GTScotT

A friend of mine has a -10 GTR with 400kw, states hes been taken in 370kw -5 cars which make him say WOW. He reckons the haul of the midrange is very notable and better than the darth vader shuffle.

lol happens to the best of us.

Really.. maybe I wrongly estimated that turbo as I was think more 100kw above those figures when on ethanol. time will tell I guess! Fingers crossed for a good result.

lol easy now. im not suggesting that the kando will be as good as the trust item. It may be, or may not be. No one knows. I'm just saying that in theory the Trust items do fine without as has Simon, so I would not be fearful of running an oil only core.

Oh sorry I always get DART and Pulse confused LOL! I was aiming to give some reassurance in the rich side of things with a DART tune, but it turns out that was irrelevant lol. I have also had mates tune at pulse with nothing but positive feedback too, so I'm sure it will turn out great.

A friend of mine had his GTR tuned by DART at one stage and reckons the tune was also quite fat but he preferred the on road outcome to any other. The same GTR has been tuned by a few different shops chasing the right outcome. To my understanding the DART tune was the best even though it ran fat.

Oh MAN. So jelly! I've been considering one of these as stage 2 of my build. Will be watching this thread like a hawk for results now. Whats your goal for power?

Simon did fine. I'm pretty sure that they are heartier when used on a high mount. The heat would escape a little easier. All the Trust items are also oil only.

I'm dying to know what turbo this is........ No fair!

Good stuff mate it sounds like your on the right track. Personally I wouldn't port or cam an RB20, they are pretty sweet as they are provided you dont expect way over 300kw. Moving to an adaptronic ecu or a Link G4 will give you the ability to run a GM ethanol content sensor and can get a flex tune done. That will give you the ability to fill up with 98 for the results you have already, or pop in E85/eflex for the results your chasing. Changing to ethanol should give you the additional spool and power your actually looking for, and be the best bang for buck based on your current position. Cheaper than head work with better results IMHO.

Realistically you wont need to do the work at the shop. You can do it all at home and then limp the car to the tuner. Moving the AFM will make it run like shit but will still run. No issue. I would simply move the pipe to the drivers side inner guard, just after the cooler, and would leave everything else as it is.

I wouldnt bother plumbing back unless your going back to stock bov in stock position dude. the aftermarket bovs will require more force to open them and the turbo will still create reversion when the throttle snaps shut, before the bov has a chance to do its thing. If you are truly limited to the Nistune then your best idea would be to move the AFM to the cold side cooler pipe. Do this before the tune and your tuner should easily be able to rescale the AFM so that it works properly. The problem will be solved and you can keep the HKS BOV and the better intake pipe make sure your AFM is in good condition and doesnt leak. I wouldnt go back to the stock intake pipe as you will probably end up with a bigger turbo regardless and the AFM will need to be moved anyway. So may as well move the AFM now.

What GTSBoy said is this: This problem is caused by not having a recirc bov. It actually started happening after you changed the intake pipe because the stock intake pipe is designed to prevent this to some extent. So until you changed the pipe it wasnt bad enough for the car to stall. The problem is called reversion. Reversion is when you lift off the throttle the turbo will start to slow down and 'flutter' (dose - whether you can hear it or not). The reversion is the soundwaves travelling back up the intake pipe and mucking up the AFM signal, making the engine stall. Two things that help prevent reversion is A: the stock recirc bov (because it cuts out as much flutter as possible) and B: the stock accordion intake pipe (because the shape/design of it helps stop the soundwaves getting to the AFM). The stock recirc bov and the intake pipe are both very good at preventing this, and the stock bov also opens with VEEEERY little effort/boost. You would find that putting an atmo bov would cause this problem even when your not hitting boost. its that sensitve. on my car I have a 3" metail intake pipe, one 90 degree bend and two opposing 45s. I get very little reversion, it runs fine. No bov at all.

As above the Precision items are generally aimed at more power than 300 with high pressure ratios. You will be giving away response instead of gaining. I would stick with the current turbo and just work on improving the setup in whole. Make sure that all your intake piping and exhaust is done well and no issues. From there I would invest in a flex capable ECU as you will probably pick up some off boost torque and get closer to the 300 mark once you move to ethanol. I dare say the move to flex will give you exactly what your looking for (assuming your car is set up well as is). Good luck mate, sounds like a nice car already.

the Kando lines are fine all the precision turbos will be pretty laggy on a normal RB20. more fun could be had from a smaller more cost effective option. what kando have you got on it now? are you getting the most from that, before you go bigger? to my knowledge the RB20 will start to show its constraints closer to the 300kw mark.

3 strikes, your out. Time to get your leccy skills on.

If it dropped 2 cylinders under load with a weak battery I would say there is tarnished/perished wiring somewhere in the engine bay. Make sure youve got good earthing at minimum.

Yep I also think a slippery launch still nets decent MPH, bogging out is more likely to cost you speed than spinning a little. Stao does $200 also apply to my SS1PU?

I had a similar issue which ended up being damaged wiring on the igniter side. Cylinders 3 and 4 kept arking out when under load. The coils would work fairly normally when id pull one out and test it earthed against the intake etc. Luckily the wiring was physically damaged so wiggling it would make it sputter and i was able to find the breaks. Without having the car at home and diagnosing these things yourself its really hard to be sure of whats going on..

Im pushing for unigroup but its something weve been squabbling over for a while now. Will run a link G4 for sure.

Keen to see what a little NOS can do on a setup like this. Hopefully you get the win!

Is going into an S15 with stock manifolds and Z33 6 speeder

I only mentioned the 6 bolt outlet as an option as we are considering costs. staying 6 bolt will mean 1 less thing you need to change, hey HG regularly makes all the options with simple V band outlets or similar. PM Stao about a price, it may be better than whats on the site. For 220-240kw I personally dont think the T04E would be on the marker for performance, which is why im making the recommendation I am (and believe in it so strongly). If you were aiming for upper 200s it would possibly be worth the gamble. I do have faith that there still is a place for the T04E in the market, yet not many people will agree. If you havent read I own an SR with an SS1PU which produced a respectable result, within what your actually looking for. Being an SR the result wouldnt be identical, but you should get a reasonable idea. Jez also tuned an SS1PU on an RB20 with the stock log manifold and made an easy 225kw from memory.

lets not get our knickers in a twist. I dont see how a garrett could be cheaper than a HG, or how you could consider a kando to be half the price if you had read this thread all the way through. Kando VS HG is something that has been discussed on nearly half the pages in here. A HG shouldnt cost you any more than $1,100 regardless of which model your looking at. A kando will cost $800, plus $400 for a gate, and probably another $500 to hang the gate off the housing and make a custom dump. The HG will come with the same 6 bolt dump flange you have now if you want it to and will bolt right on as an internal gate. None of the options available can be said to be better than the other, they all have their ups and downs and you need to read the threads to familiarize yourself with them.

Lol I said 500whp not 500rwkw! I wish you went to the drags Stao, I would love to see the MPH of SS2 vs 20.5g