GTScotT

its always good to show photos of whats out there. I just picked up a 6boost for mine, but everyones seen those lol

man if they are anything like the 6b in terms of quality i definitely rekon go for it. on E85 ull be talking 350kw for sure, thats freaking massive man. DO IT. only problem is ill be missing out on the spare install kit EDIT: on second thought buying the CHRA and housing sepparate is actualy HEAPS CHEAP. Under 550 for a brand new turbo, and I already have the oil lines and shit.

thanks for that site scotty, i might get a set of EV14s for my SR. cheap as chips!

Lol that's true TBH. Dave why don't I send you a T67 chra and you send me your 20g and a 8cm housing

lol thats a pretty sick VK, i want to know whats in that 101 S14 lol

im fairly certain you can crack 300 on an 8cm running E85. whats your mates one like on the road? is it flat then gets a big hit when boost comes in or is it fairly meaty and fast before it hits full boost? Trying not to make the wrong decision on an SR is hard. Theres a lot more leeway to be had from an extra 500cc which you just cant budget for on the SR, got to get it right. So far the 3071s are probably the most tried and proven for an awesome 280ish on 98. If they werent so damn expensive id just do that,but when your looking at a few hundred difference to splash out and buy an FP30 im thinking why not. Also going to look at one of those 5557s

thanks for the link, gives me even more confidence to see someone with a no expense car using that exact size turbo.

man ive been looking on that POS website all night and i cant find a single f**king result. i swear I hate NS

lol me show off? no never. nah DE is still in the car, hoping to sell to a p plater for a pretty price. so you still think 10cm?

just some pics of me stripping my spare DET lol, got one of me holding the head in one hand and the block in another. check it out. Jez the only JD thats crazy is me, and im all booked out im sorry

Doing a quick rebuild on my DET. Luckily the person I sold it to determined it was to far for for his looking and brought it back. Basic built etc. Haven't you seen FB?

Lol i don't intend to run a high comp motor much longer, so knowing 8cm works well on an SR means I'd rather chase the response Status can feel free to comment now lol Other options are 3071, 3040 and FP3073 in no particular order. FP is 2 grand worth, the others id aim to buy used under a grand or kando it

Just picked up a 6boober for my SR 8cm 20G bang for buck, or 2k on an FP30? Hard choice to make! Anyone with SR 8cm 20G experience please let me know what it was like!

Amazing! Love your work Simon, good stuff!

Yeap, could be a severe case of the above mentioned issue. Also, put a carbon gauge on the radiator to see if combustion material is getting in the water.

Try to get a bore camera down there when the piston is at BDC. I rekon there could be a crack in there somewhere

TL:DR strikes again

my original theory when i heard about this is that a valve is burnt and still seats ok in its place. dont forget that while the motor is running the valves can rotate, just like the rings can. so my theory goes; the valve seats OK in one spot, but rotates a little and jams open. could definitely be related to a LITTLE bit of debris being ingested AND revving to redline the moment its started would quite easily do some damage.

How does the plenum bolt to the runners? Just want to try understand how they did it. Pretty sure some manifold shrapnel has gotten into it and stuffed a valve on cyl 1.

Thats a common thing to me, lots of cases i know where a motor has been dormant for a while and then restarted without fresh oil and its given way. I think the old oil dries up and causes things to seize (like lifters) or oil starve to things like rod bearings. I havent heard the vid yet as im at work, thus cant comment on that im sorry.

probably huddled in a corner realising they poorly tooled that bolt and cost you a motor. I can picture a moron with a half inch ratchet and a short socket trying to hurriedly do up that bolt with the big ratchet reefing against the runner. shit shit you guys... fire mizzilez..

is there a close up of how its broken?

If the manifold was shattered and then turned on and revved to redline, debris could be right through the thing and could definitely cause the issues your having right now. Sounds like a motor out and head off affair. Its not going to be an externally diagnosed issue IMHO.

IE could it have created debris that the motor could have ingested on its maiden limiter bash?

You can get a water cooler variant, it will be badged as a TD06SL2 25G as long as it has the 4" cover and the T3 10cm V band rear it will be the same item with a different CHRA. However, the water cooled version has the normal TD06 shaft (thinner) and the oil cooled T67 version uses a TD07 shaft (thicker and stronger) There doesnt seem to be a disadvantage to the T67 mang, but whats wrong with your HG?