GTScotT

yep ^ I think its more so the harsh turn that the air has to do in order to flow back the way it came which causes friction to the air's particles and super heats the charge after its already been through the cooler. You then have a nice cap on how much power you can actually make, and theres no way you can test it as pressure drops and air leaks have little to do with it. The core Adam is describing is the worst, where it basically hits a brick wall and is forced back the other way. I know the air particles business sounds airy fairy star wars but thats actually the way it works. air gets friction against itself and gets hotter.

Those cross flow kits are cheap man, and these return flow ones have been proven crud in the past. just swap it out to be sure and go from there.

Stao reply to my PM and maybe we can get the SS1PU on the gate too :-P

i've just ordered a lot of gearbox seals and bits to fix my leaks. I'll have us an SR SS1PU drag result soon. Will give hy_rpm a yell too, see how the two compare.

Stao ARTZ uses a gate off the housing and his results are stellar. I don't think there is anything wrong with a gate off the housing..

Waste of time. The BA/BF return flow cooler will heatsoak at 240rwkw as noted. The massive FG cooler will do the same thing at about 300kw, so neither of which are worthy options. Better off with an off the shelf cross flow china kit.

Adam I reckon its the return flow cooler. Those always cause havoc.. The turbo should make plenty more than that, especially with the H rear side. I'm assuming its a 20G compressor? 260+ should be more like it. The fact the tuner thinks the turbo is running out of puff definitely tells me the restriction is in the intake side.

Have you got a dyno sheet for the setup? Thanks,

No surge slots, its a T04B style compressor housing by the looks of it. I wouldnt discount anything because of the no surge slots, nor would I compare it to a GTX3071... Just consider it to be a reworked 2835. PT are saying it should spool better and make more power. So if you set your expectation to a reasonable result that a HKS 2835 would produce you shouldn't be disappointed. Remember that even if you bought an actual HKS 2835 it can still break your heart in terms of expecting the best, like any turbo. So don't aim for the maximum. Depending on your intended setup you could use either the .63 or .82, dependant on your manifold and gate combo. If you were to use the money saved on the turbo itself (compares to a GTX or HKS) you could put the money towards a decent manifold and I would then run a .63 and a heavy gate. If limited to the stock manifold I would probably stick to the .82 to try and keep heat away. Bare in mind HKS ran the thing in .67 internal gate housings so a .63 on a high mount with a 50mm gate would probably be pretty awesome. It should be said that a 2835 is actually laggier than a 3071 in terms of feel, but is more brutal in delivery. The GT30 wheel provides a more linear effect. You should expect roughly 270kw on 98, probably over 300 on E85 (up to 330 id say). To my understanding, cropping the wheel has the following effect: 'laggier' but more brutal delivery (come on boost a little later but reach full boost quicker), more flow yet falls off quicker (more midrange power but lower peak figure). It could be said that the powerband will be stronger yet narrower, taller yet not as broad. That is my view anyway. I hope this helps.

For the one asking about the cropped GT30 with GTX67 compressor, or anyone wanting to experiment with a cutprice HKS 2835 i do have an alternative... Clicky: http://www.precisionturbo.net/turbochargers/aftermarket-replacement/details/Aftermarket-Replacement-Turbocharger---5130/76 This is effectively a cropped GT30 turbo and a custom billet 71mm wheel. So its pretty darn close to a proper 2835, but with what PT consider to be an improved compressor. Definitely something I think an RB25 owner would want to try if looking for sub 300kw and bulk torque (on 98).

For a BB I had read in the past they want a -3 line. I may be wrong though, bloody delicate things.

My ears have pricked up. This is not the 500whp I was aiming for as my long term plans for the SR, but this could be something rather potent none the less.

Its been rebuilt Dave, just factory spec tho. So the result is indicative of a vgc motor.

Lol awesome! Also glad to see an ss1pu trapping good speed! Good work Daniel!

Is yours BB or JB? And are you certain its oil smoke? Check cooler plumbing and plugs for signs of oil leaking from the compressor side. Most leaky PT threads I have seen are comp side and the leak can be seen on idle with the pipes off.

lol laggier than anticipated, yet take that to the drags and see what you get

Have you got the right stud kit for starters and have you installed the right lengths at the right points? Are they ALL only 5mm out? Also, are all the main caps seated properly? Tapped them down flat with a nylon hammer?

Good thing its the same compressor on the FP Red!

LOL should have read ARTZ thread, Mark He only took off the TB.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTGT3076HTA&Category_Code=Turbo-FP Plus about 150 to ship it.

Impressive none the less! A run in tune and its ramping up in the early 300 mark. I can imagine at full pelt and 30 odd PSI its going to crank something severe. I may need to consider one of these for myself!

LOL beat me to it ARTZ, your post came in before I could reply! I was writting the below post: I believe ARTZ managed to fit EV14s into his R33 with a certain rail etc. Perhaps PM him or maybe he will chime in. ID1000's = EV14s that have been built/flow matched by ID. IIRC ARTZ is running XSPURT injectors which are also EV14s but built by XSPURT instead of ID.

John is that HP or KW?!

got one to sell? based on prior feedback apparently these work better on SR's than 3076's do. wouldnt mind testing that theory if priced right!

lol Dave is your 260 at only 15psi?! Turn up the whick man, what the faaaark.