SteveL

Even if the crank fits there are no rods available for that setup that I'm aware of. You'd need rods that are shorter than the RB25 type...don't think any such thing exists.

The reg doesn't transfer interstate anyway. You take the plates off, go to Vicroads and cancel the reg. Write out a receipt for the guy in Qld, which includes the original Vic Reg # and the VIN. The Qld reg people should be able to check the history of the car from the national database using the VIN.

Your lost. All those Yahoo auctions were for ignitor packs (ignition system)........nothing to do with the injectors.

They all have 12 port intake, and red-top ECCS intake is very similar to silver type (I've owned and directly compared both types, FWIW).

No, and head flow is very similar to the R32 type.

There are 2 types of red top RB20DET: NICS - already discussed here, fitted to some Jap spec R31's from 1986 to about mid-1987, ~140kW at the flywheel. ECCS - fitted to some Jap spec R31's (1987 ->), that is it replaced the NICS version. ~150kW at the flywheel. Manifold arrangement is very similar to the R32 type (no variable inlet), but other detail differences included non-BB turbo.

I currently have an R33 alternator (90A) on my 89 R32 GTR. Bolted straight up. I also currently have an R32 GTR alternator on the RB30E in an 87 R31 Silhouette. The GTR alternator replaced an RB20DET alternator I had on the R31 for a long time (bearings have gone). Again, bolted straight up. That's not say every alternator is directly interchangeable. For example some Oz spec R31's came with a Bosch alternator and the connection is different for those compared with Jap spec alternators (eg Hitachi).

Most likely countershaft related, and probably a support bearing close to failure. In 4th gear the input shaft and main shaft are effectively locked together and there is virtually zero load on the countershaft, , which could explain the quiet running in that gear. OTOH, in all other gears, load is passed through the countershaft. Since it was 3rd gear that first started making noises, I'd be guessing the countershaft bearing in the centre support plate is suspect. This is a geabox out job and you'd best stop driving the car ASAP otherwise you risk big damage if the bearing goes completely (assuming that is the cause - regardless I'd still recommend to cease driving until the cause is discovered). As a first check you could drop the oil and look for metal particles, particularly on the drain plug magnet. If your lucky and can get away with just a bearing change, your probably looking at $50 for the bearing plus labour, of course. IMHO, in these situations all the main bearings should be changed, which would be $200-$250 at a guess. Of course, while it's down you might want to look at doing the synchros.....depends on the wallet. As to DIY....depends on your mechanical skills and tools + time.

If you get a fine in the mail, first thing to do is to go to the camera enforcment office (or whatever it's called these days) and see the photograph(s). That will tell the story.

If the lights were amber when you entered the intersection there should be no fine. The lights are designed to photograph anyone that enters the intersection (ie crosses the white line) once the lights turn red.

The problem you have is that the new split dump is designed for a stock RB2x turbo with the wastegate dump valve built into the turbo exhaust housing. The turbo you show in the middle photo is not a stock RB2x turbo (at least none that I've ever seen....and that's more than a few). Your turbo has the wastegate dump valve built into your existing dump...or that's the way it appears (in fact looking at the photo closely it appears you have some sort of aftermarket dump attached somehow to the original cast iron dump flange)....but it's a bit hard to see). In any event, the new split dump simply doesn't have provision for the wastgate valve arrangement you currently have.....and there's no way to fit it (easily).

Anything can be done....in theory, but wouldn't be a backyard job in this case, at least AFAIC (eg alignment of the wastegate valve).

The only turbo I've seen with the waste gate in the dump was from a Commode VLT (ie RB30ET). Stock RB2x turbo's have the waste gate built into the turbo exhaust housing. The answer to your question is that the new dump pipe you have won't work with that turbo......

Injectors are powered more-or-less directly from the battery, usually only via a fusible link, but not via a relay. IOW, the injectors are constantly connected to +12V (ie supply is not switched on via the ign switch).

**SOLD**

From memory the other 2 connectors are for relays (1 x ign, 1 x EFI....I think). Photo would help. If they are blue (or green ??) and have 4 pins that's probably what they are.

This could be part of your problem. The N1 pump flows less at even given rpm than the stock pump. For a street driven car, the stock pump is the better option esp if the engine is modified and will be expected to cope with extended idle circumstances (eg stop/start traffic).

The starter solenoid is triggered by the ign switch 'START' position, but there is a connection to the ECU to tell it that engine start is happening (IOW, the starter isn't triggered by the ECU). Ground for the starter is via the battery -ve connection to the block (thick cable connected from the negative battery terminal to the block....or should be).

No reason why not, but suggest you look at the more sophisticated end of the market which is Gas Research out Hallam way. More expensive, but worth it. I assume you mean LPG not CNG (natural gas). It's possible to use CNG, but the tank pressures are far higher and it's not common in Oz. Besides the Govt rebate is only for LPG AFAIC.

Check out http://z31.com/ These cars are fairly heavy and stock have the same output as VLT (150kW at the flywheel). Be warned that they are renowned for spontaneously bursting into flames.....heat buid-up in the 'V' of the engine causes fuel leaks and, well, instant BBQ. Nissan did a recall in the US to fix the problem, but never admitted to anything in Oz even tho many owners have experienced 'the problem'. Gearbox in the stock Z31T is more-or-less the same as RB20DET type, but fortunately the gearbox in RWD Navara is as strong as the RB25DET type and will bolt up. An option for upgrade is VG30DET from Cima....190kW stock, but might not be allowed for your class. Suspension setup is largely the same as Datto 1600 and 280ZX (+ R30 Skyline, etc)....semi-trailing arms at the rear plus mac struts up front.

I have the genuine type N1 vents in my GTR bar. They are held in place by 4 (each) spring clips which are permanently attached to the vent. Basically they are pushed into from the front and auotomatically 'lock' in place. Getting them out from the front without damaging the clips, the bar or the vents themselves would be very difficult, if not impossible. Sorry to say, but it's best to remove the bar and then release the clips from the back. OTOH, if you have aftermarket vents, they will probably be bonded in place and the situation will be worse (ie impossible to get out with out damaging them or the bar).

Answer = none of the above. NICS 'red top' RB20DET was used in early R31 Skylines and Z31 200ZR models. It was the 'first' RB20DET, but was replaced in about mid-1987 with the 'red top' ECCS type. R32's use the 'silver top' ECCS RB20DET....there was no NICS version. A31 Cefiro's also use a version of the 'silver top' RB20DET engine.

The device in the first 2 photos is related to the radio antenna system in the R32's which use the heater grid in the rear window as part of the antenna. The stock front windscreen also has a grid, although not as extensive. I suspect the box is some sort of filtering electronics.

The R33 NA box is physically the same size and strength as the RB20 turbo type (which is essentially the same as the RB30E type). Haven't seen an R34 NA type but would be surprised if it wasn't more-or-less the same as the R33 NA. The MX7 looks very similar to the R33 turbo 'box, but has a mechanical speedo drive which is pretty easy to spot. Someone posted side-by-side pictures of the R33 turbo 'box with the RB20 type in another thread, so perhaps do a search. It's true the RB20 and RB30E gearboxes have some markings on them but they aren't PN's. Even if I gave you the PN's I doubt it's going to help much.

Nissan gearboxes don't have any PN's anywhere on them. When I get the chance to boot up FAST I'll get some PN's for you.