GTScotT

Nice work on the strip :-) glad its now proven that the turbos can trap the speed. now its time for others to revisit their setups and their tuners.

looking forward to seeing the final results! Also keen to see IAT once boost is roughly doubled lol any prediction made in terms of final output?

The op6 would likely max out at the 280 mark with a respectable core/response outcome. stao has used a different turbine to sacrifice some spool but got high 300s from a 2iu on E85

the 5 bolt housing is iwg. so much info on this site its not funny.. doing this is no different to doing a 3071 or 3076.

Sorry to hear also.. That's really shit news. Can you hit them up for the cost of sleeving and a quick tear down? Surely not all is lost..

Yep, definitely choking. Going to the larger EWG housing will probably move it 500rpm to the right but then the curve will no longer dip at the 3500 mark. I would expect it to keep climbing instead and probably start to plateau at the 6k mark. Nice for the amount of power it has. What bore x stroke is that motor?

SL2 20G Trent has also made clear that the 10cm is the ducks guts lol

Noooooooo thats a backwards way of doing the EWG.................... IWG will be good enough for the application.

8cm and you reckon it was lazy down low?! Do you think that's because the turbine was choking at the lower shaft speeds (in that tiny housing) or a different reason? A 20G shouldnt be lazy down low, especially with an 8cm hey..

Sounds crazy Adam! Get it on a dyno and find out just how good it is I'm guessing thats a GTR cooler with some trick fab work?

I have fiddled with a few high comp turbo SR's and can tell you 9.5:1 is not that sensitive. Just need to plan your tune method carefully. Try to get a softer spring for sure. Maybe start tuning as low as 4psi and go balls out with the hardest tune possible. Then tidy up the tune as you wind up the boost. Either way full boost at 3200 and 258 sounds like a really good start. Edit: lol at lifter... I completely forgot to bleed mine, but they ended up self bleeding. Rev the arse out of it lol

How did you go? I am in talks with a friend who may have me build his SR and go a 7064 rather than the VQ conversion he was planning. Would love to see your final results before we make the decision.

Are you sure the 60mm wheels will see 400kw on 98?

that's the right way to do it, yet I detected OP did not want to pull lower timing case off as its the majority of the task in changing the belt (done 10ks ago). in which case you can be dodgey and do it the other way. myself id do it properly. just sayin'

oh right. this didn't make sense to me as a supra comes with an equally laid out motor. anyway, doesn't matter.

No worries. Good luck.

the gears can always let you unlock the best of what you have got, shifting the powerband just enough to make it what you were after. you wont need to change the belt when you change the gears though. Just put the motor to TDC on 1 and draw a mark on the belt where the mating marks sit on the gears. the new gears will have the mating mark in the same spot.

both posts are reason enough for me to try it. I have a stock S14 bov at home that I will look into refitting. Hope it can hold 20psi tho..

you think running no bov can have that drastic an effect? mine doesnt have one.. something I am missing you think?

1uzfe is a yota V8, disco

It's close enough to 2.5", so use 2.5" pipe near the turbo if you want it to be the same size. I would get a 2.5-3" reducer and make the pipe from 3", that way you can still use it if you upgrade the turbo later (stock position/highflow). Just remember to allow for the extra length the reducer takes up when you make the pipe. Ideally you will have the reducer on the turbo when your making the pipe. P.S. next time I will tell you to search.

lol be nice ^

Made the calls and cant make it for sunday man. Car has no rego and i got no one available to sign the UVP and take it down. Let me know when you wanna go for a Wednesday night instead.

Lol nice work Simon, I like. Looking forward to success stories. Lith I am not dismissing that the BW is a better turbo, or cheaper. Yet the cheaper variant has a twin scroll housing and marmon v-band clamp.. Limiting OP to certain manifold designs and harder to find clamps. T3 is $220 more, and 3" v-band $150. The T67 is a run of the mill T3 which he can find a manifold for like a root in a brothel, and it comes with its v-band flange and clamp which is cheaply and readily replaced. Be it myself I would do the BW... but then id be paying $1,200 for a manifold rather than the $400 for a cheap T3. I wouldn't go a china staino, even though most of those are T4 TS, just because I'd rather not be pulling it back off regularly due to cracks. Just my 2c really. I like the BW idea just as much as the T67.... Am just thinking in simplistic terms as thats what the topic calls for.

Consider it like buying a set of wheels. You get people who want all out function, people who want function with good fitment (most of us), people who just want perfect fitment (teh looks), and morons that just want the biggest chrome wheels they can fit under the car. OP essentially wants perfect fitment. Wants it to look awesome under the bonnet as the car is for looks, but wants it to be functional at a reasonable level. Like rims, perfect fitment looks awesome but probably wont have enough tyre to lap the tracks at ten tenths, they do a good job of being a road wheel/tyre and look awesome. He wants the car to drive reasonably well, make a reasonable amount of power at low boost levels and have a massive compressor housing so that it looks awesome when the bonnet is popped. I respect it because OP isnt the big chrome wheels guy of the turbo world. Isnt asking for 500rwkw turbo that spools at 3000rpm on his stock RB20. Its reasonable... A T67ish turbo will drive well and make say 220rwkw at 12psi? It will also look awesome under the bonnet, meeting all his targets. Le GF can take car to meets and look cool, while its still perfectly drivable/enjoyable on the road.