GTScotT
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Everything posted by GTScotT
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Almost all results pre page 43 on the dyno thread is on 98 ron, bar like 2 posts max.. Once Stao went to E85 he never wen't back. To my understanding the turbine side of things reached a point where no changes were needed beyond housings and compressors. Thus he did a back to back with the SS2 when he went to E85 and any advancement from there can be seen as an improvement regardless of what fuel you are running. Here is page 43 where he first changed to the current full blade SS2 on 98, that is an FNT IWG item and went 312kw: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-43
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Stao was originally doing all his testing on pump 98 man. All the FNT gear was originally produced with pump 98, and he didn't have an issue. There are a tonne of 98 based FNT results (from Stao's test car, same tuner same dyno) in the dyno thread.
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OK, ok. I should have said 'will help overall' lol. My bad, was rushing to type on the train. Blah_blah a collapsed muffler probably wouldn't hurt spool that bad if it wasn't fully collapsed. If it was only partially damaged it would more so create turbulence which will hurt outright flow (power up top). Get him to do a power run with it dropped at the end of the dump. I am confident it will jump in power.
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Agree that gating the c*nt will work but think you should look for the restriction first. Rule out all possible faux pas before proceeding to make changes. I feel it will be a collapsed muffler or similar. When a spot weld breaks down in a muffler the glasspack starts to hang down a touch and causes all world of issues. I've seen cars lose heaps of power like that and have bad detonation issues.
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Has he dropped the exhaust before the cat(decat)? Also, is your dump a 1 or 2 piece item?
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I only own one shirt and fongs
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GEEZ! Spoiled for choice.. Double A hole!
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lol I ask because it makes me jelly. I want a cool tow car for myself You ass hole.
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Awesome cant wait to see the results. Am guessing 260 to be achievable on SAE 2004.
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Misconception ^ As they still exhibited the problem AFTER being repaired post factory. So your 7M does a HG, you change it for factory guise parts and it happens again. Best 'easy' fix is MLS HG and studs, as noted by ARTZ.
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2JZGE+T is a very easy conversion and they can handle some punishment. The motor will set you back $400 odd and a simple G3 EWG will probably get you close to the response you want with an easy 240kw through the auto. You can probably pick up the said NA 2J WITH an auto for a couple of hundred extra, and an ebay manifold will be sufficient for said daily/fun car. Make sure it has a tow ball. I am jelly. Problem solved
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I have a feeling that IWG housing is a flanged version of the fail-whale 3 bolt one. If you remember there was a guy who hacked open his fail-whale housing to make it a proper open flanged rear end (a Jez customer) and that also failed. I would probably do this with an EWG housing like urtwhistle, or would consider a G3 with some massive v-band outlet (IWG).
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The FNT makes a big difference for sure. Mine saw 20psi at 4000, but I'm curious to see what it will do when I go back on a cooler day. I've got the S14 motor but its not running VCT. Just S13 spec Poncams and gears. Tuner didn't touch the gears though Admittedly, the powerband is awesome at the moment... I don't need it any stronger and the torque I get at 4k is nonsense. Once I sort my tune I will have to organise a drag night with you. Not gonna go back till I fix this boost/load cut issue. Got to decide what to do about boost control first but.
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Sounds awesome man. Glad you like it. is yours an SS1PU like mine or a G2? Whats the actual spec, stao please confirm? also Urs is VCT or S13 spec motor?
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Can These Be Low Mounted On Stock Rb25 Neo Manifold?
GTScotT replied to rondofj's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
No, a 5858 was available at the time. Ron has asked me about which to get, I believe he settled on the 5558 as it was tried and tested by another member. IIRC his gate it off the turbine housing. It is definitely a JB, I sent him the link to buy the oil line lol -
Cheers! Re ECU LOL Nah, can't. I have spent just shy of $3,000 on the Nistune and tuning to get to this point.... Admittedly only half of which relates to the current tune and motor (last setup was a failure), but it is still a mega investment I would feel stupid to give up on.. Resale on the nistune would be next to nothing. I just need to go bark at the tuner about the couple of issues I have with the tune and get it fixed. I believe they relate to the weather on the day of the actual tune, limits were just set too low and a flat spot pre 3k rpm probably couldn't be felt on the dyno. Am gonna think about investing a little more into better boost control and will simply get the tune tidied up. Am expecting the final result to fall close to the 260rwkw mark and I think I will snatch a low 12 That will be enough for a car that doesn't cause a scene when it comes out to play. Simple car, simply good results.
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Can These Be Low Mounted On Stock Rb25 Neo Manifold?
GTScotT replied to rondofj's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Take it to the drags, Ron! -
True.... If only my friend did not sell his S14 that would have been so easy lol
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That I do not! And the car is unreg so I can't easily take it back to him to have a gander Jez is also miles away so am stuck with very little help. I may need to lash out on some software.
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Oh ok, lol fail. There are 2 areas I am dubious of. One being a hose that is a PITA to get to which had cracked previously and I cut down. The other being the EGR port at the back of the IM. I made my own little block off plate for it but I have since sealed the actual EGR valve which I can put back on with an OEM gasket. That will likely be better than a silly piece of alloy. I'll see if these are an issue
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The Z32 was near new when purchased. I will have to get this looked at.. Very odd.
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Yep, Z32 on Nistune.
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What do you think could be other likely causes? Possible air leak?
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Its actually just AFM voltage cut, so it has no actual PSI value for when it cuts. Unigroup told me it was set to be around 23psi on the day I picked it up, but that was done on a 45deg day as noted. The very next day it was 10 degrees cooler and I couldn't run 18psi without mega cut. I've been running it off the can all this time which was 13psi, but last night it was about 10 degrees out west and it was hitting cut at about 14-15psi. After taking heaps of preload out it will seeing close to 14psi in high RPM 4th gear, but 11 in the first 3 gears. so no major boost control issues I guess.. I'm sure if the boost cut wasn't there it could easily be overcome with enough preload and some basic boost control. Its more so the settings in the ecu. How easily I cracked a 13.0 with that wheel spin launch though, definitely had 12.8 in it even with the boost cut lol I would have taken another mm of preload out if they gave us another run. Oh well, until next time!
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For my first two runs I honestly had no issues with traction, it was great. If I got the launch off my first pass which was a 14.x but did not get boost cut and snatched the gears the way I did on my 13s pass I think it would have been late 12s for sure. At least 12.8. The tyres help up awesome, that's for sure. Can't wait to go again. Not sure what to do about boost control though. Is it possible for me to exchange my IWG housing for one with an EWG port off the side?