SteveL

Unless these people were/are part of the engineering design team for that particular car or are a recognised VASS (in which case get them to sign it off), they aren't really in a position to judge. I know a lot of engineers that work for Holden and Ford plus a few that do conversions involving chassis mods and I'm confident they'd agree with what I've posted (before anyone asks.....no, I'm not giving out names). Already covered.....it has the _potential_ to affect the structural integrity of the chassis forward of the firewall. Whether it will is up to a VASS to decide. Anyway, I wish you luck (really) and am happy to be proved wrong.

This is the critical point. These cars are of _unitary_ construction, which means that any structure other than the bolt-on panels (and some minor welded on brackets) contributes to the stuctural integrity of the chassis. The OP seems to be assuming that the rails themselves form 'the chassis' forward of the firewall, but in fact all of the inner guards and radiator support panel contribute to chassis strength and, as you say, the crumple zone. Modification (cutting) of any of those parts other than specified/allowed by the OEM _might_ weaken the chassis in that area.....which is the reason that modifications to any of those parts requires some sort of engineering approval.

Actually they will. GTR TB's are 45mm and the butterfly spacing is almost identical to DCOE weber/mikuni/dellorto. Of course the mount bolts are different, but 'all' that is needed is an adaptor plate to a triple carb manifold similar to the one shown in the photo below, plus some mucking around with linkages. Anything can be done if you have access to the equipment.....(but I'm not saying it would be cheap if you don't) Oh and BTW, interesting to see old ideas being recycled. I've had a custom injection manifold (my manufacture) almost identical to the one shown in your photograph on my Z for the best part of 15 years with Motec control. There are far cheaper ways to do the TB's than those custom jobs, plus its better to mount the injectors at the mouth of the trumpets.

Nissan is part owned by Renault, so they sort of have a tie to F1 anyway (sort of.......)

You need an engineers certificate whenever you fit an engine that was not provided as standard by the OEM in that model, or offered as an option (for that model). In your case you have an ECR33 which had an RB25DET from the factory, and the RB26 was not offered as an option (the BCNR33 or R33 GTR is regarded as a totally different model), let alone an RB26/30. Of course, as others have suggested, the drones at Vicroads probably won't notice, but that doesn't make your car 'legal' and at the very least your insurance will be invalid (BTW, where do you live so I can avoid the suburb.......)

I've done some scrutineering for club sprints, although it's been a few years. Generally a cage is not required as it's meant to be more fun than serious racing (well, that's the theory.....). I doubt they'd worry if it's CAMS approved or not. There are exceptions, eg cars with a sunroof might get a frown from some scrutineers.

No such thing as error code 45 according to the R32 GTR factory WS manual, you'd better re-check. In any event the stock ECU diagnostics aren't set up to detect injector leaks as already suggested.

There's an echo in here. The double synchro design makes no difference to the strength of the gears.

I could, but I can't become 'involved' in any official way because of who I work for (my time is currently charged at around $1500/day and this is about a weeks work to a proper job, report, etc). I don't mind having an informal look and give you a guide as to what's going on + put you on to some people in Sydney that will be able to pursue it further if you want....at cost, of course). Unless a proper, scientific investigation is done, everything else is just pure speculation AFAIC. It's highly unlikely the materials are at fault, if properly designed and selected in the first place. Faulty materials probably account for <5% of all mechanical failures.

That's actually not correct. Nissan can't bypass it's 'fit for purpose' obligations by such statements, imported parts or not. Statutory warranty obligations still apply. However, you would have to prove that the part was faulty from manufacture.....and that's the difficult part.

None....they are exactly the same.

Those aren't the part numbers you need....the Nissan parts guy will probably just stare blankly at you. It's much better to have the full VIN of the car but here's what to do: - double click on the empty box to the right of the one that says 'Part No' - enter the first three numbers of the 'Part Code' shown in your list....in this case 132....and hit return - FAST may throw up another box asking which model/year for the car (but rocker cover gaskets are pretty common across the range so perhaps not). If it does you'll have to select (click on) the relevent car/year line in the pop-up. - the full PN's should now appear in the main window, along with some other info. Hope that helps

Don't want to offend you, but this just proves my point. I've had an L28 in my 260Z for a long time with a very mildly ported N42 (really just a cleanup) + flat-top pistons. It puts out 230+HP at the flywheel (and that's real HP measured on an engine dyno). If I put a 76deg cam in it plus did a full port and valve job, 250+ HP is well on the cards (actually, we've built L28's with much higher output, but the mods are more involved). There's just no need to go to these obscure heads.....apart from anything else, getting round port extractors would require sourcing from the US or custom made. In any event, this is getting OT for the OP, as I said, an E88 from an R30 will be more than adquate, esp if the rest of the engine is to be left fairly standard.

Yes, and it's basically a USA only head with round exhaust ports....never seen one in Oz, and beats me why anyone would bother, even if you could find one. A far better choice is to get hold of an R30 Skyline E88 head, which has bigger valves and ports than the stock E30 head from a C210, plus will give more-or-less the same CR. It's a bolt-on proposition.

Maybe this should be in the NSW section, but might be of general interest. Also couldn't find anything specific with a search. I'm considering buying a motorcycle from NSW and shipping to Vic. It just had the reg and presumably CTP renewed last month. In Vic reg+CTP is probably around $500 for a bike of this type and cancelling the reg 1 month after renewal would get a pro-rata refund, probably something of the order of $400 or so (there's always fees.....). In any event does anyone from NSW know if the same would happen there ?? (I'm thinking more of the CTP, being by private companies up there). I would expect so, but would like confirmation. The reason....well, it's a negotiation point on the price + he won't need to get a RWC. TIA

You've got someone interested in the injectors + someone else interested in the plenum. I'd be interested in the throttle bodies (but must include ALL linkages, etc). So depending on price we might be able to work a deal here......

Ummm, some pretty important details. Sounds like some clearances were not correct and that, possibly combined with low or no start-up oil pressure has caused a bearing or bearings to pick-up. I really don't think you've got any choice but to at least drop the sump and check the crank and bearings. Should be no nead to remove the head. Of course all this assumes that something really unuasual hasn't occured (eg seized starter....extremely unlikely).

You should not try any further to turn the motor over, by whatever means - you'll only do damage. It will be a case of unbolting the crank and doing it by the numbers......measure all the bearing clearances using something like plasti-gauge. Well, thats what I'd do. Measuring the bearing clearances directly is the only way to be sure, AFAIC. Another possibility is that you have a 'tight' thrust face, have you measured the end float on the crank ??

Sure sign of a blown head gasket, I'm afraid.

If you have no noise in 4th then odds-on its one or all of the countershaft bearings that are on the way out. When in 4th gear the main and input shafts are effectively locked together and there's is virtually no load on the countershaft (thus reduced or no noise from defective countershaft bearings). In all other gears, load passes through the countershaft....and so you get noise. With these gearboxes it's usually the countershaft centre support bearing that gives way first. Seen more than one or two of these gb's where the cage had disintegrated and most of the balls had migrated to other parts of the gearbox.

I assume this is a typo: CrMo steels are AISI 4xxx series (eg 4130, 4340). 1045 is a medium carbon steel (0.45% carbon) with few other alloying additions, although it's perfectly suitable for flywheels.....I've run one in Z for many years

Don't try to force the pistons back. More than likely they are no longer 'square' in the bore and if you try to force them back you could damage the caliper bore and have even bigger problems. Best thing to do is to put a piece of wood of suitable thickness between the pistons and the disk (also in the same place for the other pair of pistons - obviously thicker). That will prevent the pistons from coming out completely. Close the bleeder and gently pressurise the brake system using the pedal. Eventually the pistons should free up and come 'square' again. When they do, stop, open the bleeder, and then push the pistons back keeping them absolutely square to the bore. If the pistons do come out of the bore past the seal (you might hear a 'pop' if they do). Don't panic, although brake fluid will go everywhere, it's simply a matter of pushing them back square as above. Once back in position, remember to put the dust seals back into postion, then bleed the system as normal and wash off any brake fluid ASAP esp from painted parts. And of course remember - don't bleed the system without the pads in place. Good luck Edit: if you have any other brake pads removed (ie from other calipers), make sure you put them back before making any attempt to move the pistons in the 'problem' caliper.

Looks like a V-band attachment flange.

CSP311 is very early Silvia: http://members.ozemail.com.au/~finden/DSOA-SILVIA.html S30 is Nissan model series speak for 240Z/260Z/280Z (note: NOT 280ZX which is S130 model series)

Check the oil level first....might be overfull, although if the breather tube is connected correctly that shouldn't happen. If it is a leak, there are 3 places - front cover, output (drive) shaft seal or input shaft seal. That assumes of course that the housing isn't cracked or somthing unusual like that. Best thing to do is to totally degrease and clean the area, run it for a few k's and then check for the source of the leak.