GTScotT

Every R33 is different, some will start to go backwards after 10psi some will go to 14. You will feel as you increase the boost a pound at a time that it will either gain power or lose lots of power. 12psi is a safe maximum if you dont want the turbo to die too quickly, but use the method i mentioned above to see if you can even get to 12... My R33 went backwards in power above 10psi, so I left it at 9. As stated by the others, unless you do the reading yourself you wont have a real understanding of whats happening because we will be just telling you yeah do this and yeah do that.. If you read it yourself through all the threads we already have you will form your own understanding of how to do it and what works. That way you can build the car once with no hiccups.

To make it simpler just get one welded on the cooler pipe as close to the turbo as possible. Should work to the same effect mate. Stao is it possibly you can produce these with a nipple on the cover from now on? I was a little when I didnt find a reference nipple on mine but there were 2 casting marks indicating where it could be fitted.

Double check how you hooked it all up and the condition of the hoses etc. make sure there are no leaks anywhere.

The best thing to do would be to read some threads. You will probably sit there for weeks reading discussions about how people did their setup and lots of random crap but by the end of it you will have a really solid understanding of what you need and whats going on. Half the questions you have are fairly common knowledge and arent of concern during the build. Im not being a prick when I say this, but do yourself the favour and read read read. You will NOT regret it in the long run.

Actuator reaction. If the surge is created by a minor overboost at those revs/throttle then moving the reference nipple will mean the actuator reacts quicker and can overcome the problem. Thats assuming the surge is created by that specific issue.

You want it to be as close to the compressor housing of the turbo as possible. If your running actuator pressure you can also pop a nipple on the comp housing and run it straight from there to there.

50cm?? Thats half a meter before.. Is there even half a meter of pipe from cooler to TB?

its far from between a 3076 and a 3582... its a 76mm compressor and 60mm turbine, just like a 3076 but it has larger trims on both sides.

lol no dont drill out the hole dude.. its fine as manufactured. The oil line can be done in 2 ways on the PT, either with the threaded hole or the 2 bolt flange. Seeing as the 2 bolt flange came in one easy kit we went with that for yours. Instead of buying multiple components to do the same job.

LOL yeaaappp. How good is it? FYI Kando sell the same item for a T3/T4 oil drain as they do for an RB stock turbo. My bet is that the stock oil drain, with the possibility of a slight elongate on the holes, will bolt straight on.

To be fair and cover both ends, the HG works well and is proven also. The comment I made regarding changing the turbo from IWG to EWG applies to either. Im not suggesting there is a higher likelihood you will want to change the HG over the GT, I am suggesting that if you go IWG on either option that the HG will save your pocket twice where as the Garrett will cost you a packet. If you do decide to go Garrett I recommend you go external gate, or at least beware what housing you are sold when you go IWG Garrett. It has been noted that there are 2 genuine Garrett housings for the IWG item with different size WG flappers. You obviously need the larger one.

Yeaaap that would be doing it lol. Turbo likes to spool hey.. Nice.

Nup. On a comp map the surge line is the top one. So for it to be surging it would need to be running too much boost at too low a flow rate. IE running 3 bar of boost at 2000RPM with it would make it surge. calculate the motors flow at 2000RPM and then check where it is in line with 3 bar of pressure, it will be way above the surge line of the map. SO yeah.

Hope it sounds epic for you mate! Girls go weak at the knees for some gate

Agreed that those are good results, but like anything there are good and bad cases. I just cant help but say buyer beware. My 2c has been and gone anyway, on with the thread.

Any work to your motor Troy? Like skimmed head, decked block, etc?

For me having melted a 3076 CHRA on a shitty 2.6 astron motor due to a poor choice of turbine housing, and reading another member nuke cores from a similar build CHRA probably due to a similar reason makes the reference fairly relevant. When I said I hate to flog a dead horse I just mean that I hate to harp about Noel smashing cores, like he needed a constant reminder. Remember that 300kw of 3076 is probably a not much cooler charge than 400kw of 3582 with the same exhaust housing (Gt30 .82 housing on both), except the GT30 has a more restrictive exhaust wheel. Sure enough not all things are equal, but the feedback is entirely relevant for me and I wouldnt want to go there based on Garrett's current level of after sales support (again my own experiences tie in). In the end the 3076 on that sigma costed GCG tax x 2, and its not even a DOHC RB30...

How can you tell the difference between .82 type A and B if they all have the same stamp? lol

I hate flogging a dead horse and I feel bad for the guy based on his experience, but Noel (FineLine) had a horrible time with .82 35R nuking the CHRA on his 3L. I'm not sure I'd be game.. But sure enough it would go really farking well.

Semi agree for 2x but not 3 lol. The CP's are top quality pistons so I'm not worried there at all. The Manley rods are rated as good for 175hp each, which is 700 total. ACL race bearings are used in much higher HP application and the stock crank again has been used in much higher HP cars also. I havent studded the crank tunnel and the block is not going to be grout filled so I will say the safe limit of this motor will be roughly 400kw. If 500kw was available I would push it there but I would expect it to lunch a rod at the first sign of WOT detonation. If I was to redo it in a couple of years (for the 400kw mark) I would lift the head again and do a 3 angle valve grind with stronger valves, opening up the ports a touch while im at it. I havent touched the ports this time around and valves have been left 180xxxKM proven.

heres a photo of the shit box itself, and you will need to take my word for it on the rest

LOL nice, I do see that you traul the same threads we do haha. Glad to see more PT results are going to filter through now tho. I was so tempted to jump on one too, but cost and simplicity won in the end (read GF won in the end). Im confident the SS1PU will get me what I want for now and my motor will be built for up to 600whp, so I can always go bigger if funds permit later down the track. As a quick update to my build I do have my SS1PU at home already, and just finished my buy on all motor parts. Am running CP pistons, manley rods, ACL race bearings, Tomei Poncams, BC cam gears/valve springs/titanium retainers, ARP head studs and all genuine nissan chains/pumps/guides and bolts. Once the final bits and pieces arrive in the mail over the next 2 weeks I'll be playing lego and will probably pop up some photos somewhere on here. Fingers crossed for a very responsive 250kw.

We made quite a stink over it, and the information I have given is what was determined by garrett. The turbine housing was glowing white. I dont mean to step on any garrett fans toes, just my own personal experience.

On the sigma turbo I worked on with my brother. Never really told you about it, as I was never really proud of it LOL

lol I doubt it ron. The innards of most braided oil lines is that small anyway mate. Keep in mind that an oil feed restrictor for BB turbos is normally half a mm (0.5mm) or similar.