SteveL

You've contradicted yourself a little between the first and 2nd para's. Bearings and gaskets are certainly available, but synchros for any GTR gearbox built before about 1997 require fitting a bunch of other 'update' parts including gears, coupling rings, sleeves, etc, etc....for 3rd and 4th gears alone this ends up costing around $2K just for the parts. I found this out around 2 years ago when I re-built an R32 GTR gearbox. I know the Nissan parts people fairly well, and at the time I had them chase this right through Nissan in Japan. That said, from time-to-time I still see people on this forum claim to have got their GTR gearbox rebuilt with new synchros. I'd really like to know where they got the parts, but I suspec they might not be getting all that they paid for.

Just use a quality oil designed for mechanical LSD's, an example would be Castrol LSX90 or 85W-140, but any 'name brand' LSD oil will do the job.

Yes you can, the shield is just metal braid which can be soldered. Simply stripping back and twisting together the halves plus solder will give sufficient electrical conductivity. The same with the core, but must be kept electrically isolated from the shield. Of course make sure the joiint is protected by tape or shring wrap, etc. I don't know of anywhere that sells this type of thing, but the AFM signal wire on most Nissan's is shielded, so just cut out a length from a wreck.

A new resistor pack is about $150 from Nissan. There's only one car I've found that uses the same resistor pack and that's the Cima from about 1989 using the VG30DET. Of course finding one of those is even harder. The good news is that R30 Skylines and 280ZX had a resistor pack that can be adapted for the purpose. The connector is different, but if you can find a wreck with a complete loom, you can get both halves of the connector and adapt it to to the RB26 loom. The best places to get things like this are self serve wreckers. If you get stuck I have a spare R30 pack with connector.

YHM

Great help , might as well add break and enter to the list of problems. I'm not even in Qld and it took me about 5 secs to find this: http://www.fairtrading.qld.gov.au/OFT/OFTW...BA?OpenDocument "Before committing to having the car repaired check the terms of payment. If you are unable to pay and haven't come to any financial arrangement, the repairer has the legal right to keep your car until you can pay. This is called a "Possessory Lien". In some cases the repairer can also charge a storage fee." It will depend on what the 'financial arrangment' your friend has with the repairer. You friend might qualify for free legal aid given his circumstances so suggest talking to the fair trading department as well as look at some of the available legal services.

Obviously not displaying a valid sticker is not in that category, but we live in a state where doing a few k's over the speed limit is regarded almost as a firing squad offence, so there can be no real 'surprise' in it for you......at the end of the day you should have known. You also do realise that you have the option to appeal in writing over the fine and if you have a reasonable excuse the fine might be waived ?? In any event you seem to want to have a bit each way on this. I've seen you and others post here regarding getting 'smoky old bombs, etc' off our roads, and this at is least one of the purposes of stings like this along with the other things I mentioned. AFAIC that's a good thing and always will be. Unfortunately, yes, some will also be pinged for minor offences, but that's the luck of the draw. You can't seriously be suggesting that they shouldn't have random inspections ??.....think of the alternative: annual inspections which might also include some sort of emissions inspection if the EPA have their way (it's under serious discussion according to my sources). I repeat, if you knowingly go out in the roads with illegal mods and get pinged for it, go have a look in a mirror for someone to blame......

They were there when I wen't past this morning at about 9:30am and still there (although toned down a bit) at about 2:30pm. There were a lot of cars parked up on the nature strip next to the railway line. As for being a waste of time, sorry but I disagree. If they get some of the seriously unroadworthy cars off the road, plus unregistered cars and unlicensed drivers - not to mentioned the boozed and drugged up - that can only be a good thing. Remember that the alternative to random inspections like this is annual inspections like in NSW......I know which I'd prefer. Also if your car has lots of illegal mods, you can't seriously complain if you get pinged....that's the risk you take. Edit: This has appeared on the Herald-Sun website: http://www.heraldsun.news.com.au/common/st...55E1702,00.html Now wait for the hysterics from the VACC......

It doesn't have to be standard, but if the mods are things that would normally "attract attention" or otherwise outside Vicroads guidlines the engineer is unlikely to be happy. Unless things have changed in the last couple of years, intrusion bars don't need to be welded in.....mine are bolted in and engineering approved (89 R32 GTR).

As far as I'm aware all RB30 powered cars (ie R31 Skyline and VL commode) used computer controlled auto. Carb'd GQ Patrol also had 4-speed auto which is probably vac controlled, but I don't know enough about it to say whether it could be used for your app. Another alternative is the 4-speed auto from a S2 R30 Skyline (mid '85 to 86). That auto is vac controlled and had a manually switched overdrive. It might be possible to swap the RB30 auto bellhousing for the L6 bell-housing as in most other aspects the trans are very similar.

ALL 260Z's used long-nose R200. ALL 240Z's used long-nose R180.

No, Rb25 and RB20 have the same port shape and the exhaust manifolds are identical, more or less. It's RB30 that has round exhaust ports.

It's fine. I just buy standard rotors and have them slotted by a friend...much cheaper and exactly the same result.

No that's not normal for an engine at idle and the oil at normal operating temp, as per the OP. For a stock oil pump and engine in good nick, an R32 GTR should have oil pressure of about 20psi at idle. The N1 oil pump has an increased spring rate on the relief valve to boost oil pressure, but at idle that should only give an increase of maybe 5psi at most, and certainly 92psi is way too much. Frankly I'm a little sceptical at such a high reading, esp at idle and would want to have it triple checked using a _calibrated_ gauge, but the cause is probably related to the relief valve and that needs to be checked.

If it wasn't doing it before the tune then it _has_ to be something your mechanic has done and he needs to fix it. Stock ign timing for an R32 GTR is 20degBTDC, so 22deg is not too far out. I'd suggest that your mechanic needs to look at the work he's done and if he's any good he should be able to identify the things that would cause or contribute to the problem.

I have a complete manifold in good nick. The spout is not available seperately, but a machine shop might be able to make a suitable replacement. In terms of the sump, etc, if it helps these are the PN's for the 200ZR rear bowl RB20DET sump and pick up: 11110-20P00 RB20DET Oil Pan (Rear Sump) 15050-20P03 RB20DET Oil Pickup 15059-V5001 RB20DET Oil Pickup O-Ring I'm told the sump is about $300 from Nissan. Z32 yoke is the same as RB25, so try a few Z wreckers. External fuel pump - probably best to get something new with decent capacity depending on your power aims. Surge tank - difficult thing is where to put it, most off-the-shelf tanks are too bulky for the limited space in a Z. Mine is custom made and mounted behind the RHR quarter panel trim.

From the R32 GTR factory WS manual: Fuel tank _nominal_ capacity = 72L Intake air capacity = 5.5L As I said, the air capacity is an allowance for vapour, expansion, etc and is deducted from the _nominal_ capacity of the tank, which gives a theoretical max for liquid of 66.5L. Again, some will get perhaps slightly more, some less, which gazza750 has just proven and is certainly my experience.

To be absolutely clear, the tank can _theoretically_ hold 72L, but the factory allows for about a 6L air/vapour space so the tank can never be completely filled. 65L is about the average practical fill for a GTR tank, but some will see more and some will see less.

Fuel tank takes about 65L. I get around 400km from full until the warning light comes on. That's around town driving, mostly.

There's no confusion about the diff type.....R200. No such thing as an 'R220' AFAIC. The factory GTR WS manual lists the rear diff as R200 and FAST confirms as well. Also AFAIC the factory R32 GTR LSD centre is 2 way.

I don't know where you get your info, but Duncan is correct, R32 GTR uses R200 diff and the standard LSD centre is mechanical (ie clutch pack). I've had the one out of my GTR, plus inspected the centre and it's 2-way (most definately stock - believe me I've seen the inside of more than 1 or 2....) R32 GTSt also uses R200, but has a viscous LSD. I've never heard of such a thing as an 'R220' diff used in any Nissan, but there is an R230 type that is used in Z32 turbo.

No worries - I confirmed in FAST to be sure. From memory one end has a metal washer molded in (the 'fatter' end in your photo I think). That end sits under the head of the screw. I used a battery powered electric drill with an adjustable clutch, plus a long phillips head bit to do up the screws. The clutch was on a low setting, but did the job, although I found I had to go over them again a few times as they compressed. I also used a criss-cross tightening pattern.

Yes, and they are the correct part.

No its doesn't - bolt pattern is different. Manifold has to be modified or an adaptor plate used.

working again