GTScotT
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Everything posted by GTScotT
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Stao I think you should try the TD05H 18g on the RB25. I think it will surprise you in terms of being a decent <250kw.
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Agreed. I can't remember the model name that I worked on where both were on the same side yet the return was from the top for sure.
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That CHRA is a copy of an MHI core which has 4 water ports. On some models they come from factory using 2 ports from the same side. If Mitsubishi fit em up like that from stock, I doubt they would agree that you cannot do it.
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Make sure its a twin scroll 6262 if u do
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You can use whichever water ports you want. Even both on the same side works fine.
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what size was the replacement flapper Jez? and how much power have you got it cranking now?
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thats a nice result from the PU h/f Stao, can you reconfirm what the spec is of the G2.5?
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LOL thats a good idea. In practice I am told its like having E85 on tap - which helps those who don't have the stuff available. For me my entire car hits a whole other level of money, time and effort at anything above 240kw. So instead of going for my ultra responsive 10:1 CR 240kw on WMI I have gone for an SS1PU with a DET motor instead. I think I will still get what I want with a little less off boost punch. The WMI kit would make my setup even better Im sure, boosting power to 280odd shouldnt be an issue.. But the issue there is that SR gearboxes arent so 280kw friendly and neither is my near new clutch. So rather than reinvent the wheel I have worked so hard to create I am just going to enjoy my 240 kw and sell the unused WMI kit.
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I had planned it for a very high comp DE+T setup, but since then went about forging my DET instead. So its fairly redundant to me now as my SS1PU will do what I want it to do without the WMI.
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thats probably what killed it. be interesting to see what you find in there.
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lol ahhh sigh. all good. they arent an ultra hot seller anyway, im sure someone will be looking to buy sooner or later.
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Each to their own, but thanks for helping my cause
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You wont really know for sure until you rip it apart, which I recommend is the next thing you do. If you pull it all apart you might find some simple issues and can salvage the remainder of the built motor. If you make an assumption that the problem is X Y or Z and try to fix that you could just be in for more headaches and lose the rest of the goodies the motor has to offer.
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On this note I have a nice little kit I would like to sell Come at me bro!
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I have one of those at home but am yet to use it. I will update that in a few weeks if you can wait. Its actually a 2 port actuator, just ask Eiji for a second nipple as the thread is there. You can undo the top and rotate it, yes. It's a good quality item from what I can see. No issues from me.
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Yeah you can use the stock manifold on the smaller 20g, but he's right about the rest of it and the question was specifically asking for a 6 bolt option. if you want a 6 bolt internal gate you will have to look at hypergear. even the 6 bolt 3076s have proven to suck compared to the full custom route. so long story short if you want a good low hassle bolt on turbo you need to look at a hypergear. anyone wanting something different or more custom for whatever reason can look into all the other options.
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why didnt i get a 38mm ss1pu lol
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Roy my understanding is that in an internal gate turbo the main exhaust stream from the turbine actually sucks the gas from the WG flapper. So in this case its still possible that the design will still work, and pending results it may work well. As proven in the kando thread, that specific shitty housing was still shitty with its arse lopped off to operate like a normal 5 bolt rear. So its not necessarily the WG design that makes it shitty, but just that housing in general.
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I searched for RB20 3076 in the forced induction section and got plenty of results to read. Do that.
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That would fit any of the 60mm wheels Id say. G2/2.5/3/SS2 My point about the JJR dumps is not so much that they have suddenly became crap, but that we should find an alternative so that people can continue their love affair with the bolt on HG
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^ Exactly. One of the best things about a HG is that it bolts on and is zero hassle. Photos of Stao's adapter next to an OEM gasket shows his machine work is second to none and is as good as it can get in terms of being matched to the gasket. You cant ask for better. Now that we know that JJR quality has gone down hill for the 1 piece dumps all we need to do is find an alternative. My money is on the Xforce.
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Anyone with an xforce dump want to compare for gasket match sake? If we can identify a better dump stao won't need to make new rear housings for everyone
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And the man knows his stuff ^ best boily I know!
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OH. I missed the bit where you edited my post. IMHO difference will be next to zer0. All assuming the IWG isn't actually hindered by reducing it to a V-band out. If the drain pipe is of concerns I would heat wrap the dump and put reflective race tape on the drain hose.
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Neg. Spool would have an effect too as it takes more mechanical effort to crack the 40mm gate than it does the 29mm flapper. benefit you describe as 'up top' would actually start from the moment your on full boost. I am guessing you will be able to wind in more timing as pre turbine gas pressure would have a decent reduction. please don't make the decision on my opinion alone though, as I don't want to feel solely responsible if it doesn't work as well as I might imply lol