GTScotT

LOL @ kicked off for following direction. Thats got to suck! lmao I told mick to go high mount and a FP 86 HTA, as he said he wanted to test the boundaries of the stock motor lol

agreed yeah. well give it another go with the 9.5:1 kando, but im gonna build the lower comp motor for my s14. I do have the WMI kit at home but im wanting to go an FP30. Already sold the disco so its just T28 powered for the minute. Might bring that for a retune if i get bored hehehe

lesson learnt, we were starting at a bar. so in theory if we started at 7psi and went for a mega aggressive tune, then fine tuned to compensate for boost as it increased.... we COULD have got there? on the disco, it ended up with 210kw (regardless of .64 or .86) but extremely laggy. I had civics motoring away from me out of corners at wakefield.

Also, what's the go with timing when tuning these things? Coz when we started at zero its knocking its guts out before you hit 3 degrees. What's going to happen if you magically start at base timing (IE 15) and go from there? For science, obviously.

The man has spoken, rebuild it is!

Thanks for the pointers guys. Weird thing is though, the first setup I went to tune with was a GT28RS with a .86 rear... Jez will confirm that after we swapped out the rear housing for a .64 it made an identical amount of power (tune needed to be backed off though). You guys are tempting me to try harder with the DE+T but im realistically worried its just going to be another bout of CRAP. Am currently in the process of getting my old DET checked so i can buy some pistons for it I decided against it as my setup has proven too unreliable at the moment, i wouldnt want it to be useless without the WMI. if i could get it to a point where WMI was an added bonus for big power but without was still awesome i definitely would.

Bullshit. Araldite the head on and you dont need a HG. Nascar does. Because Nascar.

I kept saying the tabs will bolt the vband part of the CHRA into the housing! lol tisk tisk tisk why didnt you at least try man lol... still in the plastic and just trying to eye how it fits. you disappoint me good sir. the vband ring in the packet is for the dump maybe thats why your confused lol is that due to the fact the 20g pumps hotter air than the 25g? coz simon and others seem to fair perfectly fine with the T67 25g...... despite having the same turbine wheel

Are you thinking of doing a T4 divided run on SR20? I would be keen

looks like residue from pink coolant. you said the thermostat jacket has the same colour in it?

Rekon something bigger will work well? Ive done T28 (works good on 9.5:1), 28RS disco, TD05H 18G. The Disco was very fail, I suspect due to cams, the 18G has gone over 200kw but pings with any more than 15 pounds. My 10:1 motor has been shit from word go, all other 9.5 motors Ive done have at least always been fast. Im currently rebuilding my old DET to make way for an FP30, unless you rekon the 10:1 motor will take to the FP30 as is ? lol, id try it if there was merit (want to stay 98 though).

Someone sponsor me and Jez to put some ethanol in my SR. My current SR is 10:1 and very det prone. I wouldnt mind letting jez see if the pineapple juice makes it a monster, would be good for everyone to see. For science

Hey Stao, here is a link of an FP product to give you an idea re the above: http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTDSMFP86HTA&Category_Code=Turbo-FP

Roy has shown the stock cams are good, lots of sporadic posts about how performance was lost in some cases. Stock cams and a bit of a dial to suit your application. TD06 20G 8cm and its a good little package.

Thats sick man! I like that TD07 front cover, Im of the opinion a larger front cover can be a really good thing on a turbo that size/spec. Looking forward to your results

With warranty? Wheres your shop, I want this 25k 500kw motor

R u sure its smaller man? Im pretty sure the area across the firewall is the same but theres more room between the strut towers (i could be wrong). Its definitely shorter though. Imagine rocking up to ANY event with a compound turbo setup, LOL

Ive found that some of my +T setups have been sensitive to turbo choice. IE with an SR+T I found I could max a T28 on 9.5:1 and smash the performance of the equivilent DET 8.5:1, however moving to a TD05H 18G saw it was a lot harder to get the very most out of it. In all cases ive experienced the cars have a lot more midrange with the added 1:1 I did however set sail to fail on my 10:1 setup, and am hoping to fix that soon.

Be careful of hotspots with comp that high. Piston shape and combustion chamber will probably be crucial. This is what im working on to make my 10:1 SR cop BOOST.

This is a hard one to describe, but im confident its the right housing. if you think about it, just coz the CHRA can be v banded, it doesnt mean you cant machine a bolt on housing to press up to the CHRA and work. im pretty sure the kando CHRA's are direct copies of the MHI items, and many of the housings are direct copies of the MHI housings also. Yet these T3 10cm housings are definitely custom, and im sure it is them that is different to a normal housing and are machined to have the v band chra slot in and then have a bolt on piece press it in. Simple logic to me!

I realised after I posted that I left myself somewhat vulnerable there lol Good pick up.

look i dont go that way jez, but any customer with a big head is only going to hurt on the way in. thats what i tell my girlfriend anyway.

jez hates anything in large quantities. boost, timing, power, you name it. except cock. he loves cock.

Actually thats a smart idea, report the matter to ebay if he doesnt fix it.

Can I please get a reply to this?