GTScotT

The one I posted is the exact same turbo, except it has a 3" inlet and Ive posted the CHRA and housing separate (just because they didnt have a 3" one listed in one piece). Realistically it doesnt matter if u get the 3" or the 2.4"...... But if u go the 2.4" ull be able to use the stock intake pipe for teh epic stealth just need to make a heatshield to cover the gate. Re your 6boost idea... a twin scroll 6boost is epic........... WHEN USED WITH A TWIN SCROLL TURBO lol. The kando range are not twin scroll, so it will do you no justice. if you want to get a twin scroll and highmount the turbo that is also a good idea, but adds another 1200+ of expense when you could get a similar result from the stock manifold and be very stealth. Imagine ripping people at the drags and looking like your running something pretty ordinary, dickkk scchhhhwwwiing. If I had an RB20 powered car I would probably do the exact setup we are talking about. Stock manifolds, TD05H 18G with a gate off the housing. Stealthed up and stock position. Like I said 230-240kw and it would be pretty responsive/solid. Ive recently done a TD05H 18G SR20DE and that is a weapon. Faster than a 260rwkw 3076R SR20DET (both S13s).

Now that is interesting............................. Mostly disappointed in the EFR, but surprised at the like for like comparison.

For a solid 240kw I would say this should hit the spot: http://www.ebay.com....=item4165d4ffdc plus http://www.ebay.com....=item416678841f Get a gate plumbed off the rear housing and hang it off the stock manifold. Beauty!

Robert thats not really how it works. Please look up the member Roy and study his setup. For a long time he had a staple TD06 20G 8cm highmount RB20, hes now done a bit more like E85 and a plazmaman plenum and has hit the magic 300 mark. First pick your power goals and then pick your turbo to suit. Kando now give the option of T3 external gate TD05H's which I think would be a good thing on the RB20.

Sweet man, thanks! Sounds creamy

I'm thinking of going the oil only 20g, mirror copy of the trust item. Can anyone give me a reasonable against argument to make me buy the water and oil item? As ive now got a 6boost to hang the thing off, i just want less clutter and less bolts that need to be turned over and over when removing/refitting the thing and obviously less cost in getting 4AN hoses in the right length for the water. Can anyone sway me as to why I shouldnt get the oil only item? NB all the T67s we see are oil only, while the usual 20g items are oil and water. FYI kando also make their oil only CHRA with a smaller hub centre on the wheel and advertise it as increased flow. Does anyone want to say NAO to that? I fear larger surface area may mean slower spool. My intention is widest powerband and 270-300kw.

Ive only had a quick gander here, but i get the feeling the issue is more pressure in the exhaust than there is the intake. youve hung the gate off the housing so it cant possibly be that, its more likely to be the flow character of the accumulation of parts. be it myself, id run a few tests looking for leaks or restrictions but then id probably tap a hole into the exhaust somewhere (probably the spacer plate between the turbo and manifold) then see what sort of pressure ur getting out of there. I bet theres more pressure pre turbine than there is in the intake by a long shot. if thats what id found, id be ordering a highmount with no gate port and modding the gate pipe angle off that rear housing.

From the looks of it they are only really boasting about their bearing cartridge. All the wheel sizes look rather familiar with the typical garret items, and they also have a model which specifially runs borg warner compressors. It has a very hypergear feel to it, reinventing the wheel... but on a generic level with aerospace quality. I would be more inclined to pick up an FP30 and push more boost dude

Just need 10 grand before I fit my $800 turbo. Just kidding mate haha, should be a weapon! Maybe avoid the anti surge... Dori34 proved it wasnt so effective.

Maybe one of us should start an E-flex petition thread... Maybe I will PM a mod about it... Seems like a good idea.

This will only fit a 35R sized turbine, you will need a GT30 housing mate.

Hey all, Have a .63 rear housing suit a 35R. Came with a setup I bought recently and am not going to use it. Is HPC coated in a chrome silver finish. HHas a bung hole for an EGT probe. Can put a bolt in it if you dont plan to run an EGT sensor. Is a T3 in V band out Garrett item. $250 delivered ($622 when new from GCG) Cheers,

Id like to know if Simons has cracks on the turbine. Twice as curious to see if the 20g I buy comes with complimentary cracks lol. Logic says no, because the td06 and t67 are a different shaft and therefore cast (shaft and wheel are one item). Viva la cheap Chinese rubbish.

Sorry if I came across wrong. That 3" TD07 housing is a truck one im pretty sure. I was just trying to make a point that you dont have the same 3" housing dori tried. Dori's one was the standard .60 trust style 3" thingy that has had surge holes drilled into it. Yours is an actual surge ported housing (not a modified one). Most trucks use surge ported housings, and its not a typical trust housing which is what makes me confident its off a truck. All in all im sure yours will work mate, no need to worry at this stage.

Its a proper TD07S 3" anti surge housing ARTZ... specifically designed for a 25G wheel, off a big truck of some sort. Im pretty confident it will work well.

im heaps keen to see how yours goes man, it should be epic. will be adding your results to my mental database of future setups I want to run

Because you and I are not the only two reading/going to read this thread. Sometimes you need to state the obvious so that people dont assume that a 3076R has HEAPS more left in it at 17psi, coz it simply might not. I know you are the turbo overlord, that's why I theorize with you whenever possible and ask you first before I go out on a limb with a whacky idea. Stop thinking im condescending you when im not.

I dont necessarily believe that it would make more power, but it should in theory. The fact is you could max the turbo at the same power level but at two different boost thresholds on two different motors. That being said its not out of the question that the unit is out of flow at 17psi, but logic suggests it has more in it (17 is a pretty low number on an RB25). If it were an RB30 for example I wouldnt be surprised if it was hitting the power target with no more available flow at that low a PR. All that being said I'd love to see the whick turned up, for science of course.

His comparison overlay was his low boost run why not overlay your high boost run simon? dont want to be unfair lol i wonder how the 3076 would go with more boost also, hmm.

LOVE the car and LOVE the skills mate Keep it up!

you should be fine bro, that housing is an actual TD07 MHI spec item the housing Jez and Dori are having issues with is a 'drilled' TD06 3" cover. The Trust style one that never came with drill holes in it normally lol its a shame it didnt work though

lol nws, atleast you can cop the flack. Page 185 has Simons most recent result, with a direct comparison T67 vs 3076R.. the only difference being the ethanol content of their fuel (but I doubt you need more than the Jew mix simon runs). You asked your question 2 pages later, within the quoted 20

FFS its on page 1 lol

To anyone whos interested... Have decided I will go a 20G again, after doing some homework on other options available. May later upgrade the compressor to a 68HTA item. After some research it appears 3071s are a favoured item on the SR, but there are a few people out there who say they have done both and prefer the 20G. One particular person saying hes done 28RS, 3071R and 20G and believes the 20G to be a 'you wont look back' option. I know the 3076 is a bit of a late spooler without a very careful or twin scroll setup and found out the FP 73 HTA wheel wont blow my mind in terms of response, and in fact will probably not outspool the 20G. Considering the 20G is capable of the power I want I think I am fairly well sold already. ARTZ if you want to flog yours let me know, we can work something out!

Thats a nice results Rolls, something I would want in a lightweight RB powered car. Maybe a RB S13 or similar, which I might recommend to a mate who has exactly that. Personally I would say something more aggressive would be better in an R33 and up, for the weight/pull factor.