GTScotT

check for spark, check for fuel. If there is spark, and there is fuel coming to the rail, then check fuel pressure (pinch the return hose and see if that changes anything). if u have spark, fuel, pressure, then put an LED/noid light on an injector plug and make sure uve got injector pulse. if uve got everything, it should start and id be asking my mate what else he did other than moving it off the lawl

LOL just geeing, will be fun either way

haha all good. 18 monthsish to go and ill be back on the scene, ill give you a spin mate dw see how a real engine performs LOL!

sif not crack 350 on the jungle juice

Did I read correct and the results on the prior page were a garden variety GT or was that a typo and its a. GTX?

Lmao kasko the clutch killer. never driving my car, good effort tho

yeah i would say the flap is actually the divider.. which blocks one side and opens the dividing area so gas can pass through to the other split. nifty, but i dont like it lol.

yeah an organic isnt as bad as people think they are provided the pressure plate has the right clamp load. i tend to recommend them over buttons in most applications.

Those symptoms point to the clutch being highly glazed. you should order an organic HHHD next time. high clamp load but a forgiving material.

both those clutches are cushions. the way you tell is if there is a full disk or if there are paddles. full disk are cushion (theres a wave plate between the two outer surfaces), paddle clutches are the non cushion type. my favourite type of clutch are the multi paddle ones, sprung centre and 6 or more paddles. they are rarer, the exedys are usually 3, 4 or 5 paddles as a maximum. the more surface area you have the friendlier the clutch is to use. I think thats a better way of making the thing manageable than a pissy wave plate. that being said ive got a pissy cushion button in my car too

Next to the passenger side strut tower. it will be heavily concealed by pipes and heat shields. its not that silly a question, when i was a teenager and only first getting my hands dirty it was like an epiphany moment when i found the turbo on a friends car. admittedly they thought that was really lame but i was still in awe of my own achievement

lol eh, Jase works

STATUS to the rescue. I would have bought some pigtails and soldered em on.. leave the original plugs there too for ease of switching back later (or selling the car). Whatever works.

I got a car to pass (it should have failed horribly) by putting heat range 5 plugs in it and putting about 1/3 E85 and 2/3 98. Passed with flying colours.

For Ron and others, the motors tolerances are designed to be optimal when at operating temperature. Meaning there is more wear when cold, especially under higher load. The oil is not flowing as well when cold and is not designed to protect the motor as well when cold. The excess fuel (shown in poor consumption) ends up in the oil and breaks it down, meaning shorter service intervals and poorer protection properties and therefore extra wear on the motor. Leave the Skylines at home boys, unless there are teenage girls working in your office teenage girls love skylines, come 22 though and they think its very immature you still own one. True story.

Guys just so you know that sort of thing is really bad for the longevity of your motor. Very harsh conditions they were never designed to endure.

i think 4200 is fairly realistic and you should get closer to the 500whp mark in a perfect world. are you gonna run a highmount and all the rest? my personal opinion is that your seeing 98 results out of your 35R... you should have better on the pineapple juice. who tuned it?

My take on the T67 (on 98 ron) is that it will be similarly as responsive as a 3076, yet make the same sort of number you expect from a 35R (about 330rwkw). Thats only on 98 though, on E85 the 3076 seems to open up A LOT and the two are similarly on par. That being said the 35R is usually up to 400kw worth on a good setup with E85, and Simon is... well... making that too lol Will be interesting to see you two put back to back downgrades from 35Rs to T67s, will be very interesting.

+1 stock manifold is fine. no need to change for your power level or the power level your turbo is capable of for that matter.

lol when caltex roll it out across the state ill be using it for sure. at the moment theres nothing local to me which supplies it. if the car ran out of fuel its like hey lets go for a half hour drive with a jerry can lol about half an hour in only 2 directions. much further in any other the high comp is due to retire soon. DET block has been bored 20thou and CP pistons at 8.5:1 have been match bored already. crank is next (once i pay for some dental), will match some bearings to it and check the rods. put it back together shortly after and grabing a 20g to go. plan is to pick up some detchwerks 1000ccs while im at it so im ready for the good stuff when its actually available keep in mind my car is intended as a frequent driver and track car. the only ameture friendly track is over 2 hours drive away and i havent seen a caltex there let alone any eflex supply lol. but sooner or later ill join you guys on that bandwagon, yes.

E85 always makes me think aim higher lol. If only it helped response as much as it helps power, that would be the ants pants.

GKtech has that sort of an item for SR's, if NS was a half decent forum you might get some info on it there (but its not). I built a TD05H DE+T for a mate which is a little too trigger happy in the hills, so i was planning to pick up one of these to resolve the issue. So its a little less sensitive when trying to ease on the throttle. Im not sure how it will actually work out as I fear hitting the 50% point will be the next obstacle. I hope that helps.

Hang on, didn't status already post a comparo of a 2871 vs a 20g on 98 making 300kw?

Buying parts individually works out cheaper

yeah id like to know what was preferred most also