in the past, so I can't see why you can't too I would gladly pay $3,000 for a bolt on turbo with ECU and injectors ready to plug and play on a car which has a TBE, 3" intake, FMIC and fuel pump.

Actually they are debating whether or not it would nuke the motor if run like that for long enough. So I'd say they aren't over thinking anything.. Its a good topic.

Don't fret! The xspurt are a top notch injector, above par for sure. They are a properly flow matched set of Bosch EV14. I put a set of off the shelf EV14 in my brother's sigma off a basic EMS stinger and they idle better than the OEM spec 500s it had prior. Definite improvement and it is yet to be fully tuned. The ID or Xspurt injectors are a top class injector, so you should still be fine with the nistune and a careful tuner.

I can confirm my cammed idle is beautiful with the 850s, and I know powertune have done a LOT of cars using those 1200s too. The only feedback I got on this topic was to stay under 1kcc on the Nistune regardless of the brand. So far that has worked well for me.. Otherwise I would have had no fear to run the 1200s like so many others have. Stao maybe you should stock these and sell them as a pack with turbos and ecus :-) get Trent to build a basic tune for I and sell them as a plug in.

I imagine it would be capable of 280kw without too much stress. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-1200cc-JECS-Fuel-Injectors-Nissan-300ZX-VG30-Skyline-RB25-Flow-Matched-E85-/370793342042?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item565501645a&_uhb=1 I use the same brand of injector as above in my SR20 and they are faultless. Extremely good value for money and they come with a spec sheet which tells you the serial number and flow rate of each individual injector. I would not run the 1200s on a Nistune or PFC though, I would want to have an adaptronic or better. If you have a Nistune or PFC you can get the 850s from them like I did, and they work a treat. E85 power with 850s should stop at the 350kw mark.

I've owned multiples of both, I can stomach reality lol

No he shouldn't. RB's are freaking easy to kill. Full stop.

LMAO well played *tips hat*

Without individual cylinder temperature probes it would be difficult to know if its working right or not. The AF at the tailpipe is basically an average across all 6 cylinders, and you need the temp probes to tell you which is literally running hotter (leaner) than the others. In this case I know there are cars where this is known to work FINE, and others where it is not so fine.. I am unsure on the verdict for an RB25. What I do know is I am about to start fixing a car with this EXACT plenum cut and shut job. I will take photos when I do... The motor has been looked after but has gradually spun a bearing AND fried the fire rings on one or more cylinders. I am looking forward to seeing the piston crowns once I crack it open... I am fearful that some cylinders will present leaner than others. I will report back in due time. If anyone is specifically wanting to know about this (long term) and doesn't hear back from me in 3 months drop me a PM and I will update my findings at that stage.

To help.... Results are on page 340, you can see these are highmount E85 results: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-340 Stao is anticipating the smaller compressor will be more responsive than a SS1PU on an SR20 and will max out at 260kw/98, but in test it was similar in response to the SS1PU and maxed at 298kw/E85. As you can see on page 351 the SS1PU maxed at 322kw/E85 and was similarly as responsive: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-351

Sorry, I saw his response of 298 which is E85, missed the 260kw bit. Remember these figures are based on his testing with the RB25, so while he knows it will have about 260kw worth of flow on 98 that is also compared to the SS1PU having nearly 280 worth of flow on 98. Stao are the smaller SS wheels still based on the original high/low blade design or are all SS turbos now using the same straight blade design as the SS2?

Hey Morgan, It's smaller than the SS1PU and will make less power in total. Stao is referring to his E85 results, where his SS1PU E85 result was over 320kw IIRC. I have forgotten to PM you in some time so are due for a catch PM me if you need me to clarify.

Tell your mate to get a TD05H 16G6, he will need to watch ebay for when they come up or order the bits separately... They don't normally sell it in that spec as most people want 18 or 20Gs. Lith has shown me reasonable proof that the 16G6 is significantly more responsive than what I know of the 18G and the flow rating is roughly the same as a 20G. The 16G6 is the superior turbo for sure.

They do have 16G but its 8cm. Not sure how well that would go on a 25, but possibly is worth a try. That would be an awesome bolt on for budding RB20 owners that almost makes me want to flat out buy an R32 just for fun.. That would be awesome. Johnny the older T3 12cm housing was the one that was really fail. The T25 8cm housing works fine when the WG hole has been ported, as noted by Lith. I am confident this housing will be more like the T25 based item than the T3, as it was harped about to Eiji on numerous occasions.

Yep. Single hex deep socket. Make sure you have it on DEAD STRAIGHT and use your wank arm with plenty of leverage to crack it off.

You need an ecu (management) for the mods you describe. Do a few weeks reading on the forum and you will form a better understanding on the topic. Don't rush into anything just yet, there is a lot to know before you can commit to something like that.. More than you can learn by asking questions in one thread, you will need to do lots of reading. Feel free to PM if you feel really lost. Good luck.

Helps overall rigidity also which is a big variable when talking 1000hp. Grout/cement filled block will be a must.

He was serious about the cement, its definitely required.

In all seriousness we are talking 1000hp... I believe that to be a power figure that requires an experienced engine builder to produce an engine. That being said I also do not think it matters what modern engine you start with... To get it to 1000hp would probably be a similar amount of work regardless. Therefore OP should take his RB20 to an experienced engine builder and ask them to produce a 1000hp engine capable of over 10,000rpm. Then OP will simply need the manifolds and a turbo to suit. $100,000.00 later and it will rip good skids.

I am far from being against the HTA, I simply read into what people say they are after and I consider the best and most cost effective way to achieve that. We have been told the car is mostly a commuter vehicle and has the odd spirited punt, which tells me a large outlay is probably unwarranted. The OP has mentioned he wants more power without picking up too much lag, and in my own mind I have identified a couple of issues worth considering before making the change. Consider this: If the OP was to fix his boost control issue and have it hold 20psi flat, he would likely get a 20kw gain which would easily be felt seat of the pants. This MAY put a big enough smile on his dial to continue on with the current setup and enjoy it a while longer. Likewise with the exhaust housing. Once OP decides the fixes to these issues were NOT enough of an improvement for him he can then buy himself a HTA knowing he no longer has a boost control issue, and he has only lost the cost of a touch up tune to get it to hold 20psi flat. I think Lith's post sums it up pretty well, too.

lol sounds like a plan I'm no straight line guy but I find the drags to be some very hassle free fun. Give it a go when you get a chance, there is definitely a skill to be mastered and its good fun. I can't agree that telling the guy that swapping out to a HTA will fix his boost control issue... While that might work there would be much cheaper methods available to him which WILL result in a decent increase in power alone. It should be noted that the potential cause of the boost drop might NOT be the turbo or even the housing size but potentially his gate position.. SO it would be worth his time in investigating that issue before he forks on a mega turbo. It would be very annoying to put le mega turbo on the car and still have that sort of drop... For comparably dampened results. OP why not try look at your gate position and size first, and the size of your rear housing, before dropping a lot of coin on the new turbo? I am confident that a fixing the boost control issue alone will net a reasonable gain and might make you pretty happy for the bang for $$ ratio.

I posted a detailed response to this thread which somehow got deleted... The CP specs would be 18 thou top ring and 22-24 for the second. They say the second ring should be 4-6 thou larger than the top. Oil rings must be 15 thou MINIMUM and they say DO NOT file these. Also, remember that you need to see both the green and red tabs on the oil expander, do not let the expander overlap. Also the oil rings sit in a groove on the expander, they DO NOT sit above/below it they sit ON it. I did my own motor (86.5mm bore) at 18 and 22 and it has turned out awesome. Seeing as you are aiming for a little more power I would increase the second ring to 5 thou larger, so 18/23 for a street motor or up to 24 on the second ring if you want it to be a little looser. I would not be scared to go 19/26 on it. At 18/22 my oil control in the SR is perfect. I went 18/25 in my brothers motor and that is a VERY free motor. I did that because it is an older mitsubishi motor which gets a lot of blow-by in factory guise and a few very experienced builders advised it would help in oil control, plus will make the motor a little happier in terms of power making. Feel free to PM if you need help.

Great feedback. Glad you added, Matt. BTW I would be keen to pilot at the drags some time if you would allow I would love to see what I can do with 400kw lol

He did say that's assuming he doesn't run out of injectors, so it's likely he knows he probably will and is going to see where the but stops before he outlays on new ones. Stao just so you know I am doing great with my Five-o injectors, a set will run you under $600 for the RB25 and come in sizes up to 1200 for factory fit. BTW I will probably be adding an external gate to my combo so will have some room to add a VNT housing if you would like me to trial. Drop me a PM.