GTScotT

Do you really peg the H22A with similar character to an RB25? That's some jump. If its good flow at low boost I would be thinking larger compressor smaller turbine. Maybe TD05H 20G? I can only see this as a negative if the user wants to access the upper most regions of the compressors flow capacity. Remember again the Evos do quite well out of the little TD05H

From what I know the SL2 18g gives a more linear delivery than its 20g counterpart. But the only videos I have seen have been on mildly tuned 1JZ's. The outcome was as fast as the 20g from memory, but more of a passive aggressive approach rather than the brutal hit of the 20g. Either way, your now talking about a result that doesnt warrant a big dirty TD06SL2 wheel. Here: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Anti-Surge-TD05H-18G-w-T3-8cm-V-Band-External-Gate-Hsg-/290677530717?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43adbb205d

there is a car you should look at on NS called JET200. Its nothing special but it documents the guys experience with a T67 on an SR. I think he ended up wanting shorter gearing and a much higher rev limit despite notable gains when going down to an 8cm housing. What's the power goals of the Honda? In any event I think the T67 isn't a great option at 11psi anyway.

well its either an 8cm or a 12cm for you, id say 12cm will still be less than optimal for drift but 8cm might just work. I seem to say this a lot but if you read the entire thread you will find some comment on 8cm variants on RB25s throughout. Earlier in the thread status actually commented on how an 8cm T67 acts on an RB25... I can only assume the SL2 wheel in an 8cm housing will work easier being driven by a 20g than it would a 25 now time to read the entire thread.

why do you need to re core? if u need a new turbo i would probably rethink the whole operation and sell your kit

lol i guess the 'still' would change everything. i would assume BW arent in a big rush to roll them out anymore because of the prior issues. they are more likely to provide to a smaller client base for testing (workshops/race teams). these are still on the map for me but as selfish as it is i want to see more results that show they are more phenomenal than the competitors.

your not wrong. sif they wouldnt just try a bleed valce, just to be sure its not the evc. im sure a bleeder would have more or less fixed it also

production issues actually, havent you read the thread start to end? no point being interested if you havent

Cant say I didnt say it lol

I would do it every day of the week. And when you get bored of the 16g just whack on a kando CHRA. Heres a shopping list for you champ: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbine-Housing-Kinugawa-TD05H-T517Z-T518Z-T3-8cm-AR61-V-Band-External-Gated-/290677531859?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43adbb24d3 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TURBOSMART-ULTRA-GATE-38MM-BLUE-EXTERNAL-WASTEGATE-VL-/130653329019?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6b8b967b http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/391632-steam-pipe-single-turbo-manifolds-on-fleabayanyone-know-anythging-about-this-supplier-and-their-products/

mm. well its nothing to do with them that its dropping boost.. I just wanted to know. I dont think the issue is in the turbo either, that rear wheel and housing combo has been proven plenty with the T67s and I doubt the 20g will throw it off that much that it caps out that early. Try get the boost to stay on I guess. Did you try running a higher duty and lower gain? IE slow spool with high target?

whos tuning? and yeah id pop in a 20psi spring for a go

then increase gate pressure

its not necessarily stopping power, its not holding boost. try a bigger spring in the gate then?

Have you considered the gate mod to the manifold might be holding it back? I wonder what would happen if it was plumbed off the rear housing instead with an intact manifold. And that is some pretty rapid spool. Will be interesting to see the final result. Don't forget Jez has the same turbo and housing.

lol nice. might come together quicker than I thought then!

Actually its sold lol, collected money for it yesterday. Im confident theres nothing wrong with the disco itself but its a bad match to the high comp motor and the cams are also shit. I did say you would make the 250-260 mark mate. A nice result, but like weve been discussing theres possibly more in it with another exhaust housing, probably not worth the hassle tho. How responsive is it on the street?

this car an original turbo? with original diff?

fast forward 3 years, BSA posts video of first start lol

Your not the dude I met at St Marys station for the .64 housing are you? Roy I read it on the FP site amongst other places.

Have you thought about trying an 8cm? Maybe it wont be as bad as you think. The 3 bolt flange is said to flow 30% more than a square flange, maybe with a big gate it will work fine and be even more responsive? You could always try.

Sounds fine. You will be able to get a 12cm item which should work nice. A little laggier but hey... Cant have everything lol. If search TD06 triangle housing, you will find the Kando listings for the item. Sometimes they have Kinugawa in the description also. If you need help determining which housing to get its simple, measure the outer diameter of your turbine wheel. 61mm SL2, 65mm Standard TD06, 67mm TD06H.

yea thats an older style 2 bolt oil feed, its typical of an old T series turbo

the housings are R32 housings (04u on the exhaust side, R33 is 2IU R34 OP6) its definitely a high flow, god knows what specs

if they need seals they honestly arent worth much at all.. i think a rebuild with seals will start at a bare minimum of 400 each through hypergear, assuming nothing is damaged. the price could go up from there up to 800 each. realistically if they arent genuine its probably a waste anyway.. better to have a look here and buy brand new genuine units: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/229588-gtr-turbo-upgrades-garrett-gt2860r-5-7-9-10/ more expensive but you know what they say, do it once do it right