GTScotT

fnt is staos own recipe, google will, not tell you the mans ideas a typical turbine housing has a single nozzle where the gas ends its path and meets the wheel, stao machines the housing to have 3 nozzles so that the turbine gets 3 channels of precise gas flow and helps it pickup speed faster

I contest both points also. 1. He could be running a different size tyre which could easily make for a 200rpm variance. If the man knows his car best then the man knows his car best. I wouldnt want to tell a full time owner of a vehicle what speed/gear/rpm should be, hes the one who should know best. 2. Im sure if there was a better 250kw turbo out there we would all be salavating for it and talking about it non stop, instead of pursuing the HG thread daily and pouring hopes and dreams into Kando combinations. I still believe the GTRS is a special item, but short of paying through the nose or picking one of the other 2 mentioned items I dont know what else there is to mention? We havent really seen much else yet. Im sure once BW EFR's become readily available and we strap a T3 item to an RB the game MIGHT change. Until then, viva la HG/Kando and their recent unholy alliance. Anyway, haters gonna hate

That is fair enough and honestly not that surprising, but a little inconclusive in terms of the issue I raised. You are running an autronic eflex setup as mentioned so the ECU is obviously compensating for the difference. As stated prior I honestly dont have an issue with that and would happily run it myself (its just an expensive outlay when there are only 2 servos near me that sell the stuff, and both are 20k from home). What I really want to clarify is the untuned and uncompensated difference between E70 and E85. I would like to see the result of a car tuned for E85 and then switched to E70, without compensation to the tune. IE tune a car with a Nistune to E85 and then fill it up with E70 and see what happens. The reason I think stating only a 4kw difference is inconclusive is because Im not concerned about the potential of the fuel vs the motor. As I am confident you can extract more than what most setups can give on E70 making E85 redundant.. But that doesnt indicate anything to the mixtures and the resultant safety margin. If you could comment on that scenario that would be great.

That would work but I think its inferior to the way ARTZ has his done. His is the creme de la creme of factory position EWG IMHO

Once we have closure on final results for the 20G I am going to approach a few members and do a 'bang for buck as at 2012' thread and try get it stickied. That way we can clearly see the outcome of all the available options and a rough price guide for people to follow. I think its necessary.

Mate.... Its 2k for a Kando fully set up, its 1800 for a garret with no dumps/lines/pipes ETC. In fact its over 2k for a 3076R with an IWG and goodluck making a 5 bolt dump for the same price as your V band job when the kando COMES WITH the bloody V band ring. Dude thats $1200 for an external gate version, so simply add $500 to the kando equation (700+500=1200)... Meaning all things equal the 3076R costs another $500 on top. Check what I said above about the IWG version, it is even more expensive again. EDIT: plus the lines like Simon said. BUT Kando do the lines for about 150 from memory. (LOL Kando lines on a Garrett turbo)

Yes, the AFM has 5v in and the element measures flow by vibrations in the passing air and outputs a voltage. The ECU reads that as airflow and plots a certain point on its mapping with that data along with other data. To say it would little impact on mixtures is ridiculous. Thats like saying boosting a stock R33 cant possibly make it hit R&R................... Wrong right? Yeap. The points that are likely to be screwing his mixtures badly are the cruise areas of the map like I said. Between 3000 and 4000 rpm where the turbo IS pumping a fair volume but is not yet 'boosting'. You have to agree that the stock turbo would not suck an identical volume to a 3076R at that level, and its doing a little more than idling along (consider your in 3rd gear at 40kmh and start trying to chuff along to 60kmh). Thats going to be a big difference in flow from the compressor between the two, and subsequently a big difference in the resultant map trace. I hope Ive explained it clearly enough for you. My theory is that his plugs are fouled. Remember that his comments were, it ran like shit after I drove it a while. Not, my car ran like shit ever since I installed the new turbo.

Not true man. You should have a 20G fitted and fabbed for the cost of an IW garrett on its own (Turbo itself with IW housing and actuator). Im pretty sure they go for over $1000 without the rear housing and the genuine garrett housing is over $500 without the actuator which is another $120 atleast. And forgive me if I am wrong but a Garrett CHRA is in the vicinity of $1300. Call it $1800 to be fair and you still dont have a dump pipe, intake pipe or lines. Kando is $700, EWG $400, say $600 to attach the gate and make a dump pipe, say $300 for an intake pipe and some silicon/odds and ends. Totals $2k and its actually on and running, waiting for a tune.

Youve stuffed the plugs because your driving a car tuned for a 1hp turbo which now has a 500hp turbo. The ecu measures load by AFM voltage, I imagine that the AFM voltage would be a little higher when your cruising around (using some throttle) than when using the tiny turbo. Get it to a tuner ASAP as the extra fuel would be washing down the bores and potentially FK'ing the motor.

Thanks for the above, I needed more insight into trims and sizes

sorry mate the point here is the Kando chra's comes built and balanced. you then just buy the housings and lines. i hope that clears it up for you

Haters gonna hate 600hp was the magic troll figure i guess, here it is lol

lol an hours work man, i am the SR specialisto'

i think you guys are onto something... but keep it between yourselves

i thought you were cool man too many haters in this thread. period.

mine is a 10.1" touch screen pad, it docks into a keyboard which makes aesthetically identical to an equal size notebook. i wrote all this by sliding my finger around the screen. top that Kent's

Ohhh I'm excitement! If I don't BIN my SR before then you may sell me! Here's hoping man. P.S. I take it that the wiring stuff we discussed worked out?

Do you still need an external waste goat when you run a HKS blow valve?

Why oh why didnt I check this thread before I closed memebase for the day....... Mother of god...

They are right in saying keep it for now man, Lith did say the VCT could be your issue. Remember changing the cam timing alters the motors effective VE, just like opening the throttle does. (makes the motor more efficient) That being said different VE = different area of the graph at given RPM/boost. CFM = L x RPM x VE x Pr 5660 So watch this.. 2.5 x 4000 x 90 x 2.5 / 5660 = 397.5 CFM Now look here (Ive picked 97% as a random number as an example): 2.5 x 4000 x 97 x 2.5 / 5660 = 428.45 CFM = Higher CFM, meaning further to the right of the comp map. If that doesnt make sense, I did you a graph. Remember that the outermost limit of the map on the LEFT side is surge and the RIGHT side is heat (excessive heat). Remember also, these are rough calculations.. The VE could be lower or the comp map could be a little mis represented.. Either way, a rough calculation shows the motor is pretty damn close to the surge line at 4000 rpm. Now plot it yourself at 3700 RPM where you probably are hitting 20psi and watch it come even closer if not cross the line.

Nice product, but still no gasket match photo lol

Single scroll 35R Twin scroll 3788R Im sure that will help you. Results are there, its a nice unit.

For potential buyers it is actually over $100 cheaper to buy the turbo in parts (cover/core/turbine housing) than it is to buy it complete. I think there was a dude a few pages back showing his mates one with a 2.4" neck, I rekon he would want your 3".

Dont worry mate, my car is a nightmare too. Even Jez has nightmares about my car I just dont talk about it too much

This. Then stock up on a bolt on kit consisting of: Kando Tial 44 NZ manifold Dump Intake Cooler pipe Then customers can drop off their car and you can install the kit PLUS tune it. Start emailing Suppliers of those parts (and a boily) and organise a 10 batch buy at discounted rates, pass on some of the discount to your customers with KICK ASS labour charge and your off n racing! GOLD