Wogan

don't think so.. but i'll double check. Thanks

Series 1 rb25 turbo .. fair bit laggier than standard.. and should be able to maintain power at the top end. full boost at 4000 isn't too bad

1990 32 gts-t series 1 rb25 turbo @ 14psi apexi pod filter greddy FMIC r33 GTR fuel pump just jap split dump pipe high flow cat greddy pe2 cat-back nistune ecu 241.2hp (179.9kw) @ 6300 rpm on dyno dynamics

Dyno Sheets: 22nd Sept 08: 24th Oct 08:

that's a possibility i hadn't considered... one of those silicone intake pipes much better? .. or need something more rigid?

correct me if i'm wrong, but split pipes are meant to work better (in theory) due to the turbulent air coming out of the turbo.. by splitting the wastegated exhaust down a separate pipe and re-joining the main flow at a later point where the turbo's air is less turbulent, it allows better flow for the wastegated gasses. This should allow for better flow. however if the wastegate side of the split dump isn't large enough it could cause over boost (as Pal is experiencing) ..

kk fuel filter will be replaced then. Dyno sheets coming tonight.. i'd love to drive home and get them, but i do kinda need my job. Power is dropping.

got it dyno'd twice (once an initial tune with the new ecu and again when i "hi-flowed" my cat and upped the boost a little) .. Both showed the same symptom of the restriction. On the first initial tune the A/F ratio was bang on 12:1 for the whole rev range.. the second (which i will post tonight) is less consistent, but still in a good range. i believe the filter was replaced with my 100,000k service (which was only 8000k's ago)

I'll post sheets tonight once i get home from work. I didn't think it'd be the turbo, but it is quite noisy. My theory on the intake is that if the flow was restricted, then not enough air would be able to get into the system to maintain the boost.. but point taken. i will investigate that side of the system also. Perhaps a larger filter is in order. I hope it's not the cat-back.. sounds really nice and cost a pretty penny. Thanks for feedback

Hey all, I have a restriction on my air flow in my R32 gts-t .. I'm currently in the process of troubleshooting to work out which part of my intake / exhaust is causing the problem, and i was wondering if anyone could offer some good knowledge to see if i'm on the right track. Here is my car's setup. rb20det apexi pod filter greddy spec-m fmic rb25 turbo just jap split dump x-force hi-flow cat (since been made even more higher flowing ) greddy pe2 cat-back gtr fuel pump nistune ecu manual boost controller Here are my assumptions .. please correct me if i'm wrong: - The dyno sheet shows a quite steep decline in horsepower once revs reach over 6000rpm. This indicates i have a restriction? - The sheet also shows that boost is maintained flat on 14psi all the way to the end of my revs. This means the restriction is not on the intake side? - The Greddy cat-back wouldn't be restrictive would it? - Could the turbo itself be the restriction? - Is it possible the wastegate pipe on the split dump is too small? any advice / suggestions are highly appreciated. Unfortunately my budget is quite small, so i want to minimise trips to the dyno. Thanks!

ditto.

Well i jacked it up on the weekend and took the boot off.. it's most definitely a ball joint under there and it definitely has play in it. Is one of those Tie Rod's easy to get new or should i go back to JPC and tell him that he was wrong and ask if i can get one from him?

can't we just leave some empty spots? .. less cars means more track time each, hahaha

is the circled joint a ball joint? .. i assume it is some sort of joint...

did the driver TRY to hit the pole?!?! ... even if you made a small effort to avoid the pole i find it hard to imagine you'd hit it so perfectly in the middle... good thing the engine is in the back.

yeah I've got a lockbar, but if this joint has play, the lock bar won't fix that.

yeah i need a lot of work.. haha

Hey.. thought i'd steal the thread name of the last guy who has HICAS issues. (since it shares my sentiments) Here's my story (and i hope it's not too confusing) I took my car to Hyperdrive a while ago and they pointed out a joint in my hicas which has play in it... if you jack the car up, you can rock the wheel diagonally holding front top and bottom right. I bought a joint from Jap Performance Parts in Ozzy park which (through my description) they thought was the issue. I then took the car to a 3rd garage (yeah i'm a garage whore), who told me i bought the wrong joint, and that i need the ball joint on the tie-rod of the HICAS arm. On returning to Jap Performance Parts they told me that the joint in question is not a ball joint but is solid... so now i have no idea what's going on... here is the "joint" in question: You can kinda see that the rubber boot on it appears to have split.. is this a ball joint? .. could it have play in it even if it isn't? .. could this be moving but the problem be elsewhere?

I work as a video editor, so i'd be happy to cut a couple videos. Only problem is my lack of a camera.

Thoughts go out to the family and friends... Hopefully we can learn from this and save speed for the track.

paul oakenfield - ready steady go confidential - it really don't matter foo fighters - stacked actors, the pretender, everlong killswitch engage - my curse breaking benjamin - diary of jane disturbed - stricken jay z - show me what you got nerd - rockstar audioslave - show me how to live, gasoline rage against the machine - renegades of funk, know your enemy hmm.. that's all i can think of right now that's in my current rotation.

according to the list i'm donating my turbo to your car for the day >_> .. haha

thank god someone has their priorities right!

it's tru.. that's what i did.

get an early 90s civic hatch.. not the coolest of cars, but the dohc models have a little zip and those things are on rails! great fun. they're pretty cheap and they run on fumes. also cheap for insurance.. getting a lancer and ricing it up isn't a good way to save money for a proper car.