GTScotT
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Everything posted by GTScotT
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Sure enough the SS1PU wont be laggy, but possibly different to what you asked for. On the SR that came up recently it seemed to behave similar to a 2860 with the stock cams (actually better than a 2860 all round). So maybe that is a good option, same setup as birds has.
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I think a T28 would be too much effort for the result. A G1 is more or less a 2860, and will be able to be highflowed into the stock housings. Why not try that? It should have really good response and a good gain in midrange torque. I think you need more torque than you do better boost response. A G1 will feel like its always on boost regardless, the weight of the car will spool it up earlier and if its an auto the stall converter will also work in your favour. Such is my vote.
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I hope you dont mean it is running 10 degrees ignition retard lol Sounds very promising either way!
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The best thing you can do is form a total understanding of what you plan to build. Know and understand every part and don't leave a stone unturned. Put this all on paper. Next step is to make phone calls and send emails to put dollar value to everything you know. I definitely think 20k can scrape through.. but that is assuming you don't change anything drivetrain related. Motor setup and clutch only, tuned. I recently built my own motor. Cost me 3500 in rounded up figures to build an SR that will hold the power your talking about. I kept the head very simple but I think I could get it there within another 1500 (5k total). All work done by me, except machine work. it will be a long difficult process to keep it under 20k but you can do it.
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Birds I thought you had stock housings on both sides, didn't realise you had the actual FNT rear housing. That's cool. I think stao was saying the ss2 in all stock housings for the stagea. I'm sure that would be awesome yet I'm not sure that would meet the request of faster spool than stock. That was an interesting ask lol
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All PT 4" covers are the same. You can order them in various sizes but if u order an SP cover (like everyone does) its the same 4" item for 5558 as it is for 6262
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If ron can fit a 5558 between the strut tower with a 12mm spacer im sure the T67 will fit too. Im confident the comp cover will be similar in size to stao's .70 or a T04Z/precision etc. No issue there. The issue is more so that the exhaust housing flange will be a different distance from the centre point of the CHRA. Realistically it makes no difference how much spacer plate you use provided that the comp housing clears the exhaust manifold.
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In the photo from the front of the 3037 you can see there is a squarer area pointing downward on the lower part of the canister. That has a flat surface with a threaded hole in it, which accepts the same nipple which is on the upper part of the canister. I doubt they would make two of them, but not advertise them differently. They only advertise one kind The second port is not blocked, its just open. It doesnt effect the way the top port works because it puts pressure on the underside of the diaphragm. It will help to hold boost up top for sure. If by some off chance you get one with only a single port im sure the reason would be that they changed MFG or something like that. So the chances of getting a different one is very slim.
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Hey mate, I was meant to install on Saturday yet the weather (and my own build) got in the way I have had word of mouth that they work well though, I think Stao also experimented with one from the same MFG and states it works well and is a versatile item. Can be preloaded better etc. Re fitting to your GTX, the front cover on the GTX71 is the same size as the regular .60 3076(3037) cover which is pictured on the add. So it will fit with that dogleg shaped bracket. No concerns. GL
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That doesnt sound right. It should tighten enough to make the core and rear housing hold solid. Have you emailed Eiji?
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You can get an atomizer that will run at very low pressure but the benefits will be minimal at best. Mafia is right that the kits come with big pressure pumps, but im not sure if they opperate at that sort of pressure continuously. You can easily do an effective pre turbo WI setup the way I described. Boost pushing through an atomizer before the turbo. You will need a ball and spring like a turbotech to prevent boost getting through before target pressure though. Otherwise you will get a trickle of droplets coming through before you hit target boost pressure. This will work and has been done before.
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first 50 callers get a dustbuster! you can use it as an electric turbo for your turbos turbo.
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lol sigh. you guys are no help. why not just take advantage of the hot-cold pressure drop then? Get a low pressure atomising nozzle and run boost from the comp housing into an air tight tank with the other side plumbed just before the TB with a check valve. get it together for $20 bucks, could even pick up a set of steak knives within the budget if you wanted. but wait, theres more.
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Make an offer on my Snow stage 2 kit. Comes with everything you will need to do it properly. Boost reference proportional adjustment (digital), bottle, lines, pump, fittings. Brand new unused. Save yourself the hassle of using rubbish and just buy a brand new kit at a second hand price, my loss your gain.
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http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MANIFOLD-STUDS-M10-X-55MM-1-5mm-PITCH-4-6-GRADE-PACK-OF-10-/200726371096?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2ebc395b18&_uhb=1#ht_1632wt_1137 solved postpone the job another week, fine by me
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If that ^ doesn't work Just go to repco and ask for falcon studs. Take a nut with you to check thread size
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I think I heard Ford AU 6 cylinder exhaust studs are the right size?? Otherwise why dont you PM Stao
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Peak torque is 3/4 up the powerband, no wonder your not happy.. Im really with the others and will say spend wisely and just get real turbos. To match the peak you will need -5s. Check serial numbers before you do anything, obviously..
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20psi? why stop there? lol keep boosting till you find where it stops making power. tis what I will be doing with my SR SS1PU
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Jarryd have you posted your results? Looks sweet.
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Sure it can be done, but it all comes down to cost mate. Someone has to pay for tooling, and in this case the job gets done at a high level of quality for a very good price. Why muck with it? The Taiwanese MFG's do produce a 3" vband out housing (ala T67) for the GT30 range which im sure Stao could adapt to his turbos. But considering the fact he has done so well with his Type B 5 bolts there would have to be some really MAJOR demand for him to sit and try that housing and then see if he can again optimise it further like he has with the EXISTING HOUSINGS. Requires fab work and all, when we already have one that works and is available to everyone. Leave it be...
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The housing pictured is genuine Garrett. Have you seen what GCG want for such a thing? Its robbery. Im sure you can get a copy from China, but that will require testing to make sure it works like the original does. As has been said, why change something that works and that Stao has put that much R&D into?
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The bolt on piece is because the housing Stao uses is a 5 bolt style rear. What is the point of re-engineering a whole housing when you can just bolt a plate on the back of the one that works? He may spend forever finding a housing that suits the application (and actually works) when a simple interchangeable rear means the one good housing which works well can be used for both internal and external application with only a few bolts. End user gets a benefit in that case also, with ability to swap out. I think its fine.
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Personally I prefer number 1. For starters the price is more realistic and the mod list doesnt sound like a shopping list (like number 2 does). Its tuned by Trent which is a plus as hes very reliable and makes a solid number which matches the setup it has. It also is the newer model which is cool and has brembos. Number 2 has the better ECU and a garrett turbo but also makes mention of a CES split dump which indicates the 3071 has one of those skyline specific 'sonic' housings on it. That simply makes me question the power a little and is off putting you could end up spending more to fix this. His list is also longer but includes everything hes done on it, including what type of radio it has and that hes machined his disks. so its longer to look at but not necessarily all as relevant as number 1s list (considering what would make me buy a car anyway). Plus the price is a liiiiittle unreasonable IMHO. I hope this helps.
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The TD05H seems to pump a fair amount of volume on a 4G63, up to 300kw on E85 from memory (with custom spec compressors). Trent has also said 280kw from one is not hard to achieve. (TD05H 18g 10cm). That being said. 280kw from an SR or 280kw from an RB is the same amount of exhaust gas flow regardless. Power = flow. Right? You have the thing able to be put on, just trial it on your own car and see.