GTScotT
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Everything posted by GTScotT
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Is in the Kando thread. Its a 9k RPM motor, but the theory is DEAD solid for a track setup. Please obtain and fwd to me ASAP
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I was definitely saying to use an FP 71HTA wheel on a MHI core, but am using this as a comparative item. I do not want to sound like a douche, but I have noticed that certain operators load their dynos differently to others... And curves can often not represent what sort of response is actually to be expected. Status and DVS JEZ are definitely two operators I have noticed produce results that appear laggier than they realistically are on the road, with the plot accentuating more of the motors natural character than the transient response felt on the road. I feel that is evident in Stao's above posted result, as he himself noted the car felt similar in response to his SS1PU turbo, which has been confirmed by many users to be a GTRS killer. I have faith in the SL2 71mm combo too, as its a 61mm 76 trim turbine combined with a new tech compressor. Something I think more people should try.
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For reference, here is a link to Staos own TD06SL2 71mm billet results. He's running a 10cm T3 housing, which has proven to work well on the stock low mount also, with a 44mm gate plumbed off the housing (reference ARTZ for build info). http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page-345#entry6727502 Also, attached is a photo of the compressor inlet on my SS1PU (same compressor used on the above SL2 test). In comparison to the FP wheels I can see a similar trend going with the half blades which are closer to the mains and a lot taller than on cast wheels. I defend that he has not copied this idea from anyone, but think it might be a common formula among turbo MFGs.
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Knowing that FP themselves market the 71HTA wheel as an all out highflow option, why not consider following suit? FP sell the item as a TD05H 71mm, which in the right housings would be even more ballistic on an RB. You could step it up to the TD06 based turbine, also. But this all sounds a little familiar with Hypergear having already gone and done the 20.5G tests (which worked well if you care to look). Or is this all taboo in here and we need to stick with original Garrett/FP variants alone?
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Are you sure its a tech buy in? I know he has no access to the FP turbines, so question if he really has right to the tech or they just don't care that he can cad and copy the compressor when he's only mating them to OE MHI spec cores. I know he also has no access to Garrett parts, he's essentially an Aussie kando. Right down to the supplier for his components. Sure enough he owns a CNC and makes his own compressors though.
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Don't get me wrong. I am not wahhing in this case. I am simply setting a few things straight, GT are not obsolete and Greens/Reds/Blacks should not be used as a guideline expectation for budding RB builders. Le simple.
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Take the recent SR22 kando result posted by Status. The dude put the effort into having a motor that could spin up and whacked on a basic TD06H 10cm. Heaps of turbine flow in a relatively compact housing (think highflow). The outcome was 400kw and over 4000RPM of usable power band. $700 dinosaur turbo. The win was in the methodology, I wish I had done the same with my own build in hindsight.
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Lend Me Your Expertise - Few Issues
GTScotT replied to sydking's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
So let me just confirm a before and after here.. You had: Rubber caps on bovs and no vacc lines connected. Catch catch vented to atmo Now have: Wood chocking bovs????????? Vacc lines still connected Catch can now vent to intake (like stock) For starters you haven't returned it back to how it was. Secondly, the breathers being connected to intake changes your effective RON and your tune will now be out. The oil mist into the intake stream makes a big difference. Please clarify the above before we speculate too much. -
Everything has its place. I for one cannot afford to buy a HTA. In the end I see the turbo as a longer term consumable and a product you are likely to change as requirements do, which is why I cant justify the 2k+ it would cost landed. A GT can be had for about half the price, so while they are age old and clearly inferior in performance people will still flock to them (just like the Kando items everyone knows so well nowadays). Re the 65 or 67mm thing, they have actually chopped and changed a lot over the years. You are correct they are originally a 67mm wheel but they do crop them back to 65 in some of the models (65mm in the green, full size 67 in the red). I'm not attacking you, I'm just clarifying the two lines are not directly comparable as people on this forum will be buying Garrett based items rather than a rainbow named variants.
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The chamber is fine. Mine had more det damage than that on the quench pads. I skimmed the head till it hit the pads to make up for it. Just blend the pads so they don't have any hard edges.
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lol CAS bracket repairs like that are more common than you think, I've seen and heard of plenty going around. So dodge lol. As far as the head goes it's repairable. I don't think the seat will be overly damaged, if at all. New guides, new valves, rock and roll.
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Just to chime in with some semi-opinionated facts lol The GT aren't really redundant in light of a GTX, so I wouldn't go so far as to call them dinosaurs yet.. The GTX seem to fit neatly between the GT range from 71-76-82 in terms of adding power and response. You pick up some of the power from the next model range and a little bit of the lag also. For someone wanting close to 76R power I think the GTX71 is a good option when chasing a little more response (in more ways than just boost at RPM). Furthermore, just to clarify that the rainbow FP items are not like for like with the Garrett based variants you are naming. IE an FP Red vs a 76 HTA, the Red has their custom 65mm turbine while the 3076 HTA is a GT30 60mm turbine. They do share the same compressor though which is why it has a '76 HTA' designation. I am more than confident that you are already aware of the above, but I thought I would clarify for the vast majority who will read this thread in the years to come.
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Good luck Darren! Thursday week your referring to? Not tomorrow, right? LOL
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Ah right a fair whack of difference. Be careful you don't melt the thing.
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If youve got it able to hold 20 off the spring (peaking 23) that is really good. Provided your car is tuned at that level I give you the big thumbs up. Just watch it when the weather changes as that can make it jump
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That sounds epic. Cant wait to hear what happens when you set the thing to kill!
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with a .82 ewg this would be pretty fun on the street. Theres no harm in trying the existing housing if you can do all the work yourself, but I'm sure you will need to pay for a dump and other bits on top of the tune. It could prove costly. consider getting yourself a manifold and .82 straight up. That way if it doesn't make enough power for you you can simply swap it for a larger GT30 based turbo and retune then. Bolt for bolt. Look at the recent FP 3076 HTA results for example. that is how I would do it anyway.
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You can buy less exhaust housing, can order with 71, 73 or 76 HTA just by simply emailing and asking. About $2,500 landed IIRC.
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There is no way of telling by the casting number alone, as the same housings are used for both GT30 and GT35. You will need to measure it and go from there. Is your 3076 a genuine item? Genuine Garrett? Whats the part number?
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So it stopped running while you owned it or it has never run while you owned it? Was there any significant event that caused it to stop running? First things first: check for fuel pressure, check for injector pulse and check that you have spark. On an RB you can simply unbolt the CAS and turn it by hand. You can then hear the injectors click and watch plugs spark without the motor cranking. Next check for compression. I have a feeling it may have bent some valves when it slipped the belt, but i am only speculating. Verdict: if it has fuel pressure, injectors pulse, has spark and has compression then it SHOULD run. Cam timing could stop it if it were majorly out, as could major intake leaks. Outside of the above you should be able to find the issue with those tests.
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Its a Volvo S40 housing man, normally its meant to have a little poppet valve on it which DOES vent back through that slot. For some reason Kando has produced the new ones with a 50/50 BOV which vents to the return slot before the turbo inlet AND atmo at the same time. Like those 50/50 turbosmart ones. Heres a photo of the OEM Volvo turbo with the OEM Volvo BOV which will clear things up for everyone: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbocharger-VOLVO-S40-V40-TD04L-19T-Twin-Scroll-250HP-/290905884957?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bb57891d&_uhb=1
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LOL I was thinking something similar when I began to write my post. Chuckled to myself then and furthermore now lolll
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If you over pre-load you will get boost spike and then taper. Try to have it hold one consistent boost pressure off the spring only. That actually looks OK. its making 150kw @ 4000 rpm which isnt THAT bad for a 200k+ auto. Have a fiddle with preload and just check VCT as said.
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Potentially quite good. I believe STATUS has a result for one of these, perhaps PM him or check his FB page as I think it was posted there. The combo appears to be a T04E stage 3 turbine with a 20G compressor, which has quite a good 'theoretical match' to the RB25. Somewhere between a GTRS and a GT30 is a reasonable way of thinking about it. Not sure of its worth considering the infinite feedback available on the HG highflow, especially when considering the after sales support.
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As above mate You simply unclip the actuator rod (don't do this when you have been driving, it will BURN) and see what kind of free distance there is between the hole on the arm and the post it is meant to slide over. Typically you are meant to have half a circle of pre-load, yet with some of the highflow configurations the turbine housing is seeing a lot more flow than the IWG was probably made to see, so giving extra pre-load can often help hold boost flat. For myself my SS1PU creeps from 15-18psi on my 10 pound actuator. I will be running without boost control and adding pre-load until it holds 1 boost setting completely flat. Then will add the boost controller back on and increase until desired pressure is reached.