GTScotT

If OP wants a simple 400whp a good option is a simple HG G3. No thought required. Just buy, bolt on and work out some very simple things like a silicon bend and an intake pipe.

Jez stopped at 400 to preserve the motor. To my knowledge the tune is not as aggressive as it could be, for safety factors. On his dyno it didnt plot much worse than his -7s. Very epic.

Good point!

Ahh ok. Hopefully you get it sorted fairly easily mate! The under bonnet presetation is amazing. Looking forward to results to match.

Thats odd, what pistons are they? I will be doing first start up of my fresh SR in a couple of weeks and am concerned about getting something wrong. I am under the impression that idling the thing too long before getting into the run in to cause this sort of issue. Was this the case for you?

What patience! Out of curiosity what is the suspected cause for the excessive blowby?

WHOA.. Where did that info come from Simon?

The genuine garrett .82 will be better suited. The .73 (10cm) kando housing is a tiny thing. There are also better options available for that sort of power when talking 'responsive' and 400kw on a dirty thirty. Bare in mind a 35R is similar in size to a precision 6262. A bush bearing PT can be had for roughly 1k delivered, and would be a hands down winner if you went for the T4 TS option. Single gate to keep costs low will still work a treat.

You can get Kando T3 8cm housings, I was looking at them only last night. OP you would be best just buying a kando buddy. Buying a used trust item with all the brand tax isnt going to get you any extra power or anything really. The kando items work fine and are cheaply and easily repairable (new CHRA only $350ish). Realistically I dont think you will get some sort of game changing result going from 2871 to TD06 either. The TD06 is likely to make better use of the upper rev range but the 2871 definitely shouldnt be a bad thing. If you 2871 is a .64 and isnt performing you may want to look into why its not performing rather than changing it. If you just arent impressed with what its got but its performing as it should, you should re thing the TD06 also. Like I said it wont be a total game changer.

im fairly certain that a 10cm housing has more of a taper on the exit side of the T3 flange than it does on the CHRA side, whereas an 8cm has the same amount of taper from the flange on both sides and the snail shell is a little thinner. This is my observation but im not honestly sure this is correct!

thats quite early but i think the 8cm would be even earlier. take a few photos of the rear housing, i am fairly confident i can tell the difference. Take pics from around the flange area.

what rev is it on song? I think an 8cm would be on very early but fall over even earlier

for 450kw on on a cammy 3L you really wont need a 6766, that is a large turbo. A 6262 should push that power without any hassle on E85, the 6266 will possibly do it a bit easier at the expense of a little lag but possibly more midrange and up. Could be worth it.

three word reply

sticky IACV clean it search how

Has anything else changed since it had the 3540 on it? Also, Why did you change from the 3540?

That is really off putting hey.. Seems to me like the delays may have been surrounding the turbine housing production and may have even been the cause of those turbine wheel failures. This new 'ugly duckling' housing might be from a more reliable source but at the cost of glamour. Thats just me guessing though, my 2c worth anyway.

I'm fairly sure all that's between the ecu and the solenoid is the main 12v circuit and a control wire direct from the ecu. That being said I doubt there is an actual problem with the wiring or the solenoid itself. Most likely a calibration issue as mentioned.

Thats generally what happens when guys misplace their balls. a woman convinces you selling the car is necessary, and may even drop a threat if u don't.. so you sell the shit to buy a house. Wow 10k closer to your deposit.. a while later you round up the remaining cash and buy the house, and you think to yourself... Gee I'd really love a skyline again. Well too bad. For starters ur Mrs knows she could make u sell it and that she can probably stop you buying too. That and the fact you now have a mortgage and are on struggle street, not to mention your Mrs now wants a child.. all the while you realise you could have just garaged the car and kept it for a rainy day.. coz you still want the thing and the 6k it was worth was only 6 months worth of saving anyway - but now you have a mortgage and will never buy another car again. I hope this has been educational. Men cannot function without a productive hobby, and women need to realise this by being told. No hobby turns you into a waste of a person, always down and depressed. Don't do it. get rid of the girl before you get rid of the car. Mark my words.

Piczorban

It usually means an intake restriction more than anything. Consider: If your boost was going up but power wasnt, and it wasnt massively DET prone, it would likely be an intake restriction. If boost was going up, power not increasing by much, is detonating easily AND not making the right power then its probably an exhaust restriction. If boost is going up, already nearly at the right power, and not making extra then the turbo is probably close to its limit and your motor as a whole (package) is why its not meeting expectation.

For me, I think a reliable 500whp (but not much over) RB is as follows: Upgrade valve springs and retainers Appropriate cams Forged pistons Entry level H beam rods Larger capacity sump Oil pump drive collar Quality oil pump Oil restrictors to head (see KiwiRS4T sig for a collar and restrictor deal) Head studs With that stuff there and a 35R sized turbo you will have a good reliable engine that will do your 500whp everyday and wont end up letting you down. You can skip the internal work and replace the motor when/if it dies possibly every year or two. This is a guestimate. Please note the general consensus is that 20k is not enough to turn a stock skyline into a 500whp machine and 30k is more likely.

Sadr33 what are you doing Saturday morning/tomorrow? I'd be happy to have a listen and see if I can identify the sound.

Suicide you mean? It's not that bad, only a motor. It can be fixed, along with a real turbo and supporting mods.

I give up. You clearly know more than I do. I look forward to reading your blown motor thread