GTScotT

Mafia said that little tank lasted 1 tank of fuel on his thread. I think he must have been thrashing it the entire tank lol. I am aiming to have my car tuned well without WMI then try to add WMI from that point on. I will probably have Jez focus his tuning on actuator pressure first, then maybe up to 10 or 12psi without any WMI, then we can introduce the WMI and see where it ends up. I want to know if im out of water I can simply hit the low boost or turn the EBC off and keep hammering on. More convenient than being stuck in goulburn with no E85 stations around lol.

I think Darren (jet_r31) also has very valuable knowledge to contribute

LAWL well Im at work, so I cant divulge into massive detail. I have just bought a Snow Performance kit, which I have seen a couple of other members run, and paid about $470 delivered. Its got a digital controller that can plot water volume relative to boost, and has start/end point adjustments so you can configure your car to run it on high boost only or whatever else you want to do. Aquamist systems seem more popular in the US and are fitted to all the cars in the european rally championship. I dont know much about those kits other than they have the brand name in the market. Water more or less quenches the heat in the boost charge and turns into steam when it does so. Steam ends up acting like boost and increases your dynamic compression ration. More or less you will end up with double the cooling effort of a good quality FMIC (or better) and will be able to put more boost and timing into the mix without detonation. I am doing this as a replacement to E85 as I want to retain my 98 setup. I will be running straight demineralised water (no alcohol as I want to keep this perfectly feasible). Application specific data I have found is that it takes 60*c out of charge temps and 100*c out of EGT's. That would add a massive amount of ping resistance to regular piss 98, without the worry of varying content flex fuel or needing to stock up a bloody CSR E85 drum in your garage. No Jerry cans when you head to the track either. f**k Jerry, I hate that prick. If set up right I am anticipating it will make reaching the maximum flow from a compressor a lot easier, and will help bring boost on stronger. The cooling effect will stop the 98 going off before its meant to, and the resultant dynamic compression will put more volume through the turbine and in essence bring it on faster and harder (like a high comp motor). Also, everything post nozzle will be squeaky clean if your motor ever blows you will think you blew a brand new motor by how little carbon build up you will find in the IM and ports

So probably the 4000 - 4500 mark.

Stao there are 3 results for the L2 20g in the Kando thread 1 DVS JEZ - E85, gate is too small and cant run/control boost properly. 286, 15psi 2 ARTZ - 98ron, clutch slipped during tuning. 267, 14psi 3 Dori34 - 98ron, NO VCT, surge on spool up. 280kw, 19psi I will also be very interested if you can make a similar sort of turbo for SR specific application. Such as a TD05H billet 20G, internal gate 5 bolt. The one Kando sells does not flow very well, this might be your time to shine. I can test this item for you, I can strip/fit my turbo in under 1.5hrs and have all the right setup, Jez does my tuning. Now waiting on a WMI kit too

Still waiting to see a photo of gasket matching too, thanks.

LOL is that also a 3" charge pipe out of the turbz? Looks a lot bigger than on my car and I run a 2.5"

I understand your reasoning, but I also understand my own .. As usual we each have convincing conflicting arguments. Lol. The way I see it, we could both be correct. To put it out there I am pitching my theory as a 'possibility', not a fact. lol

No. AFAIK its only surging on spool up at lower RPM. So that would mean the WG is still controlling boost once the motor starts to open up. BUT, I still believe that could impact it up top. Remember the silly RB has a threshold where it opens up around the 4000 mark, and these 20g's are making boost at the 3500 mark. That being said, there is probably MOAR to be had if we can work out how to make the thing swallow more air before its natural threshold (Peak torque at lower RPM).

Not to me. By my understanding, compressor speed could potentially be hindered by the surge and not recovering in full by peak power. So if the surge slowed shaft speed theres nothing to say that it wont let it follow through a little further over the whole graph once its fixed. The above is assuming its not out of puff at its 280kw point (the graph appears to level out but that could be in Jez pulling timing before the redline). Just shift the 'after dip' curve back to where the dip starts and there is this 1000rpm gap up top.. thats 1000rpm of power making potential IMHO.

Talk about a mad troll right? lol Anything repro' MHI is awesome. Just look at Hyundai!

LOL thats actually a really good idea. Under rate the turbo, keeping expectations in line with response and let end users be happily surprised in the end.

I actually found it before lunch, wish you had asked prior lol. Its roughly the page 15 area of his GTX thread. He made 288 peak, about the same power at 3000rpm and about 20kw less at 4000rpm.. So once your VCT is fixed, you should easily make more at the 3000 mark, and open the gap further at the 4000 mark. Who knows... Maybe the surge cover will also help you clear more up top too.

Dori once you get your VCT and surge sorted, I would like to see you get it dyno'd at unigroup. unigroup graphs always seem to have so much area under the curve, but im not sure if thats scaling or actual results.. ive asked mick_o to do the same and come to jez, would be interesting to see.. Im confident you guy will catch the GTX on eflex, his results were similar on 98.

HIP HIP HOORAY

Just check to see how much preload you have without adjusting it, just for an idea.

His VCT is not working and hes also got comp surge. Id like to see with VCT and an antisurge housing

So Stao, think this F1 car could gain anything if you put a 4" intake on its turbos? lol Whats that like 2.5" yeah??

Then Derp posts his results and everyones like: "Its OVER NINEE THOOUUSSAAANNDDDD!!!!!!!" SIU SIU SIU SIU *Glowing blonde hair is on fire* Thanks for giving your opinion on this, as I was wondering why reports of other turbos that match the power @ rpm get different reports. I think you should look into what causes that effect!

Winnar!

Yeah, so doesnt a GTRS do roughly 180-200 @4000 and end up around 250 by 7000? LOL So its more or less hitting GTRS benchmarks, OK glad we agree.

180rwkw @ 4000rpm IS comparable to a GTRS, I agree. Forget about where it hits full boost etc etc. The power @ RPM will tell you what its doing flow wise, which is what counts.

T4 open 5557

No T4 opens AFAIK Zeeb and I have been doing a little revision on these lately, but PT and Garrett would have you sorted (can get T4 open prints from GCG for the GT30-35 range).

To me the SS1PU is a GTRS replacement with a little more scope for a well sought setup. That being said, the GTRS is a 240-250kw item with ballistic response. So far the SS1PU is living up to my expectations, and Stao has shown it definitely has the scope for more (which I dont think the GTRS can do 'as easily'). If I owned an SS1PU on a fairly simple setup I would want around 240 and id be happy with its outcome. If I had spent lots of time making sure my cooler and exhaust and stuff were all good, and no valve float etc, then I would want 270 from it. Remember that Stao runs a fresh motor and upgraded valve springs. While it still is a 'stock' RB25 it is pretty much the best a stock RB25 can be. As Birds has noted previously, the guy has spent countless hours perfecting his test car and knows how to get the best out of it. Dont buy an SS1PU expecting 280kw without LOTS of effort.