SteveL

From my bolts, standard M8 with 1.25mm thread pitch (M8x1.25mm). Length is 19mm under the head and has a captive 18mm OD flat washer. 20mm length from a bolt shop is what you'll be able to get. Make sure they're zinc plated. If you're concerned about strength, grade 8.8 will be more than enough. Original PN is 01121-04971. Now discontinued according to Amayama but that's because it's one of the parts that's been captured by the Heritage program, which explains the ridiculous price. New PN is 01121-RHR20: https://nismodirect.com/nismo-heritage-bolt-pin-hinge-hood-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gt-r-01121-rhr20-01121-04971/ About AUD33 converted from Yen in the above link but that's just one example. Interesting that the hinge-to-body bolts are still available non-heritage.....PN 08116-8161G around $2 each (amayama). Same thread but 16mm long.

As above, could be fuel. Have a sniff of the plugs - oil and fuel have distinctive smells. If the engine was burning oil I'd expect the plug tip to be black and oily, not largely 'clean' oil. Also the car would be blowing white smoke at idle with that amount of oil. I have seen something like this once before on an RB that had leaking rocker cover gaskets. Oil was 'pooling' in the spark plug wells and when the plugs were removed the oil was making its way onto the threads and the end of the plugs.

I assume the lights/sirens are for those last, desperate passing manoeuvres LOL. If you don't mind I'll pass this on to others I know that might be interested but don't come here. If there's any interest I'll let you know with contact numbers. Suitable trailer is probably going to be the sticking point.

I'm good with that......as long as you're volunteering to be the CTD.......

....or - better yet - forget about ruining a perfectly good car and just go out and buy a taxi with its own pre-installed boat anchor..... [that should get 'em going.....in my defence I'd note that I've done the Chev 350 into Jag thing but that was years before I got my GTR, and the Z come to think of it]

370z is a nice car to drive and, personally, on looks alone I'd take one of those over an R33 any day. Had a supercharger on my Silhouette for awhile. Great around town......BW diff didn't like it much though.

Yeh that's bad and seriously perforated. That said, depending on the complexity of the channel design on the 'other side' (hidden in the photos) it should be possible to cut out the rust and TIG weld in replacement sections. Quite a bit of work but doable with the right equipment and skills. After that it's appropriate corrosion protection treatments - zinc plating if possible but appropriate corrosion resistant primers, paints at the very least. Looks like the original part came with a basic paint job so corrosion was pretty much inevitable. You're in Germany from your profile, so spares are probably thin on the ground (??) if that turns out to be the only way to go. Maybe the UK is a possibility where Japan imports are probably more common. According to Amayama some of these parts are still available new....but not cheap. Another option is specialists that might be able to source these parts from Japan like Import Monster, secondhand or new.

Buy what you want to buy if you can find it and ignore that other 'bullshit'.

Mine's fine, but thanks for the concern.

All R32/R33/R34 models have a comprehensive fault code mapping system, which is actually simple to check - do a search. Fault code check is always the first thing to do. If the original CAS had been faulty it would likely have tripped error code 11 (universal for all R32/R33/R34 models, I believe). Replacing the CAS didn't fix the problem suggests there was no error code (CAS OK) and makes me wonder whether they've been checked properly.

Engines would have been produced sequentially like the chassis, so low numbers probably = earlier. Nissan FAST doesn't identify particular engine numbers with specific cars, so likely engines were installed as they were available/needed. Some motorcycle manufacturers use(d) matching engine/frame numbers (I have a couple like that) but it doesn't seem to happen with mass production cars AFAIA, probably to simplify production. Maybe with a Ferrari. Anyway, if it helps my Sept '89 chassis number 1650 came (I believe) with the original engine 002910A.

Have used these guys in the past but they have minimum order requirements. Maybe they can put you onto someone that will sell you the number you need. http://www.montronics.com.au/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=10 http://www.montronics.com.au/images/PDF Docs/P-Clamps Parts List (Rev 161014).pdf

This is just a variation on the fish oil method, but it's a delaying tactic only not to mention very difficult to actually do with things like that R34 strut reinforcing plate. If you wanted to go down that path, you'd be better off using a an inhibited corrosion wax like this: https://ppcco.com.au/bilt03.html This is the aerosol version designed for cavities but I think also available as brush on. These are mass produced unitary steel body cars.....rust is inevitable without integrated corrosion protection. Some manufacturers moved to zinc plated panels in some situations, but that's expensive and very uncommon when these cars were made and even now. The move to thinner HSLA steel sections (lighter cars) didn't help. The R34 strut corrosion problem is caused by the fact that they included a reinforcing plate (probably because of the width of the tower) without decent corrosion protection for the cavity between the plates. Corrosion was inevitable, just a matter of when it appeared. Short of zinc plating the sections, inhibited primers and wet-setting (inhibited sealer) would be the way to go (as in aircraft) but never going to happen on these sorts of cars in production. The only way to treaty the R34 issue is to do what some people are already doing - remove the plate, remove the rust, treat the area (phosphoric acid based converters only please), weld if necessary, prime, seal, etc, etc. Personally I would zinc plate or even galvanise the re-inforcing plate before putting it back and, of course, weld-through primers. R32's have a different strut tower design so don't suffer the same problems, but there are still overlap welds so may well do so in extreme situations - eg salted roads. Having just done a lot of rust repairs on my R32, believe me, they definitely have their own problem areas - sills, rear-wheel arches, etc Christ, I'm back to lecturing (shudder....).

More about it being done (13+ years ago....) than anything else. You're in Japan so drop into Top Secret and ask them 😎. Alternatively, throw lot's and lot's of money at them and I'm sure they'll do it for you.........

Anything can be repaired, it's just a matter of how much $$$ you're prepared to throw at it. That said, if this car hasn't been complied I doubt you'll find a RAWS that will touch it, not to mention getting a RWC would be a problem (in Vic, at least) even if you could get it complied The rust in the shock towers is the biggest problem. The paint cracking indicates that there's lots of corrosion between the steel plates. The corrosion product (rust) causes the plates to 'pillow' locally and the distortion cracks the paint, which just makes things worse. It's an instant red flag AFAIC. There's a lot of work involved in repairing that corrosion damage properly.

Could be just a faulty sensor or gauge. Check the actual pressure with a mechanical or digital pressure gauge screwed into the factory oil pressure sensor port on the engine before assuming anything about the oil pump, guage's, etc and randomly replacing parts.

That's not the sort of 'roll-over valve' anyone should be using in a race car.

Mechanical roll-over valves are a very simple devices.....a ball valve that is normally always open but in a roll-over the ball rolls to the other end of the valve and blocks off the hose/pipe whatever. There's no spring, they rely on gravity. I'd be surprised if that was the problem, but it depends on the design of the system......has the valve been installed properly in the first place ? Clearly the system is not venting properly for some reason, so a thorough inspection is really the only way to go. The amount of pressure you're describing is definitely not normal. Of course, the above assumes that you don't have one of the fancy electrical roll-over protection systems.

All the costs are borne by the buyer and the market in this case is, well, you + others that want a 370GT so I also find this a little strange. There's even a dedicated page on the Prestige website. https://prestigemotorsport.com.au/faqs/sevs-models-australia/nissan-skyline-crossover-370gt-and-370gt-premium-j50-series/ Anyway, your money, your choice.

This says A31 RB20det: https://club-s12.org/forum/index.php?topic=36737.0

Truck ratchet tie-down across the bonnet wheel-well to wheel-well....with appropriate paint protection, of course 😀 Good luck with it.

It's been a long, long time since I owned an R31, but I don't think it's meant to be like that. Supposed to be round and not elongated as if it's been worn from the bonnet flapping around. It should look more like the hinge in the attached image (not from a skyline but a Silivia, but you get the idea). You can see the pivot point has a shouldered 'rivet' and not a bolt. Thinking about it more a bolt may not work because of clearance issues when the bonnet is closed. You might be better to ask on the R31 forums: https://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?action=forum

That's part of the bonnet hinge, I think (??). If so, that hole is the hinge pivot point and there's no bolt but more like a big rivet. A bolt might be used, but only guessing at the diameter.....10/12mm. Where's the other 'half', presumably on the car or bonnet ??

These are for RB26, I doubt that RB25 will be different but I don't have a manual for that engine. Crank is 0.028-0.046mm (0.0011-0018 inches) Conrod is 0.020-0.039mm (0.0008-0016 inches) It's actually a bit more complicated than that because main and conrod journals/tunnels/rods are graded at the factory and then bearing thicknesses are selected to get the correct clearance. OTOH, with an aftermarket set of shells it's all one size, although there would be a very small variation due to manufacturing tolerances. In your case, if you're confident the journals are in good condition (short of actually measuring them with a mic....not vernier and most people don't have access to the specialist bore gauges required for main tunnels and rods) and you have the original bearing shells still in their original locations on the rods and block, you can measure the clearance with plastiguage, which will be a reasonable guide to the condition of the bearings/journals.