GTScotT

As much as I like your setup Simon, the HTA3076 is far from a bastardised version lol. Unless your calling the GTX a POS of sorts. I think FP put a lot of effort into their compressors. Its a nice unit man, you should check it out. Also, 370 on an E85 3076 isnt unheard of either.

Listen to Roy. Your mechanic would make the rebuild sound like the best option, so you dont buy another supposed dud motor etc etc. But remember they also chuck some profit on every item and make a motza out of your rebuild. 6k is probably 4k in your own garage. Get a wrecker motor like Roy said, spend 2k on buying it, installing it and changing the essentials like belts and hoses. Then spend the other 4k of your original 6k budget on epic upgrades, like a nice turbo etc. Be smart about it, dont just throw money at people willing to take it from you. The people on this forum are giving you solid advice purely for your benefit. No cash exchange. Please take it.

Had to back up my hulk anger reference lol

+1 vote for 3076HTA I'm salivating for one myself

And if you didnt catch it from someone else, where would you catch it from Birds? lol Or are you just always annoyed when you get sick? *cough* Avengers *cough* Dr Banner is ALWAYS ANGRY

Yet the Methanol is a high det resistant combustible. So its adding RON to the fuel, its a different effect. Remember that it doesnt matter how hot the burn is, in fact I think it is the hotter the better. So the Methanol cools the charge on delivery, and everything around it, and then makes for a better burning fuel which allows for running more timing and making the most of the potential energy.

Then hurry up and buy my kit! And good rant there Mafia, I appreciate what your saying. Need to get that 10k machine Jez is talking about lol

No worries, Ill buy the kit then you get out the cordless and drill a hole in my SR Agreed Trent, all signs point to epic. Its an awesome bit of kit to have.

My theory as follows (with zero intention to condescend or offend and I well and truly recognize I am no particle engineer): Water takes up less volume than its steam counterpart. Steam is the byproduct of water exchanging for heat. So the water soaks up heat, and surpresses detonation, but converts into steam which occupies more volume than its original form and thus incurs an increase in pressure (being a sealed chamber). So while you might be saying your surpressing heat which is in turn pressure, the result is still pressure without the heat. The reality here is that we cant run a pressure gauge into the cylinder while its running, so we will never know whos right or wrong. But the 2 variables are that there is either more or less pressure in the cylinder after the process. Perhaps the heat the water takes away has a higher potential for pressure than the resultant steam does, or perhaps the opposite. Who knows. Dismissing an increase in pressure simply because an overdose of water acts as a power suppressant is like dismissing the fact water douses fire. What I do know is that WI is rather effective lol now lets be friends and hoon on forever.

+1 vote for waste of time When you need something better than the stock manifold you should just get a highmount.

For an internally gated turbo you would definitely get a better result from a Hypergear For your power goal of 230-250 I recommend you get a Hypergear highflow, it is a simple rebuild/respec of the standard turbo that will get you the results your after. That being said, it will also bolt straight back on where you took it off (stao will provide you with the extra bits needed to make it direct fit). Its also cheap, only something like $960 delivered and ready to bolt on.

Considering youve got a SS1 not the SS1PU i think thats a really good result. It comes on really well and had a good usable powerband. I cant see it falling off up top at all. Take this from a Hypergear follower: that turbo is doing exactly what its meant to do. You should be very happy with that result, good work.

$10 on FP. He's even got me believing of late.

I think I read status saying to use a manual clutch and fly with the auto box to increase durability. You only need to use the clutch to take off. If you want a tough 5 speed box you should look at the R154 (5 speed, under 2k) or V160 (6 speed and very expensive) boxes. Theres a company called dellow engineering who can make a bell to suit that box from anything. The R154 specifically is really short and can be fitted with a remote shifter, so you can fit it in just about anything. It is pretty fat tho, but It cant honestly shadow the auto... Or atleast I hope. They can hold the power, no worries. Like I said also easy to work with coz of how short it is and the remote shifter. Cant comment beyond a guesstimate on the price of a clutch, I dare say the better part of a grand as a starting point.

Ahh I c. I think there is a way to lock them into gear, like you can lock the torque converter. I'm no expert though, and that does provide some decent insight either way. Bloody auto's! lol.

61mm 9 blade thing? That's interesting. I wonder if Stao would be willing to discuss. I always expected more blades will pick up quicker from less gas flow.

Scotty what rev are you at when you hit 200kph? IE when the dyno run ends? The graph shows boost threshold as between 130 and 150kph. So if you were at 6000rpm @ 200kph, your boost threshold is after 4000rpm. If you were revving it harder, your threshold is also higher.. Say it was revving to 7500, your talking about a minimum of 5500rpm for full boost (on that graph). Is that a misrepresentation of the dyno or is it not as responsive as I had imagined? Mick's is on a lot sooner I believe.

Also, here is a genuine trust turbo with one of those horrible housings. What were they thinking.... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Trust-Greddy-Turbo-TD06-20G-/230785422581?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35bbe214f5

So, has anyone else noticed the emergence of KAMAK on ebay, other than our beloved Kando Dynamic range? There's an AUS distributor selling them for about 3x the price of what Eiji does. He advertises they are balanced to 100,000 rpm but Eiji states 150,000 - both on a VSR machine. One thing that is weird is the KAMAK branded items are running some sort of weird 9 blade turbine wheel and are boasting improved response and top end flow. I'm not sure if I'm sold here..... Anyone want to share an opinion? Check it out here: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Turbo-HIGH-END-TD06SL2-20GTX-AR-8-Nissan-Silvia-S13-S14-200SX-240SX-/140744047319?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c4ffbad7

raZ1911, what were the issues u were having? Just curious, looks promising tho!

Trollololo?

Im sure a really well designed compressor with appropriate gearing could start boosting at a decent RPM and not go into surge or start blowing hot air by redline. The idea is to compress compressed air anyway, so as long as the compressor doesnt surge or blow hot it just needs to keep compressing what the turbo is giving once its out of its efficiency range. So it should be fairly doable in my mind. its more or less like this: intake - big turbo inlet, big turbo outlet - supercharger inlet, supercharger outlet to intercooler and so on. The idea is to help the big turbo spin up sooner. The main restriction in a compound setup is the small housing on the small turbo, but thats a null point in this case. Should be fun if Stao takes it on board.

Belt drive... Compound turbo....

So is the Kando I'm comparing it to Actually, your on a good track here...... Stao, why dont you produce a belt driven suppercharger and setup a twin charge system? If you made an affordable kit you might actually do really well from it. I think what your doing now is on a similar sort of track, you just need the gearing. Hey if it worked and was a bolt on to my motor (im SR but hello RB25 SAU) I would definitely buy it and run it with a much larger turbo. Hell, you could supply both.