GTScotT

She's a disease ridden whore. Good luck with whatever you caught off her, scat eating mother f**ker.

I wasn't aware the skyline was using a hot wire AFM, I always thought these were vibration (rubbish) type. Not that it actually changes my stance, I still don't think its safe. Yet in light of your comments its probably not as dire as I am saying it is. I'll need to look into it more, but still safer for me to advise against it than condone it. My friends 33 GTST was a total slap in the face.. I gave up on that argument and regretted doing so (as a good friend would). Anyhow, I'm happy to admit when I am out of answers.

AFAIK Kando don't sell a 35R front housing on its own, and from memory the XR6T CHRA isn't a normal GT DBB core... So the backing plate on the front housing MIGHT be different. I really stress the might... In terms of lag, I believe only initial spool up from idle/cruise conditions will be effected and only a minor amount. To my knowledge the larger housing will actually have better boost recovery (response when at speed). That being said, you should hit up Scotty for his

I don't think it will go past the fueling capacity of the injectors, I just don't think the AFM's reading is a true representation of flow. You can always scale the thing differently and have it max out somewhere else... The AFM is only interpreting vibrations across the element into a voltage reading. Knowing that flow and pressure are not relative, it would also be fair to say what happens before and after the compressor would also be different across varying compressors. So in my mind the AFM could read a certain voltage, but with two different turbos you could be talking a different mass of air. That mass ends up in the cylinder and might be just that little bit different in the wrong way and push it towards knock. Knock is actually easy to encounter, and as I have learnt its even easier with lower timing values.. This isn't even taking into consideration how a given turbo would plot against its compressor map at such low PR, and how hot it may be blowing when revving out at 5psi. All little variables that just don't inspire confidence in my mind when talking about a motor that loves to smash itself to bits. Truth be told, I am nowhere near this pedantic about CA or SR turbo swaps... You can easily get away with a T28 on an S13 (of whichever sort) and have no issues. Nissan clearly did a better job of their ECU's than they did the 33+

I have argued before that the ECU is only accessing the map based on a set formula of all the available variables. Variables that are not aligned with their intended cells when you change the turbo. Bear in mind the Hypergear highflow has a CHRA the size of a small trim 3076, there is a lot of flow to be had and no way to know what part of the map it is accessing. In my own personal experience 3 degrees of timing and a safe AFR had the ability to kill my SR in no time flat. In fact, it was because the tune was so "R&R" that made it so dangerous. Furthermore, a friend of mine did exactly what this thread is about on a 33 GTST (against my advice) and suffered the (described) consequences. But what does factual experience matter on a forum... won't argue this point forever in a day -.-........ If people want to believe doing this is safe, thats fine.. If you want to further enforce to them that it is, its your conscience. John the above probably quite well explains my position on your question.. While the bigger turbo lowers combustion temps, its still forcing the ECU to pick mixtures at random which could be dead on a no go zone for the given load point. I just wouldn't condone it to anyone....

Lol build me a low line trailer! Pm me a price man! Am serious lol. as for Pitts that's who I would have recommended for sure! Seen quality no nonsense results from them and am told the guy is a champ too

You assume. Its possible to overrun the safety margin given by R&R, otherwise we would all just slap turbos on and push past R&R like in the fuel cut defender days. Realistically most of us now realise you don't need to HEAR knock for it to be present, and just because your car is hitting R&R doesn't mean it isn't knocking. EAD Plattsy Faggsy.

Best to hire a trailer and go for a trip to see the banana benders up north

Who is right and who is wrong here? Me who is setting reasonable expectations if the person was to buy what was readily available and new? Or you who is seemingly letting someone get their hopes up that they will score a steal on randomly available second hand goods?

Won't run well on stock ecu, needs an ecu and tune. Not getting it tuned may result in a broken motor. Don't do it unless you get an ecu. Hypergear can supply an ecu for a reasonable price and a tune will cost about $600. So in reality highflow 1k, ecu 1k, tune 600 = $2,600. If you dont plan to spend that much your adventure ends here until you can. Then even if you do the above just remember thats not a complete package to get the most out of it, just the bare minimum to have the highflow WORK on your car with whatever else it has. Good luck. End thread.

LOL ! I wonder if it would.... Hmmm....

Two things: Your fuel pressure issue is a major problem, but not the cause of your light throttle bucking. it will either be your reg, pump or wiring to the pump causing the low pressure. Attend to this before you blow le motor. The bucking is caused by your BOV and the tuners ability to tune around it. Best recommendation is to go back to a stock bov at least as a test and see if I was right. I bet my ass I am.

You'll find that patience will help a great deal. Hang back a couple of months and read all the popular threads in this section (just keep an eye on the first page and passively read whatever comes up). After a couple of months you'll be a lot more confident in your parts selection and how to set things up. Probably the best read for you right now is the Kando dynamic thread. It shows what a stock RB25 can get away with when you set up a reasonable turbo. Enjoy and feel free to PM if you feel your getting lost.

this!

He's using an older correction software to close the gap.

350kw should be attainable (470whp). the trick is making sure you have no boost leaks and have the right size pipes from air filter to muffler tip. please check out the RB25 dyno thread, a few minutes read will answer this question. welcome to the dark side.

LOL this will be true. I can possibly arrange rego for then also, but its a 10 hour drive to VIC (plus the medial suburban shite) and I thought you had a full up schedule?! Haha but that would be cool I must admit.

In 9 months time 5 years will have lapsed and I will be almost legal to drive again.. With the excitement of being back on the road I am sure I will make a road trip to VIC sooner or later, so will get a reading there if Stao can cover the run. I will get a run done at JEM also (out of my own pocket) to compare between them and Unigroup for my own curiosity. That should solve the puzzle for all We just need to wait. EDIT: As a point of interest... Stao had tested the SS1PU turbo on an SR at chequered also, which got 225kw on stock cams and 26Xkw on 272 cams.. My motor is fresh and was given a run in tune on a 45 degree day, with 256 cams I managed 234kw. I remember how the car felt on that day.... And know it is an enormous increment different to how it feels on a sub 30 degree day. I am confident I will walk on the test done at Chequered, and my tuning is done at Unigroup.

As a point here: mine weren't touched either (Unigroup tune). Goes to show provided the motor is correctly timed (back to Nissan's zero) the Poncams are an awesome drop in upgrade

Lol you can't skip 200 pages worth of reading man... The whole thing about Hypergear is the constant development... The trials and testings, new innovations and efforts put in to improve a product with a very entry level price tag. Couldn't have said it better myself!

Stao has his bolt on stealth units, he has even recently made an extreme high output stock bolt on turbo... But he is also now producing turbos capable of more in higher detail setups. Not once has he marketed the two together, so I am failing to see the gripe. If you want to compare HG turbos to HTA items the dyno sheets are freely available for your perusal.

Haha but its not! Whenever 6 boobs are in the proximity of my eyes I CANNOT help but stare Mmmmm 6 boooobs..... thats 3 f**king paaaaaiirrs... Wait, what were we talking about?

LOL just stating truth. The HTA is great, without delving into comparison its able to spool as well as the VNT unit with not more than a conventional T3 housing. BUT, suddenly a wild attack appeared, and I had to use agility to remind people Stao is not out to take away your HTA thunder.... He merely recognizes that your result is at the pinnacle of RB performance and would like to implement what technology is available to him to try and get there also. I am confident you agree, and wouldn't want someone shooting down Stao in such a manner either even if it was in the name of HTA glory.

Kinkstaah perhaps you have not read beyond page 200 yourself... The newer highmount and VNT style turbos are not marketed as a replacement for the bolt on stuff. Stao has actually reached reasonable limits of his bolt on housings and therefore advances in particular turbos are still relevant without the need to backpedal and re-showcase the bolt on aspect. IE if you want to buy a bolt on SS2 you can find a dyno sheet for a bolt on previous version, high mount previous version and then high mount latest. You can then make a reasonable determination on what to expect from the new version if you were to low mount it. There is no need to compare the VNT turbos performance to the performance of a highmounted HTA and use the word stealth. Nobody has done a stealth HTA, Stao is not trying to better a turbo over twice the value of his own. If you do like the HTA turbos I can link you to the thread, just ask.

Am guessing this is a T4 twin scroll, so PT6466 would be my choice. But... Like the others im concerned that the T78 A: should make more and B: should be laggier. maybe a cam timing or some sort of electrical ignition based issue.. maybe not triggering right and can't get enough timing into it.