GTScotT

What is a T66? AFAIK that term can reference a few different turbos.

its a bit rough to say stock power when your making a solid near 240kw

It can be done. You wont have VCT control and will need something external for that. Im fairly sure there are good write ups on this on www.paulr33.com

Get a HTA GT3586 from forced performance. Results look like the HTA stuff is better than the GTX. Better behaved in terms of spool and power, the GTX will want more boost to do its thing whereas the HTA shines most with lots of boost but still outperforms its predecessor for the same PR. There is some valuable info in the 'budget 370kw RB26' thread in the general FI section. From my experiences with SR's 9.5:1 seems to be the upper limit of FI high comp when wanting to extract the most and stay on 98. I would stick to a CR around the 9:1 mark if possible.

Stao that E-turbo is only on your DET motor, it will probably work better on a REAL NA motor. You should ask a customer to test it. With that sort of flow it is possible that it wont need any tuning. That G2.5 is also a nice looking unit. I would be happy with one of those

Bugs at 200kph make quite the mess. There are times the spirited enthusiast will need those wipers to continue lol Different strokes for different folks.

hey hey hey now, those who voted labour are looking back laughing that we actually made it through the GFC quite OK. we might have done better if we were under liberal, but thats anyones guess. Not to get in to politics anyway, just dont give him that much credit. And Kando Billet heavier? Allow me to introduce Sir ebay himself: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Compressor-Wheel-Billet-7075-Kinugawa-Garrett-GT3076-GT3037-57-76mm-BB-/280877255518?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416596cb5e 30% lighter than genuine cast wheel they said Offer extra 30% airflow than stock cast wheel they said

Got a snow s2 if u are looking, am needing to free up some cash atm. Could save you a neat a mount off new. Just a short drive over to revesby

OK well I don't know anything about the anti surge housing, so I no longer have any help for you. GL champ.

Mate the difference between a TD06SL2 and a T67 (in terms of performance) is only the difference in the comp cover. That seriously wont effect spool like what you are imagining, its more so going to effect how much flow the compressor can give at what pressure ratio. And as stated the larger housing is going to need less pressure to flow the same amount. The spool difference is likely to be negligable. Trying to fit it on the standard lowmount though, now your talking a different can of beans... And I suggest you consider a hypergear instead. Be it myself, I would rather a standard issue hypergear G3 than I would a T67 on a low mount. If you were to put a highmount into it I would then say Go the T67.

The general consensus here is to get the T67 instead. The specs of the wheels are the same, but the T67 uses a TD07 shaft which is thicker and stronger. The T67 also has a .70 AR comp housing, which will effectively need less boost for the same levels of flow, and is an oil only turbo which makes it a bit neater to set up in the bay. Go the T67 10cm!

STATUS brings the big guns That's what weve been waiting to see, the WMI is the answer for people without E85 as an option. Woo

Lith I did say the difference wouldnt be night and day, i dont doubt that the 3037 would be the better unit spool wise but for the price difference can you really complain? Also re your last post, ive always said similar and even Stao has been saying the same about his highflow vs SS1PU. He notes that while they might plot the same on the dyno (at a given boost level) the SS1PU shines in its on road delivery. Like Ive always said power is one thing but delivery is king. This reminds me that you need to reply to my PM you slack ass, I wont be on MSN for a while as im running a pretty demanding regime at the minute. Simon, so your saying that a poncammed 3037 (3076R) is plotting 300rpm better than your uncammed T67? Thats pretty awesome. Im keen to see the result once yours is cammed up (not to take away from my delivery is king comment LOL). Yet I would like to see a 3037 run a bloody 11.03

It will be hard to keep your package under 2k unless you look at a kando and that. I doubt the difference between a T67 and a 3076 is going to be night and day. I would seriously consider the package I mentioned if you really want to keep costs that low. Its a nice bit of kit. No kidding. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347726-kando-dynamics-turbo/

Lol budget option: NZ steampipe manifold < 400 Kando T67 w/billet wheel <1000 (comes with the bloody lines, v band ring and gaskets) Tial 44 You should get *close* to the marker and have spent less than the outlay of a fancy turbo or manifold alone lol. Is that as budget as your thinking?

And you expect the response to be anything short of: 'The BW EFR is the bee's knee's, buy this now.' ? I doubt a company as commercial as FR will recommend a product they don't back. On the same token I'm sure if you email FP they are going to recommend you the HTA LOL.

Cracked turbine wheel you mean. Hes sending it back to Kando for repair and billet upgrade, Kando agreed to fix it for the cost of the comp wheel alone if he sent it back.

LOL a lot of people have been there and done that, DW about it. Nobody would teach me manual when I was first getting my license. I ended up taking out my brothers brand new impreza and thrashing it in order to get my bearings. Have been fine ever since, or so I tell myself.

Im sure its to do with the actuator guys, not the turbo itself. Smile.

The R33 is an awesome base. Its cheap and fun to make into a really fast car. Silvias are good fun also, and are cheap to make into a quick car, but once the major power bug bites you will be limited. Go the R33 It wont let you down.

Thats a good price Kasko, you did well. LOL @ Dave, fail launch like a boss.

there are plenty of successful highflows running 15psi or less mate, cmon........

Be it myself Id probably take up the offer on the HG and adaptronic, as it takes away another expense (AFM) as stated and one less thing to compensate for when making intake pipes and all that crap. Id personally like to own an R33 which had a HG H/F, adaptronic, TBE, pump, fmic. Id leave the stock injectors in there and run it at the quoted 15psi. Should go really well.

Dude give it up... His car is fixed now, it turned out fine. Its tuned to its appropriate best and he's learnt from his mistakes. Continuing on with crap like that is just making yourself look like a fool. Please stop.

Thanks GTSBoy, thats some conclusive information right there. Obviously we wouldnt define that as a change in dynamic compression but it obviously has a similar effect to an increase in dynamic compression. Pushing the piston down as it expands (like increased DCR would). Hard to define, but this is what I was on about the first time I said it. Its interesting to read that it doesnt expand during compression stroke, as I thought it did. This is a pretty valuable thread.