SteveL

It will be fine.

They are for relays, ign and possibly main EFI power or fuel pump (can't quite remember for the R33, but definately relays).

Well according to FAST the PN's for the bearings are: Outer: 43215-01P00, which has been superceded by 43215-19P00 Inner: 43210-21000 These are for a Z31 turbo, whether they will fit your R31 arms is another matter.....IOW, don't blame me. Suggest you take these PN's to a bearing specialist as they have catalogues that cross-reference manufacturers spare part number with standard bearing ID's.

I paid around the $150 mark a few months ago, but that was trade.

Strictly speaking whoever you are buying it from is supposed to supply the RWC. This can be a negotiation point, but at least make the purchase conditional on an initial RWC inspection.

90A

All the one's I've seen/used have been 2deg per graduation. The 'grey' ones look the HKS type I have on my GTR. They may not look 'pretty', but will do the same job.

I'd be surprised if it didn't - I have an R33 starter on my R32 GTR.

A plain bush is a type of bearing.

No their not. The clutch throw-out bearing (which is a thrust bearing) is on the clutch fork as you say. The spigot bearing supports the end of the gearbox input shaft and is pressed into the back end of the crank.

Clutch master needs replacing. Get it done ASAP as brake fluid is a good paint stripper....

Perhaps post up a pic if you can. Most Nissan injectors have a small plastic cap ('pintle cap') at the manifold end of the injector. Part of it's purpose is to provide a sealing surface against the injector to manifold o-ring. They can crack and fall apart with age and heat, but are easily replaced.

Check your e-mail.

Yeh, figured it was a typo, it's all good

No, 40 thou (0.040") is approximately 1mm. Actually 1mm = 0.03937007874"

If you mean the plastic pintle cap, replacements can be bought cheaply from injector specialists.

The dowels are removed and the whole surface machined. The amount removed depends on the depth of the wear damage. There will be a factory recommended max amount to be machined off and with cast iron flywheels its best to be a little cautious

Think if it as the device that provides the cold engine fast idle equivalent of a carby car with a choke. You need to have it connected.

Yes it's a steering tie-rod end and the rubber dust boot has disintegrated. That will have allowed dirt/dust/water into the ball joint causing wear, corrosion,etc., which might be the cause of your problems. Best get it replaced ASAP and inspect all the other suspension/steering parts at the same time. Sorry no idea of the cost.

It was Gavin Strongman who is a member of the NDSOC, I believe. Not everyone wants an 'animal gtr'. His car - like mine - is pretty standard, and that's the way we want it. Also he didn't get beaten in real terms. His car actually had the fastest time around Calder (short track), but he was given a handicap based on his 400m time to make the time 'comparable' with the other cars.

Your mechanic obviously lives on the French Riviera and flies here 1st class just to service your car.......

PN 14411-AA403 is an R34 GTR Vspec II turbo fitted from November 2000 The original R34 GTR N1 turbo has the PN 14411-AA401 (January 1999 to October 1999) and the -AA403 is listed as a direct replacement (there was also an 'in between' -AA402)

14411-06U00 = R32 GTR N1 turbo from about august 1991.

R34 GTR is the only model with factory 6-speed.

Yes they look fine - centre electrode looks dry and a reasonable colour (although that can vary with fuel and octane boosters, for example) and definately not oily. Also they all look more or less the same, so cylinders are seeing the same mixture, etc. The threads look a bit oily, but that can come from other causes like leaky rocker cover gaskets. That said you say you have white smoke, and if that's the case, you have some oil burning, but not really sufficient to show anything much on the plugs.