GTScotT

mine was doing it at about 1800 RPM and causing the turbo to start spooling like crazy on free revs. i cant remember what they concluded the fix to be but yeah, its in there. i think it might be low timing or something like that. what turbo is on the car ATM? has it been retuned since it was tuned for the stock turbo (if you even changed the turbo now)?

thats pretty cool! mine is ridiculously loud too, i need to change it asap lol any reason why he went 25G instead of 20G? response would have been a lot nicer with the 20G and would still net around the 260 area

thats not a bad result, its quite nice.. however that is on E70............. please retune on 98 to make it a usable reslt

i wondered where you got to. theres another thread in the FI section that went through a couple of months ago with the answers. i cant remember what it was titled but the guys car was boosting when free revving.. its the same issue. my car also did that.

thats shaping up nicely Big Fella, looking forward to the final result i read above its a 25G compressor, is that right?

actually they are kamak units, which is pretty steady manufacturer. you can even buy kamak branded ones on ebay, admittedly for a lot more lol

im guessing your expecting to find it wasnt built after all? hope it turns out to be a monster tho that turbo should be huffing over 400kw with ease

Yeap keen to see it too. That T2 5 bolt housing isnt the bad one, Ive used one of them in a TD05H 18G and so have a couple of members on NS with great results... the TD06 version is simply ported to suit, so I wonder if there will be any issues as compared to the external gate housings. the problem IW housings are those shoddy T3 3 bolt outlet things. I guess we will see monday! looking forward to it.

boost isnt a set variable mate. depends on your individual setup, your tune, your motor, etc. probably will be about the 20psi mark like jez just indicated, give or take a few psi.

have u got a mate that can help you? if not its pretty easy to make a second account and buy that way. is what i did at one stage for different reasons.

i really dont think the PT and a TD06 are intended for a similar application.... so going to one of those is like saying im thinking i want to go a completely different direction. put the TD06 on mate, it is what it is.. cant expect world class service from a person half the world away (postage is freaking expensive to send shit back anyway..)

the 240kw claim was based on TD05H not TD06, TD06 is a 20G job (you can order it in either but I recommend them that way) how is the TD06 mounted? stock manifold? internal gate? etc. Assume you have a bog stock R32 GTST, here is what you want (in a perfect world) to net a neat 260kw: Fuel pump 550cc injectors (or larger) Z32 AFM + Nistune (or other good ecu, being map sensor based will mean no need for Z32) New coilpacks or upgraded items 6boost manifold or similar quality item TD06SL2 20G 8cm 44mm external gate (or larger) 3" TBE without any restrictions 2.5" intercooler piping from turbo outlet to throttle body standard issue 600x300 intercooler or better 3" metal intake pipe minimum Adjustable cam gears start with a bog stock car and do those mods and you should have a neat 260kw. you can also use the stock manifold and hang the external gate off the rear housing, but that is yet to be done on an RB20 so i cannot vouch for its success rate. That is the exact setup I am running on my SR and am aiming for 270-280kw on 98ron. Motor will have cams though, as SR cams are not as nice as the RB ones from factory

not that comes to mind quickly. the only one off the top of my head is Mick_O, but thats a GTX3071.... thing is tho, which im sure you will agree with, E85 doesnt do as many wonders for MHI items as it does for garrett. I admit an E85 GT30 variant is always more interesting than its 98 comparison.. But the MHI range seems to be pretty efficient at running out of available flow before they need E85 to keep ping away. Thats a personal observation of mine anyway. That can be seen by comparing <300kw and >300kw 20g's.. the difference is notable but not mind blowing, keeping in mind ARTZ didnt have a full tune completed on 98 due to a slipping clutch, but the E85/added boost and no doubt lots of timing added more power in the same places. The delivery was still the same and it was still standing up as strong at the same RPM.

I did try and acquire a 6758 on a number of occasions but was never in the right place or time It should be fun times ahead though. Birth of le angry SR.

Yeap for my SR. My DET block is down at the machinist right now, im waiting for a call to tell me what size slugs to order. Having done as much reading as possible into readily available options I couldnt go past a simple TD06. The FP 73HTA wheel apparently needs a bit of energy to be turned and isnt likely to be as responsive as the old 20g item (more or less making it useless for me as I want 270-300kw). I also found a number of resources from people saying they had owned 3071 and TD06 SR's and found the TD06 to be a lot better matched. So yeah, logical deduction lead me back to a simple kando TD06. $560 later and its crackin. Sorry peeps, back to BW EFR

They are AN fittings so they press together as your tighten them, with tapered ends. I havent used any tape on any of mine and all have been fine. I am yet to see any 3071s stand up AS sharp @ 3500 RPM and make 300kw mate, so I think your ahead. In my case the 3071 is a LOT more than the <$700 kando. If you buy the CHRA and housing sepparate its about that much cheaper then the $750 listed price ($560~ actually). The Garrett also doesnt come with the V band ring or clamp. The cheapest Ive found a 3071 for is also over $1300. Realistically the Hypergear is the nearest competitor for value but I think hes still working on his consistency as far as 20psi @ 3500 and a track stable 300kw (even on E85). I think the nearest equivilent HG to your setup wont take the punishment (heat wise) yours will.

Nice! If only using one of these turbos was realistic. Waiting forever and having a questionable lifespan is very off putting. Not that Id be at all interested anymore, owning a T3 6boost now -_-

You wont feel it losing power up top mate. It will haul to redline. Only difference is how much of the peak power is made and how much spool time is lost. The TD05 is likely to be quite lively between 3 and 4k RPM with a little more meat than the TD06 from 2 - 3 aswell. The TD06 will probably be very flat from 2 - 3 and get a fairly abrupt rush of power around the 4k mark. Like I said, TD05 will probably go 240kw and TD06 will probably go 260. This is all provided you set it up right.

lol the redline will stop the crunching, and take the syncros with it (from what I have seen) its an oil with abrasive qualities which end up deglazing your synchros and in theory keep everything in tip top form. On an old gearbox though it will generally strip away more than you want to. If you want to try deglaze the synchros before you give it a try, do this: with the motor on and car stopped hold the clutch on the verge of friction point (so it wont actually let you into gear) then try to select the gear you want to fix, as you firmly attempt to select the gear you will notice the revs drop (if they dont drop your not doing it right) only do it for 2 or 3 seconds at a time and i dont recommend doing it forever in a day. I got this from a high level gearbox fab guy, this trick fixed the box in my old Evo 4 to perfection.

TD05H 25G is not something you should go for. The 25G wheel can flow upward of 500HP, the TD05H wheel is stretched at best to be nearing 400HP. Even a TD05H 20G is a touch of a mismatch, and can often run into surge issues. FYI the different between an 18G and a 20G is the inducer size. Sort of like comparing a 3076R in 52 trim and 56 trim. Going the smaller will trade a little bit of top end for some spool. In this case both wheels have a 68mm OD but the 18G is a better overall match to the TD05H. The best way to get a grasp of whats a good combo or not is what Trust have developed and sold as their own kits. In this case either pick the TD05H 18G or the TD06SL2 20G...... One for better low end and midrange, the other for higher end power and midrange. 240 and 260kw respectively.

Solid advice given above. Hypergear is the only true reliable and easy budget option IMHO. Kando Dynamic are a good thing also, but they do entail a lot more effort and custom parts which can end up more expensive (despite the lower initial outlay).

lol @ knocking on rattles door, that was a good line. wish sydney would hurry up and roll out the E85 too

ill re phrase that for you, the TD05 can bolt up to the stock manifold (with a small spacer) they are the same flange type (T3 open). the existing dump will be useless regardless of what Kando option you decide on... you will need to make a new dump and if you want the best results you will also want to use an external gate. if you are thinking you want to keep things as bolt on as possible, you should really be looking at the hypergear thread. he also gets excellent results from his turbo, and picking one of these over his is usually only an interest factor. you could get out of it a lot cheaper if you just stick to hypergear. maybe consider sending your stock turbo to him and having it rebuilt to suit the exact power you want.

hey urtwhistle, FWIW my 6boost has the gate just inches off the collector and points maybe 2 or 3 degrees northward (i suspect they do that to promote flow going towards the gate). yours is both long and looks like it doesnt point up at all, just straight down. id say work on that, but i dont feel the comp 40 will hold you back at this stage

freaking sweet result man. would love to see you and Micko line em up. would be epic.