GTScotT

So, finally home from the drags. Had a ball. Unfortunately was unable to get a clean run without at least 1 pop for boost cut, but its OK. I managed to get it pretty good by the 3rd run with only a minor cut just before I crossed the line. Final run got my PB and was running 11psi (234rwkw @ 20psi when tuned on 45 degree day), creeping a little after 5500rpm. Lots of wheel spin as they auto greened the lights (no stage), plus it felt like my shimmed diff was pegging on the last run also. Managed 13.0 @ 115mph. I'm pretty happy with this. The car has an easy late 12 in it AS IS and HEAPS more in reserve once I give it back its missing 20psi. I am happy to report the turbo is AWESOME and the star of my show. Love my SS1PU. I don't think I will want to go VNT, it is balls out enough as it is. Just want to finish my tune once I am done putting run in KMs on the motor Slips attached.

DVS JEZ, the best kind of JEZ.

Actually it was on page 61, this is page 64. Thus my commentary.

Haha, I was 50/50 at that point. Am worried I will not be able to flat foot it in 4th due to the boost cut. Tempted to do an actuator pressure run just to get a feel for traction and see how high boost creeps. I will be stoked with 110mph whist in this tune state the motor still has the start-up oil in it after all lol

Get an adaptronic via hypergear, he can sell you a turbo and ecu combo for close to 2k depending on what sort of turbo you are getting... It also means no AFM which is win win. As noted by other guys, best bet is to book a good tuner to come for a holiday with his wideband and do some road tuning along some of your no speed limit highways. It will probably be a days work but some tuners might be keen just for the experience. Surely it would be fun... PM DVS JEZ, he is the nicest tuner I have ever met and he puts a lot of care into his work. Hopefully he can sort you out.

It's an SR20 with T4 TS. Welcome to the thread.

lol I am fairly confident I will trap more than 98mph, but we will see. Unfinished tune because unigroup refused to set to kill until it had done a minimum of 1,500km. It was also tuned on a 45 degree day as noted. Much more to be had, I'm sure. I'm just hoping I can get some boost into it with the cold we're experiencing. It cuts at 18psi on a 25 degree day when it was tuned to cut at 23psi. Gayer than aids.

Going to the drags tomorrow night. Fingers crossed I don't embarrass myself or that my unfinished tune doesn't let me down hy_rpm where you at?

Generally not. It depends what you want to do with the motor.... For me, 500whp is what the motor can reasonably achieve in standard form. Two things to consider at that level are: Risk and Longevity. Risk wise the stock motor at 500whp will not need much encouragement to let go. Encounter some knock due to bad fuel or have a fuel pump go lazy and you are sure to nuke it. Longevity wise the motor was never built to spin up 500whp so it will not last the usual 300,000km we are used to seeing the motors live to (under the right/factory conditions). When you build the motor to a reasonable level IE: harder bearings, stronger rods and pistons, you will essentially be reducing the risk factors and extending the longevity of the motor. The integrity of the pistons can handle the heat/pressure, the rods will handle the torque and the bearings will last longer when spun that hard (remember that more HP is more thrust on the rotating assembly of the motor). If you want to exceed those levels that is when you start considering additional balancing and so on (IMHO). The additional pressure the motor will see at say 700whp will warrant better balancing to again counter the above mentioned risk/longevity factors. Another thing to consider with up-rated bearings is their sensitivity to foreign particles. There is no stopping foreign body getting into the motor somehow, and good filtration is a must. Soft stock bearings generally can absorb a small amount of foreign matter before taking a bite out of the crank, while race spec bearings will chew out much easier (harder to take more pressure but more brittle as a result). Good filtration on a built motor is a MUST. Buy a filter relocator to suit a much larger filter, such as a Z9 or similar, and run synthetic rated filters. Look at Holden or Ford relocators or similar that take those giant filters.. As long as they use a standard dash fitting for the hoses you can then buy an RB or whatever specific spin on with the same dash fitting size and plumb it up easy. A good compromise here is to run standard main bearings and race rod bearings. Because the crank is fixed by multiple bearing shells it gets less load per bearing and therefore needs less pressure resilience. As the oil flows from the block, through the mains to the crank and then to the rods, running stock or softer mains can help increase longevity in a road use motor whilst still getting the benefit of the up-rated rod bearings.

Hey all, I am wanting to do some rust repairs and respray my S14, yet am cash limited. I am capable of doing all mechanical work - from changing a belt to rebuilding a motor. If any panel beater/spray painters out there want to get some mech work done in exchange for beating/spraying my car please PM me. As noted I can do just about anything (except pipe fabrication). Cheers,

I used CP and Manley in my build. My bores and rings I did close to CP recommended specs (I opened the 2nd ring a little more than they recommended) and the motor is amazingly tight/quiet. I cannot fault the build to which I attribute both quality parts and quality work (machine and assembly). From the research I did the Manley rods are actually the same base product as the Eagle rods. The difference is the QA standards. The Manleys are very obviously finished better (visually) and they come as a weighted set with the individual end weights written on the packaging for each rod. The Eagles are less perfect in presentation do not come weighted. I would buy the Manleys again, for sure. I like this combo, its serving me well.

A little more feedback re SS1PU SR20: I did some private work on the weekend to repair a guys clutch hydros. Afterward I had to road test the car and got to have a direct 'back to back' against my own. The customer had a fairly staple setup, sporting a GT2860RS and the usual mods to his 93 spec 180SX. The disco was realistically maxed out on 98. I can say with absolute confidence that the said disco spud setup is redundant against the SS1PU. The SS1PU comes alive much easier than the spud, and even though I was only running 13psi at the time (tuned for 20) the spud had NOTHING on the SS1PU for power even though the spud was running the appropriate 20psi. It would be fair to say that the spud feels a little more lively under cruise conditions, but doesn't spin up nearly as quick as the SS1PU when you start to punt it. The spud is more so linear when it starts to pull, right to the point of being on full boost, while the SS1PU is aggressive and will go from cruise to full pelt near instantly once you give it some right foot encouragement. In the last week I have also compared this to an S15 sporting a 5 speed and 4.3 diff (my car is running a 4.11) and I can still say the uber spool of the fully tuned, VCT enabled, HKS cammed, T28 is still redundant to the spool/power offering of the SS1PU (non VCT). I hope the above is of value to you guys. Cheers,

LOL Wile Coyote would approve.

The inducer has more to do with power than the exducer does, wheel design has also changed the game drastically. 1mm difference in exducer size means very little on todays market.

^ good deal, true story

Really? What makes you think this? The R33 is one of the only cars that comes to mind which has a T3 split pulse design and it requires machine work to make it even work as described. Its missing a fairly large part of the splitter toward the turbine entry, and I do not think Nissan ever intended it to have a split pulse purpose but rather just good flow into the turbine housing. Furthermore, I see a T3 twin scroll as nothing but a hindrance for manifold production, as everything gets smaller and harder to work with 6 pipes going into 2 tiny tubes. Am unsure there is a market as you say. Cannot help but sense some form of motive in play.

Leak down test!! If the leak down test results are poor that would suggest the rings are worn. You can also do a co2 test on the radiator to see how much carbon is in the water, it will give you an indication of if the headgasket is goneski. You should definitely tell us the colour of the smoke though, before we make too many assumptions... White, blue, black. You may need a friend to help diagnose.

Better can definitely be had for your particular setup. A Precision 6262 CEA should be available in a housing config similar to your T04Z which will improve spool and add power. That is a first suggestion without major outlay which will improve power and spool. If you want to stay sub 400kw but want the best of the best for a reasonable 'swap over' an FP 3582 HTA will probably be for you. A 3586 HTA is likely to be an awesome compromise if you want way more power, it will probably stretch out to mid 400s rather than the mid 3s mentioned though lol as will a 6262 CEA. That should tell you what you want to know.

Lol both within 1mm OD. Its probably a revision as 1mm on a comp wheel normally won't change much. It likely was done to remove confusion for the older model and anyone who ended up with one. More signs of afterthought changes rather than pure bred success.

Interesting.. Not a fan of the 60mm 84T? I thought the creme of the crop was the 3037 60mm 84T?

Valves CAN be damaged, you need to test. The cam would come to rest at a neutral position but there is no telling where it was pointed when it snapped. So it is possible that the cam was not yet in a neutral position when it snapped and a piston caught a valve on the way back up. Compression testing should give you an indication if there is any damage. Comp test by pumping air into the cylinder when it is closed, not by doing the normal crank test.. You would do that after you replace the cam and have it all back together.

Its like we are all out of breath.. I too want a VNT unit on my car :-( C'mon, please lol

IIRC the evo x housing is 12cm, which you wouldn't see the difference on the outside. Also a 10.5cm is probably .7-8 AR with the TD05H inside. So .98 for stock evo x is probably right.

It might be sitting partly open, making the car feel sluggish and the turbo not able to build enough energy to hit target boost. I shouldn't be making conclusive statements at this stage though.. I don't understand some of the symptoms described. OP your thread title says it didn't last long; when was it put together and by who? If you paid a shop for this setup have you considered taking it back for them to diagnose? Not that I don't want to help you, but before we teach you how to cook a meal you might want to take your big mac back to old Ron and ask him about the pubic hair you found on the bun. It made your wife cry, after all.

When you say release like a bov, what do you mean exactly? Can you describe this?