GTScotT

I believe the primary intention is to use it with a 600+ HP turbo and feel like it has no lag. Like a cheaper less complex compound system. And yes that SS3EG looks epic! The price is great too!

very close to it. ill blame my tuner lol OP can change his coolant temp sensor

ive actually had this happen to me intermittently, on my SR. its happened when i free rev the motor, it will start to rev then the revs will stop and the turbo will start to work EXTRA hard like its spooling its ass off. id only be 'touching' the throttle from under the bonnet, and its making out like its in 4th gear up a hill... Its only done it a few times so im honestly yet to work it out.... If anyone has input i also want to know? Im thinking its a restriction somewhere, like a blocked/collapsing exhaust OR something in my cooler. But the exhaust is pretty much a straight pipe, so i doubt that one. LE WEIRD,

Im fairly sure the grub screw reduces the effective waste gate size by blocking some of its flow path Stao should jump in right about now lol

I wonder if the H 12 blade would have better response than the 11 blade item.. Equally I wonder what wheels FP use in their turbos. why cant we just know these things

Ah ok, if its his own vehicle thats fine. I have known mechanics to get slammed as bad as losing their blueslip license after people complain their mech did the work and didnt inform them of the legalities. I just hope that sort of thing doesnt happen here, we all know the consequences of running that sort of car on the road. Its the individuals choice/risk.

Its pretty disgusting to find out you have been getting fined by the EPA Stao. As a manufacturer you are able to produce any item without risk of being pinged by the EPA, you just need to pre-warn your customers that the external gate is not road legal and should be used for road use only. What happens though is cry baby customers get done by the EPA and cry that they bought the turbo like that from you. That's weak and low. Man up to your choices people.

Well done PJ, thats an enormous effort!

Birds you should get some custom pipes done to look like the stock ones but have a few less bends (stainless and painted black)

lol had to be said

definitely get a manifold. the RB20 needs all the help it can get and the stock turbo gate mod isnt a perfect world sort of mod. A manifold like this brings you closer to an all round good setup

So its still shit lol

If you were to put that on a petrol motor you would be in the lower 100kw bracket (<150) and laggier than a more appropriately sized turbo of the same power level. You can tell its diesel by having a tiny front housing but a fairly chunky rear housing. Diesels usually run a higher PR which is why they put a small comp housing on it, but need the larger rear housing for flow as they are usually a larger cube motor. What did you get it off? Or did you find it like that? With the price and quality of taiwanese turbos these days its really not worth your time.

Looks like something off a diesel 4WD, rubbish.

Yeah its not a real definite rule of any sort, just a reasonable way to calculate injector size. IE if i was going to aim for 500whp I would probably run a 800cc injector in the RB25, giving me ability to run the injectors at no more than 80% duty cycle and hit the target. (98 ron example here) Thats all it is mate, a rule of thumb to help with picking the right injector size.

I already posted that in one of your many BMW threads.....................

Nah that is right mate.. Remember you have 50% more injector on an RB simply because there are 6 of them, which is essentially 50% more flow capacity. Total fuel and total boost equals a power figure, because you simply have more fuel you can simply add more air and therefore make more power with the same size injector. Remember also that pressure ratio changes the motors effective efficiency. IE a 2 litre motor run at 2 bar of boost is as efficient (size wise) as a 4 litre motor run on 1 bar. Every bar of pressure added beyond atmospheric effectively doubles the motors size. Or such is the science behind it. FWIW I've also had a Toshi tuned car in the family, it went very well.

I dont fully understand anything Toshi says, anything he says appears in text boxes and my eyes get an error saying 'language not installed'. FWIW though, I trully believe theres more to tuning then adding timing and pulling fuel. I know his theory is that the stock injectors are sensitive to pressure, getting choppy above 15psi, so i would say increasing rail pressure is also a shitty idea if hes right. The combo of stock FPR and stock injectors run at 15psi seem to be Toshi's 'sweet spot' for tuning. Forgive me for thinking aloud here, but injector spray pattern would have a lot to do with the burn and in turn would change how effective the burn is. By 'rule of thumb' 370cc is 370hp on an RB25 = 277kw. With some deduction the ability to hit 260kw on a 'happier' dyno is definitely there. Or we could just keep screwing boost into things coz thats all that makes power. T25 on 40psi runs 10s (till destruction).

Put a twin scroll 3788R on it instead! I dont usually go for performance in limited quantities. Id prefer to know I can hoon interstate if I wanted to LOL Le mans 24hr of Hoon

IMHO You can definitely see that the 8cm is narrower, i think OP (of this issue) will be able to work it out from there Maybe if someone can take pics of a 10cm if its not on already?

I have a mate with -10s on his R and it shuffles its brains out. He refers to is as Darth Vader, pretty funny. Surprisingly though, he notes that in the build stages he once had it tuned somewhere different to where it was tuned now and there was NO shuffle. He rekons the car was a lot quicker also but the dyno read lower. I think the fast/shuffle-less tune was about the 380kw mark where as Darth Vader is making the 400 mark. That would go to say the tune has a lot to do with it, but thats about all the value I can really add Intake piping on that car is all stock bar a big drag cooler.

Make ur mate aim for 700 horse. Thats what id like LOL

It will be big enough IMHO, L2 10cm is good on a RB25 and id be willing to try it on a dirty 30. I can only imagine ur H 12cm will be pretty cool and have bucketloads of power in its band. GL with it mate, keen to see the results.

Now were talking Jez. Show me what the SR can do, I have the power bug ATM

What turbo is that mate? Looks like a truck spec heart breaker, u sure you want to use that?