GTScotT

LOL no worries, hit me up if you get stuck on anything.

thats it, teach that c*nt a lesson hopefully i can borrow a go pro and can video me trying to rip the gearstick out the back window (as said by Jez himself on a prior test drive)

Looks like im gonna need to get out to WSID soon boys. Cant let my HG brothers go down like this!

Lith any idea what car that TR30R was set up on and the stroke/cam combo?

lol stao can build one for the normal L2 price. just ask for the Kamak STS 9 blade turbine

They are definitely not the OEM position... And they are relying on the motors ability to earth which it would probably have one single strap bolted onto the thermostat housing or similar. Which then goes through alloy to cast iron and back to alloy through layers of gasket goop and mainly relies on the bolts holding it together to earth. 100% you should do up an earth kit and have good earthing to the body AND multiple points on the motor. Make sure your earths are NOT secured to painted surfaces or there will be limited conductivity.

Try change the coil harness mate, they can cause all sorts of havoc. Make sure you have adequate earthing at the igniter and to the head. There is a strap from the stock coil harness to the firewall also IIRC and that needs to be sufficiently earthed too.

The re mfg pink cover is made in Australia, the rest of the world gets the japanese MFG silver cover item. That clutch is coming from the UK. You can also tell by the box where it says 'exedy racing clutch' with Daiken logos. Where as the said pink cover clutch will come with the ghey 'sports tuff' box.

guys FYI the following is 400 bucks delivered: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261045441228?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1390wt_1397 that is a GTR item which will work on any 240mm push type nissan clutch, RB25/SR20 included. the clamp load is 1100kg so 300kw shouldnt be an issue. drivability will be as close to stock as possible. hope that helps, NPC are good but you will be stunned @ the price.

To back this up with some real world data (for all future readers) companies like Forced Performance (FP) use an old school T3/T04E Sierra wheel in their current spec Evo Green and Red turbos. They are run in a twin scroll housing and with the tricky areo of their HTA compressor wheels the performance is nothing short of amazing. The same HTA tricks added to the GT30 UHP turbine is producing the results seen on BRI73Y's car noted in the other threads currently attracting attention. Lithium has a full and valid theory that the right combo of already available parts can meet and exceed the areas of performance an individual can be looking for. You just have to be willing to experiment and specifically to TRY. FYI Stao (hypergear) still has a stage 3 Sierra wheel on shelf and can CNC a billet compressor in whatever spec requested. He also has access to KAMAK TD06SL2 STS turbines which are the 9 blade version of the L2 turbine (typical results are from 11 bladers, KAMAK advertise 2/3s weight saving in comparison). He can build whatever it is you ask for roughly the 1k mark, give or take a few hundred depending on spec and housing requests.

I am aware of a TD06SL2 9 blade wheel actually! Maybe we should get Stao to see if the same is available via the foundries in Taiwan. Refer to: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Turbo-HIGH-END-TD06SL2-20GTX-AR-8-Nissan-Silvia-S13-S14-200SX-240SX-/140744047319?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c4ffbad7&_uhb=1#ht_5666wt_1163

gap to 0.8 Kane, if misfiring try 0.6 but if you need to go that tight its indicating your spark is weak. decent spark should be fine with .8

lol! thats pretty nutty sounding, coming alive as early as my SS1PU it sounds. The graph looks a fair bit later though.

ahk thats cool. what rev does it come alive from being flat?

oh its a .82? any reason why you chose the bigger housing? I haven't gone to the creek yet no, clutch failed 3rd time i took it up the street lol got the box out atm and replacement clutch in the post now. Just waiting and juggling priorities as I just bought a unit (to live in). I'll PM you when I'm going down if you want to have a crack

Its a bit laggy for an RB result Ron. Looks like its hitting at 5

lol generally i can do anything necessary.. yet that particular job was a FMIC on an NXR, which had to be custom. So they were employed to make up the pipes etc. Turns out they wanted some return business. ive done countless motor swaps and conversions myself, including a full build on my current SR. that was truly a one off. I may even learn to make my own pipes, screw having someone try to bend me over like that again. FYI I fixed that myself too lol kents

LOL I guess you win somewhere. So much for torque specs, SFT FTW!

same deal as td05h 20g all the lag of the bigger turbo, none of the power

LOL! how does it freaking get that bad.. admittedly tho, i got a cooler put on my car once and got it back from the mechanic with the two rear turbo bolts undone. the tabs had been pushes back and you could see the marks of double hex sockets being used on a long crooked extension. never want to have work done by a mechanic ever again, unless i absolutely have to.

Lol exciting times, can't wait to see what it does. I'm guessing its the big trim G3?

Lets not pick on the guy re what he chose as a project. It may be his fav car and fav motor rolled into one.. or maybe he just likes the idea. Either way its a pretty cool thing to have in the end. OP where are you located? There are some basics you can run through to make sure it SHOULD start. You will need a fuel pressure gauge in line from the fuel filter to the rail, and will need a noid light to check for spark, injector pulse and pressure. You can turn the CAS by hand to test.

lol go the giant external gate daz

The guy who posted just before your post has put a TD05H 18G 8cm on his RB20 and is soon to get it tuned. He had a TD06H 20G before and he said its 'definitely more punchy'. you can see that right above your post, if you would so graciously read the thread lol. as for a TD05H 20G thats not a known good combo. It will have the lag of a bigger turbo without the power. If you want more power than what the 18G can offer (say 240) then get yourself a TD06SL2 20G.

that thread was last posted in........ yesterday? i think the last thing we spoke of was an RB20 too...... HMM.............