GTScotT

Make him wait Dori lol My interest can wait

I will assume you have an RB powered car, in which case I will say both the GTRS and 5558 are poor options for 300kw. Firstly the GTRS is not capable of getting you there, that is a 250kw job and thats it. The Precision is a high boost application and will need E85 to make it a comfortable result. There are better/easier methods of hitting the 300 mark on an RB (assume RB25 from here), I would recommend you look at a GT30 based turbo or a hypergear G3 unit. The GT30 has great resale and is a well proven item, it will need a custom dump/lines/intake. The hypergear G3 will need the custom intake pipe but will work with most of the stock lines and will bolt up to the OEM dump. The G3 is probably a little more likely to hit 300kw on 98 but the GT30 will be a little more responsive (both run a .82 IW housing). If you want to move to an externally gated option you can pick up one of the 'steampipe' manifolds for a good price and look at a kando T67 for you 300kw mark. That will be more likely to net 330kw, and the mentioned kit totals roughly the same as a hypergear and much less than the said GT30. Now back to precision turbos.

get him to a basic highflow on the thing, should get you exactly that

^ thats awesome mate thanks for sharing, helps me decide if i want one on my SR Can you divulge the specs of that motor? Is it heavily moded or internally stock etc? headwork and cams? Thanks, Also great to hear your getting back on the dyno today dori! cant wait

Being highflowed in the past means it is no longer a GT2860RS.... it just has the RS front cover, who knows whats inside. It does look poorly sized at the moment. If it is blown I recommend you send it to Hypergear and have him fit one of his CHRA into your housings. Should cost less than a full turbo. If it is not blown I recommend you work out what spec it is then sell it used. Put that money towards a hypergear SS1PU. GL

ooft bar up bad boy! lol cant wait to see your results on 20psi, this thing is working as planned so far

lol dori was stuck on a bar because of control issues, its been sorted now and were waiting to see the final results. your stuck on a bar coz your clutch.... was like a bar of soap! happy trolololo !

+1 to metal filings in small cavities. I recommend you buy a spare and scrap that one, accidents happen and its spilled milk really. GL

Yeah it doesnt look like its on. The curve is what id expect from WG pressure alone, which shows it is a really epic result Sucks you have to do it twice but hey.. Im onto my 3rd attempt lol You need to love cars to really hate them

Awesome result on 14 psi new clutch, 20psi. Go hard.

Ah, k. Did you try increase the spark dwell?

Yeah seems it really doesnt like the tighter housing. Is that Blakes old turbo? Coz the dyno sheet says SL2 but blakes was a H

nahh fk it. click buy lol

That depends if the 98 likes 24psi out of that compressor or if it will need a little help lol but agreed.

i think what would be cool is if the car dynod 200kw and the app showed 200kw, i would be impressed. more so if it was consistently accurate against lots of cars. that would be really cool. but using it to determine how much power your car has, instead of being impressed with what an iphone can do, a liiiiitte silly. one day im sure this technology will totally be possible. but right now i dont think we should fuss over the very first sign of such a thing P.S. 206kw for your described setup is probably a little overstated. Maybe at the flywheel.

Double post.

the way I see it, the last thing the h wheel will do is add power anywhere in the band. What it will do is add a little more scope to the compressors maximum flow. Simon has already noted that his compressor has maxed out before the hotside, what more do you need? that being said its no science to see the h wheel will be application specific. For example if i wanted blitzing 350kw and i put a t67 on a bad ass rb34 but the thing maxed out at 5500rpm, i would know the restriction was in the hotside. I would then try move to a larger housing, and if that did not yield the result inwas after I would then move to a h optioned unit. Obviously the idea is bring the thing on later and keep it on longer. It would be trial and error between 10cm H or 12cm L2 in my eyes. And again Simon is reving his to 8 with no sign of turbine cap. Now lets all forget about the h turbine until someone builds that bad ass rb34 i mentioned.

Please clear it up if you could, as my understanding was formed on your comment about put a spanner on it and thats it. As you said all parts are balanced individually

You keep your existing turbine housing but its a new CHRA. The compressor is different and uses a different housing to suit, yet the turbine can use the exiting 75 housings despite being different. My take on it is you can buy both the front and rear wheels along with a compressor housing and put it all together yourself.

Has anyone seen the GT3076 eflex results in the dyno thread yet? Interesting to see and compare. A trusted tuner I should add.

My old evo was much louder with an airbox than it was with a large surface pod. The airbox had a trumpet looking snout on the front of it lol

IBTL How much SOLID cash? $1200? I have one for that much.

Forgot to mention that cat looks to have smaller flanges than the front pipe and catback section. It also flares up to the cat body, making me confident it has been made by an exhaust shop and not an off the shelf item. I would say it was done by the compliance shop, and my first guess is that it would be a bag of shit. Buy a nice one that is off the shelf fitment and put it on yourself.

are you worried about the brand? are you a brand whore? do you one day hope to include it in a vietnamese style for sale thread where everything is neatly itemised and you hope to sell for double the regular price because of SLR photos new royal purple oil serviced every 1000km SUPER MUSHIMOTO ZIEX TYRES Honestly though. Its really unlikely anyone will know what it is based on any photo you can take. I can tell you its an RSR system, the brand is on the label. The rest of it is alpha numeric and its in japanese, id say thats the serial number which still wont tell you anything about the model or type. If its 3 inch its 3 inch. If it sounds good it sounds good. Be happy, it came with the car. P.S. yes 3 inch can efficiently flow up to 350rwkw.

he said 1200