GTScotT

In short: "I installed a bov and then I took it off on the same day, because I hate bov's" Some people have weird ways of passing time.. OP, you can run it on the hot side its fine. In theory the closer it is to the throttle the better but I've never had a problem with it on the hot side and many brand name parts come in a kit on the hot side. Whatever really..

That tag doesnt look genuine.. Anyone agree?

standard price for a 6boober is about 1300 on am RB

Question for Trent (STATUS): Do you believe the example shown for the 2871 vs L2 10cm to be acceptable as a 'rule of thumb' expectation? The results you gave showed the L2 was just as responsive as a 2871 (am asuming .64 rear) and when the 2871 capped off at 250kw the L2 kept going to 300.... Am tossing up if I can expect the same from my own basic SR setup if I was to do a T3 10cm L2-20g with a decent manifold and gate.. The 2871 isnt too laggy when setup right (IMHO) but I am scared of how horrid a 10cm 20g might be on a stock SR. Input would be highly appreciated

Roy. I want your rims. End.

I like your work, but I still need a reply to that last email re the high mount SR/Evo manifold

wanna sell the buddy club gear knob? PM me

Any images of inside the collector?

I think the SS1PU is a good thing all round, stao has put some hard effort into it and it works well. looking forward to your results.

I know this but the failures are not well documented at this stage. It could be that they work OK at lower boost levels. I doubt this guy will get close to 20psi before the compressor is maxed anyway. What size is the rear housing? I cant open them at work but I think Kando only do 8 and 12cm jobs

It will be interesting to see your reuslts, and you will probably be a pioneer in doing so. If you are willing to try it out then go for it. Like ARTZ said probably 240kw tops, but it may feel pretty nice to drive in all honesty. Who knows, maybe you can be the one to prove they arent as bad as we have been making them out to be? Afterall its all theory based at the moment.

RB30 s2 block COUGH what?

Fitting on high mount = yes it can. But thats a different kettle of fish, we wont get into on your FS thread. Thanks for confirmation that it was a cartridge replacement, thats great. Buyers can be confident they are getting an awesome product. GL

Was it rebuilt in 2007 with the same spec wheels as standard? Not machined to a full size GT30 rear wheel was it? This is the bee's knee's of turbos, I'm sure you will sell it quick.

Have you asked HG to send you some? His after sales service is second to none, maybe he can source them for you and you pay him for them.

I think there are enough build threads these days not to warrant a guide to modding thread... R33s are probably the simplest car to mod, all you need is to buy a fairly unmolested example and the outcome is anyones game. OP just try and keep your car as simple as possible. Power mods to a STOCK car as follows: JJR bellmouth dump, 3" cat, 3" catback (feel free to go bigger) JJR cross flow intercooler (feel free to get a better quality item) Turbotech boost tap (feel free to use an EBC) Walbro or Bosch fuel pump Get it on a dyno and turn the boost up till just before you hit cut, should do 180rwkw on 9 or 10 psi. Add turbo of choice (from highflow to GT30 style item or high mount and external gate, do the reading and pick your poison) Add injectors/Z32 afm/ECU and tune to suit the turbo change The described above could easily get you up to 350rwkw on pump fuel with the right turbo choice. If something fails, you tackle it individually to the above, like coilpacks. They are not NEEDED unless your stock ones fail, and then new stock items are usually best again. Thats all you need to know, now you have to do lots of reading. Goodluck,

yeah no throttle till close to 4500 rpm

Your better off with a narrower rim for a drag radial, that way your tyre outlay is a little less and you get some more bulge on the tyre which will flex and give grip on launch. I dont need to tell you but the wider the rim the wider the tyre and up goes the price. Personally the rims I have set asside for my drag adventures are a pair of Evo 4 Enkeis off my old E4 which are 16x6.5 Also, add 500ml displacement to your setup Roy and I think that video will look very different (not that I have seen it while at work)

Need a certified jet pilot to help? I aint affraid to get the hammer down early lol

Dont post a video unless its full throttle, its misleading to see something that isnt 100% of its ability I think the G4 CEL can be set to do different tasks.. Normally the CEL is for knock, you will have to ask Yavuz what hes set the CEL to do on your G4.

I only know one 'fast' Roy: rubber ones

Well said Roy

STATUS is yet to disagree lol He does a lot of Kando's.

If you can do T2 flange then I recommend the following, it actually works as an internal gate turbo (the T3 ones suck): http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Cover-TD05H-18G-T25-Flange-8cm-/280816756811?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4161fba84b Or if you are stuck running T3, get an external gate and hang a gate off the housing: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Anti-Surge-TD05H-18G-w-T3-8cm-V-Band-External-Gate-Hsg-/270902563574?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f130d12f6

Whats shipping going to be link to sydney 2222? You may have yourself a buyer, please PM me the shipping quote