SteveL

Somethings not right with the one you've been offered if it doesn't have 7 wires. For a 6 cyl car there has to be 7 wires: 1 for battery connection (in the case of an R30 resistor pack that's the red wire on the loom connector) 1 wire for the power supply to each injector, 6 in total (those are the yellow wires, but notice each has a different colour stripe). There were some 4 cyl Nissans that used L-Jetronic injection and also had a resistor pack, but in that case there will be 5 wires.

Only 'sort of' correct.....you have the choice of installing a new water tank (min 1000L from memory) OR a solar hot water system in a new dwelling, but one or the other is mandatory. Of course, most go for a water tank as it's cheaper. We've had 2 water tanks (500L + 1000L) for 10+ years, and I'll be installing another 1000L tank before winter to supply our 2 toilets.

The body looks like the R32 GTR type, but the connector is wrong. BTW, I own an R32 GTR and have a couple of R30 resistor packs on the workbench in my garage.........

There is no such thing as an 'L24ET' from the Nissan factory in a production car and there's certainly nothing on the master parts list about such a thing. L24S = single carb motor

Ah, no it's not. What you have there is probably from an R30 Skyline (or perhaps 280ZX). R32 GTR resistor packs use a grey semi-oval connector plug and don't have a black rubber boot over the plug. OTOH, R30 Skyline resistor packs look exactly like what is shown in your photos, although the number of wires doesn't look right but that might just be the way the photo is taken. As far as I'm aware R33 GTR resistor pack is identical to R32 type. In any event, it will do the same job.

On every RB I've ever worked on that block is not threaded other than for the long adjustor bolt, but is clearance drilled and it's actually the mating lug on the alternator that is threaded (ie the part where you can see the bolt sticking out toward the bottom of that photo). So the lock bolt (which is what it's for - securing the adjuster mechanism) passes through that block, then the long adjuster bracket - which has a long, slotted hole - and finally screws into the threaded lug on the alternator. The idea is that the bolt clamps the block and the alternator to the adjustment bracket, which itself is attached to the block at the waterpump. Looking at that photo I suspect your problem could be that the bolt is too long. The standard bolt would only stick out from the alternator lug by a few mm at most. It's not standard and it's possible that there isn't enough thread, which means the bolt isn't able to be tightened sufficiently before running out of thread. This would mean that it would _appear_ that the bolt was tight when it actually wasn't and that might explain your squeels. Either that or some idiot has stripped the thread in the alternator lug and slipped in a longer bolt to fix the problem, in which case there should also be a nut on that bolt (and the fact that there isn't one would also explain the squeels, etc).

It's an enthusiasts car and worth a lot more to a (true) enthusiast than anyone else. With only 100 Oz spec versions imported (@ $100K+ on the showroom floor) it is a collectors item, esp it if it's original in every way bar suspension (Bilstein's are a plus, of course) plus has verifiable service/owners history. My guess would be anywhere between $30K and $40K for an excellent example, with lower k's fetching a higher price. Trade-in is anyones guess, but probably less than half what its actually worth.

No

Anyone answering this question needs to also state the level and type of any modifications. My car is very standard apart from exhaust - still relatively quiet - and suspension, which is quite stiff, but that's the way I like it. I'd have no problem using it as a daily driver in melbourne traffic, but don't need to.

It will be at least 90A as that's what late R33 RB25DET's use and I can't see that NEO's would have something with lower output. I have an R33 90A alternator on my R32 GTR, and the original GTR alt was fitted to the RB30 in my recently departed (via ebay) silhouette (so the R33 alt would have also have fitted the RB30). In each case the alternator was 'bolt on', but note that if your car is a VL, they mostly used Bosch alternators which have a totally different regulator connection.

Cracking in the caliper(s) could be a cause for concern.

I'll take it...you have PM.

Most likely an RB30 flywheel (VL or R31 Skyline), which don't have use a dowel pin.

Clutch throw-out bearing support extension is missing which means the front cover is toast (that's the part bolted to the front of what's left of the bellhousing). You'll need a new one, or find a good secondhand type. AFAIC, you should do a complete strip and inspection and if your lucky you'll get away with just replacing the bearings (brinelling is a distinct possibility on the input shaft bearing). With a big hit like this there could be internal damage, and it's possible the input shaft is bent.

around $20 to remove the remains of a broken stud.

Try: The Thread Doctor 0419 507 633 On site service to remove broken studs/bolts, but note the manifold/etc has to be removed. New studs are available from Nissan for a few dollars each.

Guaranteed to be a fatigue failure of the rocker arm. The question becomes, are any of the others cracked ??. NDI would tell the story, but might be worth changing regardless if this is a weak point. Seems to be some scoring of the inlet lobe. Why does the inlet cam appear 'black' compared to the exhaust (lighting ??).

Actually 'annealing' is a process involving slow cooling following heating. Rapid quenching can induce stresses due to dimensional changes, but in small parts it will hardly matter. A metallurgist will tell you that, with copper alloys at least, annealing relieves the effect of dislocation motion and 'pile-up', which ultimately results in the work hardening effect and, at the extreme, fracture. Dislocations are defects in the crystal lattice. Of course what annealing won't do is restore dimensions such as thickness (eg compression of a copper head gasket), which is why it's not an 'indefinate' process.

RB30ET uses upgraded rod bolts compared with RB30E. Trivia: all RB30 heads are the same casting.....which, at that time, were manufactured at Nissan's casting plant just outside of Dandenong in Victoria. Raw castings were shipped to Japan for final machining and assembly.

This is the Nissan PN for the compressor. According to FAST that PN compressor was fitted to all R32's with RB20DET (and some others) from August 1991 onward, but it is also listed as the replacement part for cars back to 1989. So it should fit your car assuming everything else is standard.

I don't have anything like that, but 200ZR is a Z31 with RB20DET so look for a local spec Z31 turbo as the hubs are 5-stud and likely to bolt up or be a fairly easy adaption (but note I've never tried it so aren't making any guarantees).

When you say 'front diff' is that just the centre ?? ....IOW what's included (or not).

While I haven't done an R33 one specifically, I have found that R31/R32 idler pulleys (and earlier) use a replaceable bearing which costs maybe $10. I'd be surprised if R33 wasn't the same. Suggest removing the idler and take it to a bearing specialist who should be able to supply a replacement....might even push the old one out and put in the new one for you. Note, when you take the pulley off also remove the aircon belt completely plus keep a track of the position of any bolts/nuts, etc so that you can put everything back together correctly. Of course, if you not sure, you could just take it to a mechanic but be prepared to pay 'a bit more'......

S15 manual uses 3.7 CWP from memory and is same R200 (more-or-less), so should fit, but I haven't tried this one. But what do you do with the front diff ??....might be some aftermarket CWP's for the front diff, but probably not common and whether you could get the same ratio is another matter. Of course you could just always run in RWD, but the taller ratio will kill acceleration.

More heat is the easiest solution, but there's a seal for the oil pump behind the sprocket and it would be a very good idea (IMHO mandatory) to replace the seal after applying heat to the area. Also that thin plate you can see behind the sprocket is a guide for the cam belt....try not to damage it and also try not to use the oil pump housing as a levering point. If heat doesn't work, cutting slots in the sprocket with an angle driver then using a cold chisel to split it is a last resort. Make sure you can get a replacement before destroying it first tho. In a couple of cases I've drilled and tapped holes in the sprocket then used a home-made puller to get it off, but that can only normally be done with the engine out, unless you have access to an air drill. Good Luck